Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cam timing tool options

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    Cam timing tool options

    Question about cam timing tool options.

    Assembling a full genuine kit would be spendy.

    I see this kit from KTC which is also rather expensive($344 after tax+shipping): https://shop.ktcautotools.com/produc...alignment-tool

    I then found this kit on Amazon, much more cost effective: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...M4Z0JYGM&psc=1
    It gives pause since I've "heard" only use the BMW version. for what reason is this? the tool seems quite simple.

    Then I was browsing the used section here and found this KTC tool previously sold: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...l-and-shim-kit
    Well what the heck? it's identical to the one on Amazon at the moment. Anyone know what's going on here, if they used to be the same and KTC changed it now?

    No more rental here on the forum. Would love to hear everyone's insight here on these tools and best course of action.

    Tags: None
    #2
    Those last 2 look identical to the Schwaben one from ECS/Turner as well. Some have said timing is so essential that you only want to use Genuine BMW. In the end, when setting timing, you're just lining things up that should be parallel and perpendicular. They’re simple but specialized tools. Your tool would have to be a special kind of messed up to cause an issue.

    That said, if I were to buy timing tools again, I would just order the Genuine BMW bridge, 1 pin, and the crank locking pin. The other parts in the kit were not necessary and the storage box takes up more room than necessary.

    Comment

      #3
      I'm getting ready to finally do my Beisan Vanos work and am also looking for reviews/recommendations. Thanks!

      Comment

        #4
        The genuine tool has a very tight tolerance compared to the aftermarket ones. That being said, quite a few people have used the aftermarket ones and have not had an issue. Even when you rotate the engine after tighten down the hubs, the genuine tool and pin might not go in as smooth or at all without nudging the cam ever so slightly. Certain installation instructions allow the bridge to be slightly lifted on one side as long as it is not beyond a certain spec, so there can be a tiny bit of variability in the tool.

        One of the more important things during the VANOS install is the make sure both intake and exhaust pistons are fully bottomed out in the VANOS unit. This might be more important than if the bridge is genuine or not.

        The genuine bridge and TDC pin are not that expensive from BMW. The other tools that come in the aftermarket kit are not necessary. I'd buy or rent the genuine bridge and TDC pin.
        Last edited by Slideways; 05-25-2023, 02:00 PM.
        • Likes 2

        Comment

          #5
          I have a few s54s so I'm considering buying the genuine tool. I'm not a shop so I wouldn't be using it all the time. Would you guys be interested in renting it out?

          Comment

            #6
            I had to cut the OEM crank lock pin. Not sure if it was the slightly thicker CSF radiator.

            The OEM tools is about $150, no reason not to go with that.

            I had a tool I would loan to others...but it never came back.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
              I had to cut the OEM crank lock pin. Not sure if it was the slightly thicker CSF radiator.

              The OEM tools is about $150, no reason not to go with that.

              I had a tool I would loan to others...but it never came back.
              Most likely. BMW has a cut down version for the Z4M due to the front crossmember.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
                Question about cam timing tool options.
                If the timing is currently good, then you don't need the bridge tool to set the timing after removing the hubs or cam related parts.
                You just need to measure the cams timing holes now for a reference, then use the data to duplicate the same timing later.
                I selected drill bit size that fitted snug to the hole, then laid a metal carpenter square cross the top of the two cams, then measure the gap between the vertical drill shaft and the square using a caliper at certain height.
                The cam hole pins are not perfectly square to the head top: the Intake should be slightly retarded and the Exhaust is slightly advanced from the vertical direction (relative to the head and not to the earth). Don't know why the engineers didn't choose to machine the cam holes perfectly vertical to the head, that would be more easier and a carpenter square is perfect as a tool.

                • Likes 1

                Comment

                  #9
                  appreciate the comments, everyone. will order the genuine bridge.

                  Comment

                  Previous template Next
                  Working...
                  X