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Vanos time?

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    #46
    If loosening the hub bolts didn't allow you to slide the pin in at all, then the splined gear has to come out. Once the splined gear is out, the cam can freely be rotated to align perfectly with the camshaft timing pin. In your picture, it is off by a lot and if you have reached the full range of the splined gear, it cannot be rotated any farther to align with the bridge. Remember, the cam is splined on the inside, so the cam has to be positioned first at TDC perfectly before inserting the splined gear. Aftermarket timing tool isn't really the issue here.

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      #47
      Thanks, I will take it apart tomorrow, and try again.

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        #48
        Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
        Ok, so I adjusted the timing. I got to tdc, loose the 3 hub bolts, then rotated crank shaft, loosen the other 3 bolts, fully retard camshaft turning counter clock wise, put alignment bridge on, adjusted intake camshaft , dowel went in smoothly. Now for the exhaust when I turn it counter clock wise., the dowel didn't go in, the camshaft needed to go coo terclock wise a little more, but the camshaft couldnt go any more. So I put everything back together and Now I'm getting code p0014 b camshaft position timing, over advanced or system performance bank 1. So my timing still off?
        I see a few issues in the process.
        1. It seems you did the timing for the Intake first, and then the Exhaust. But it didn't mentioned when the Intake hub bolts were bolted down before the crank was turned again to set the exhaust timing. I hope you didn't turn the crank while the hub bolts were loose as this can lead to pistons hitting the valves.
        2. It didn't mention if the vanos was removed or not. Once the hub bolts were loosen, the timing CANNOT be set reliably without removing the vanos and pre-tension the hub bolts. The purpose of having the hub bolts pre-tension is to prevent backlash error in the system.
        3. It didn't mentioned if the cams timing were verified by turning the crank a few turns and set at TDC compression. Too much timing off can cause bent valves and so the final cam timing check must be done before running the engine.

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          #49
          I did turn the crank a few times and got It to Tdc and i put the pin in the crank cover. I didn't turn the crank while the hub bolts were loose. So I gotta have to do the exhaust side first? I didn't remove the vanos.

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            #50
            Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
            I did turn the crank a few times and got It to Tdc and i put the pin in the crank cover. I didn't turn the crank while the hub bolts were loose. So I gotta have to do the exhaust side first? I didn't remove the vanos.
            Did you read the procedure of doing the timing? I had posted my version of the steps needed so search around, but the well known Beisan procedure is workable too.
            Read the procedure and ask questions.

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              #51
              Ok, I will search for it.. Also what 24mm wrench, brand. Do you guys use to rotate the camshaft.

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                #52
                Pretty much any 24mm wrench will work. Brand is not important.

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                  #53
                  I got a husky 24 mm. And it's too thick to fit on the camshaft.

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                    #54
                    Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
                    I got a husky 24 mm. And it's too thick to fit on the camshaft.
                    I used a craftsman one. Or grab a cheap one and grind it down.

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                      #55
                      Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
                      I got a husky 24 mm. And it's too thick to fit on the camshaft.
                      The trick is to remove the Vanos, loosen the hub bolts, remove the splined shaft first then it’s easy to turn the cam. But set the crank at TDC compression first.

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                        #56
                        I did the timing today, it seems ok . No check engine light, and I shut off the car a few times. So far so good, other thing I notice was I think some rain water got in the engine, had valve cover off. Good wasn't closed all the way. It rained heavy, so I got the creamy color oil.. Or of its the worse scenario, head gasket is no good. Im going to flush and do a oil change amd see if i get that creamy color again.

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                          #57
                          Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
                          I did the timing today, it seems ok . No check engine light, and I shut off the car a few times. So far so good, other thing I notice was I think some rain water got in the engine, had valve cover off. Good wasn't closed all the way. It rained heavy, so I got the creamy color oil.. Or of its the worse scenario, head gasket is no good. Im going to flush and do a oil change amd see if i get that creamy color again.
                          Rain can't get in unless the cabin filter tray was removed.

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                            #58
                            The tray was removed

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                              #59
                              I also noticed since I adjusted the timing. My mpg went up.

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                                #60
                                Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
                                The tray was removed
                                In a hurry just install the tray back without tightening the screws and this should avoid water get in with the hood closed.

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