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Front lower control arm replacement

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    Front lower control arm replacement

    I tried searching but didn’t find anything relevant.

    Are there any tricks or suggested ways to remove the 21mm bolt from the top of the subframe securing the control arm? I can just barely get a box wrench on the bolt, but I think it’s just spinning. I don’t really see how to make enough space to get the 6mm Allen wrench on the bolt and a 21mm wrench on the nut to get it loose.

    Do I need to remove the sway bar to make more space?
    it’s very tight in there. Any suggestions? Thanks!

    This is on a ‘02 M3 if it matters.

    #2
    Pickle fork or some other seperator type of tool with a long lever like a pickle fork, or something that derives its leverage from a screw action (hex head). Bathing it in PB/liquid wrench ahead of time or hitting with fire would help, but maybe not fire since there's a rubber boot, and the top is inaccessable I think.

    Getting the nut off was the easy for me. I have a 1/2" drive flex head.
    Last edited by Tbonem3; 04-28-2023, 04:08 PM.
    DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
    /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
    More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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      #3
      Are you talking about the inner bolt? Should be pretty straight forward.

      Might be a useful video:



      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #4
        This is also a very good video.

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          #5
          Originally posted by t44tq View Post
          I can just barely get a box wrench on the bolt, but I think it’s just spinning.
          If the ball joint spins then place a floor jack under it and jack up a little to press the tapered shaft tight and it should not spin. Once the nut is off, use a large fork to separate it from the frame.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
            Pickle fork or some other seperator type of tool with a long lever like a pickle fork, or something that derives its leverage from a screw action (hex head). Bathing it in PB/liquid wrench ahead of time or hitting with fire would help, but maybe not fire since there's a rubber boot, and the top is inaccessable I think.

            Getting the nut off was the easy for me. I have a 1/2" drive flex head.
            Not the ball joint at the suspension upright, the big nut on top of the subframe.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by sapote View Post
              If the ball joint spins then place a floor jack under it and jack up a little to press the tapered shaft tight and it should not spin. Once the nut is off, use a large fork to separate it from the frame.
              Again, not the ball joint at the suspension upright- that one is easy. I’m talking about the big bolt that has a 6mm Allen in the center and takes a 21mm nut, on top of the subframe. Very limited access due to the sway bar, power steering lines, etc.

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                #8
                Originally posted by t44tq View Post

                Again, not the ball joint at the suspension upright- that one is easy. I'm talking about the big bolt that has a 6mm Allen in the center and takes a 21mm nut, on top of the subframe. Very limited access due to the sway bar, power steering lines, etc.
                The inner ball joint is a tapered shaft ball joint. So putting a jack underneath it will push the taper into the subframe locking it into place.

                I've been able to get an allen and a wrench in there, just need to get creative. I think I got a stubby allen and let it spin until hitting something so I didn't have to counterhold it myself.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                  #9
                  I just make my life easy...drop the front subframe. And really no way to torque the inner bolt with the subframe in the car. Also a good time to inspect the engine mounts.

                  Shameless plug - I have a pair of OE mounts if you need some.

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                    #10
                    Craftsman 1/2" Drive Flex Head Quick Release Teardrop Ratchet with a short socket. To counter hold the ball joint, one of the reinforcement plate bolts can be threaded in from the bottom of the ball joint if I remember correctly.​

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by t44tq View Post

                      Again, not the ball joint at the suspension upright- that one is easy. I’m talking about the big bolt that has a 6mm Allen in the center and takes a 21mm nut, on top of the subframe. Very limited access due to the sway bar, power steering lines, etc.
                      Only ball joint that has the 6mm Allen hole; why a normal bolt needs the Allen head?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Slideways View Post
                        Craftsman 1/2" Drive Flex Head Quick Release Teardrop Ratchet with a short socket. To counter hold the ball joint, one of the reinforcement plate bolts can be threaded in from the bottom of the ball joint if I remember correctly.​
                        If threading the plate bolt from underneath works, then I'm golden- I'll try that, thank you.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by eacmen View Post

                          The inner ball joint is a tapered shaft ball joint. So putting a jack underneath it will push the taper into the subframe locking it into place.

                          I've been able to get an allen and a wrench in there, just need to get creative. I think I got a stubby allen and let it spin until hitting something so I didn't have to counterhold it myself.


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                          After reading this a couple times, now I understand what you're talking about- again, I'll try it. Thank you.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by sapote View Post

                            Only ball joint that has the 6mm Allen hole; why a normal bolt needs the Allen head?
                            Sorry- I didn't get what you were talking about until eacmen explained it to me- thank you.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Check out my rod bearing DIY in the DIY section. I cover front suspension refresh, too.

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