Cylinder leakdown higher after engine rebuild?

[eacmen]

Did you reach out to Lang?


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[Chanman1029]

Crosshatching from the machining process.

Cool, I atleast know what that looks like haha.

Will get back here in a few hours and post my findings

[Slideways]

yes! I’m actually about to pick up a bore scope rental from autozone as soon as I’m done with dinner, hopefully it will be good enough quality to see. What kinds of things should I look for? Tbh I’m not sure what “normal” cylinder wall wear looks like. Obviously a score would be very clear of something wrong, but what else should I look for?

Crosshatching from the machining process.

[Chanman1029]

Are you able to bore scope the cylinders? That way you can get an idea of how everything looks. Hopefully the crosshatching is still there from the machining; otherwise, you're looking for glazing or scoring.

yes! I’m actually about to pick up a bore scope rental from autozone as soon as I’m done with dinner, hopefully it will be good enough quality to see. What kinds of things should I look for? Tbh I’m not sure what “normal” cylinder wall wear looks like. Obviously a score would be very clear of something wrong, but what else should I look for?

[Slideways]

Are you able to bore scope the cylinders? That way you can get an idea of how everything looks. Hopefully the crosshatching is still there from the machining; otherwise, you're looking for glazing or scoring.

[Chanman1029]

Hey all,

some of you may remember my post regarding my oil light coming on after reaching operating temp, however when I would check the oil level after shutdown, it was only slightly below the max mark once all oil drained back to the pan. During my investigations, I saw a noticeable amount of metallic material in the oil filter housing, so I thought maybe the oil filter was getting a little over worked, so even though only at 1300 miles on the oil, I decided to change the oil.

Quick back story: this engine was fully rebuilt just under 3k miles ago, New main and rod bearing, CP pistons w/ rings, all machine work done by lang racing. First oil interval was 1200 miles with 15w-50 conventional break in oil, then 1300 on 10w-60, that oil last 1300 run was the oil I had just drained in the above statement.

Ok, so the reason I rebuilt the motor was due to oil consumption. After doing a leakdown test prior to the rebuild my results were
Cylinder 1: 3% heard at oil cap
Cylinder 2: 4% heard at oil cap
Cylinder 3: 2% heard at oil cap
Cylinder 4: 2% heard at oil cap
Cylinder 5: 3.5% heard at oil cap
Cylinder 6: 3.5% heard at oil cap

I figured this wasn’t really abnormal and concluded the consumption must have been from valve seals. Had the motor rebuilt, and here we are back at the current situation. When I saw all the metallic material in the OFH, I decided to drain it and take an oil sample like i always do. The report came back stating,

“The oil filter clogging can be a reason for the low oil light, but we wouldn't rule out oil
consumption due to a cylinder-area issue. Chrome (piston rings) and iron (cylinders and other steel parts)
nearly doubled after a similar run as last time. Increasing oil consumption is a common symptom of a
ring/cylinder-area issue. Ticking can be another. You might consider a compression or leak down test due
to the wear. The other wear metals look okay, overall, but now aluminum (pistons) is reading at its highest
level”

I did a leakdown test yesterday, and my results were all consistently higher than before:
Cylinder 1: 4%
Cylinder 2: 5%
Cylinder 3: 6%
Cylinder 4: 5%
Cylinder 5: 5%
Cylinder 6: 5% All cylinders heard at oil cap.

My question: How long do piston rings take to seat? Do you think those materials in the oil are normal for a new motor with less than 3k miles? Or do you think I actually have a ring issue, in which case I’m screwed, bc as good as everyone says he is, I highly doubt lang will stand behind any of their work as their website states zero warranty on any work they do.