Saving a S54 From Parting Out.

[Anri]

Every engine build I perform I always take photos
for documentations as proof of what has been done
to the engine. May be one day the customer wants
to sell the car/engine and its nice to have detail pictures
during the rebuild

At the moment, there was a slight miscommunication between the
customer and my end goal and result of how I see this engine rebuild.
But the customer is after very low budget which I was not aware of.
I have been told from the beginning "lets rebuild it" but under this statement
the meaning is very very subjective....In this specific engine how could I go
with exact number in case of finding so many issues ?
Were I can save money to a customer whiteout sacrificing reliability
I am all for but there are some areas were you can't save money.

On the fly, I have been asked to cut on labor and parts to keep
the budget rebuild low. I had New timing chain, and all
3 guides New ready to be installed but instead I was forced
to re-use the existing one. So here we go...

Its not that its not going to work but the hi quality standard of
engine rebuild I maintain and re-using the old guides its a bit odd
don't you guys agree ?

The New parts are going back on the shelf ready for the next S54
I have ready on the pipe line after this one for rebuild.


Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

On std engine the parts such as pistons, rods I believe
are class/matched. For example the new/old piston came
from another engine was 4gr heavier than the pistons from
this engine.

Next S54 rebuild I will remind my left to test that. I need to mark the
pistons to rods and after the parts are meticulously clean I need
to scale them and see how they are matched.

Anyway the original pistons and rods are balanced. The
new/old piston like I mentioned was 4gr heavier and took
quite a lot of material. The proper area to take material off is
under the crown using not too deep drilling holes.

So now pistons are 360 360 360 360 360 360 Rods are
630 630 630 630 630 630. The rods have quick std balance not
race balance small and big end because it requires tons
of more labor and that falls into race engine build service.

I mean, who is balancing OEM parts on std puttering around
S54 engine ? absolutely nobody !!!!!

But it bothers me that the balance is from1984. That means
that balance factor on the production line on S54 is the same
as the one on S38 from 1984 and why I can't live with the fact
that 20 years later the balance factor has not been improved...

The S38 revs to 7250rpm. S54 rev limit has been increased
up to 7900-8000+/-, on any road S54 is there a stock rev limmiter
left ? any tuner raises the rev to 8200rpm which makes things
for the worst.

To make my labor less and easier next time I will match the
parts Rods to Pistons to be close and then will take less material
from the individual combo but that means that the next rebuild service
I can assure you that next person will not mark the parts and if
they get mixed means the balance is going to go way off and
can cause problems.

The way I have done it is individually and one can mix them
and they are still on the same exact weight +/-.05gr.

Moving forward.

Regards,
Anri

[maupineda]

So the rev limiter should not be more than 7900? I am not sure I followed the post above. What’s is the factor you refer to?

[Anri]

So the rev limiter should not be more than 7900? I am not sure I followed the post above. What’s is the factor you refer to?

I was pointing that at 8000rpm the pistons, rods, pins must be all under 0.5gr.
8000rpm is pretty hi revs for not perfect factory balance.

Not saying that factory balance is not working but it's not ideal. But when I rebuild
any engine I always bring the balance under +/-0.5gr. its nice to have balanced
internals.

99% plus S54s are all tuned and most Tuners push the rev limiter to
8200rpm on std factory balance which is not clever idea. I have a buddy
who revs his S54 to 8600rpm on standard parts!!! He is crazy...

Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

The Bottom is now all assembled.

I tried every single assembly line lube on the market
when assemble Rings in Piston/s. It always bothered
me that on initial start that lube is stuck there and as the
engine gets hot the lube sure it melts and it smokes thru
the exhaust but that time frame so long and I hate to say
it but I am not feeling the love how I want to see the rings
to rub agains the fresh hone...on Break-In.

So, what it works wonderful for me since ages is I dress the
rings/pistons with WD40 and put a very light/wipe on the
walls. On initial start there is zero smoke and the rings do
break in waaaay better than any lube on the market I have
tried...if one think all of those lubes they are all made to
provide very long cranking time period up until the oil pressure
is up...Rings hate that !!! Of course bearing I use a cocktail
I mix with Molybdneum.

Before I put the head on I wipe the walls with dry blue
towel.

Last is to check TDC at the Piston and the damper its
darn spot on.

Moving forward.

Regards,
Anri










One can see the oil galley plug, far away of anything around.

[Anri]

Having the right tool for the Vibration
Damper is priceless. Yes you can imagine
I tried most viscosity oils to lube the threads
as BMW recommends but nothing I mean
nothing work as good as the ARP lubricant
been doing this for years now...

Regards,
Anri

[George Hill]

Anri, great update, but I can't get past cutting the corner on the guides. Yes they are robust, but still if there is a issue it could be catastrophic at worse but at best to replace them it is very invasive. I just looked and the parts are retail about $140 (oil pump and both cam chain guides) wholesale cost $100 +/-. Isn't there a better place to save money than there?

[Anri]

Anri, great update, but I can't get past cutting the corner on the guides. Yes they are robust, but still if there is a issue it could be catastrophic at worse but at best to replace them it is very invasive. I just looked and the parts are retail about $140 (oil pump and both cam chain guides) wholesale cost $100 +/-. Isn't there a better place to save money than there?

George,

Thanks for you reply. I get it, but its not me my man.
The pile of $100's here and there....is big, I forgot to mention
the Water pump is also replaced with one in a good condition....

Moving ahead.

Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

Moving to the cylinder head work.

(excuse my single missing bolt on the Rotisserie-Head Stand
but forgot those special length bolts using std washer and the head
is allen type) Next week I will get them from the hardware store.

On the Rotisserie landing area there are 2 layers of duct tape
to prevent metal to metal contact.

Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

Gents,

Forgot to share the crank condition.

There are 2 proper ways to check the crank and I do both ways.

a) via V blocks using crankshaft stand
b) via placing 2 mains half. 1 at the cylinder 1 and then at
thrust so that the crankshaft it does not move back and forth I
am getting around ~1thou which is totally normal.

The junk yard advertised this engine as 128k miles might be right
might be wrong....could be 228k lol.

When I polish the journals the the belt speed can not be too fast in
order to get the mirror finish. The belt grit can not be to rough.. it
take some time to play in order to get good results.

One can see the marks in the crankshaft journals and on the thrust side.
Polishing the crank knocks off the sharp edges so that way they scores
are under the surface and funny to say that they will hold oil which is a
good thing. For sure this crankshaft has some ware from poor
maintenance.

I am sharing these details so people could expect to see from these
engines. They are getting older by the days.

Enjoy.

[Anri]

Proper Valve Job is critical !!!!


I am fully equipped to do reface, valves, seats in-house and do it properly!!!. I
got tired of shop doing sloppy work...and having issues sealing the valves
agains the seat......There are Machine shops who do good work but usually they
are out at least 2months before they can take you In and then I am still having
a doubt if the work is done up to my standard so why I got the tooling to do it
on my own and properly without any doubts.

One of the most important is when the valve seat is cut the eccentricity
to be as close as possible to 0. I am able to bring this to Under .1" thousand !
I am improving my method at present and I will be to 0-(zero) run out.

Ones it's done this way the valves seals absolute properly against the seat,
and when you measure leak down test the head is sealing 100% and you know
if you have some leak its coming from the bottom end.


Cutting the valves is also another tricky moment. Ones installed in the chuck
one can not take rapid material away as most I have seen because the 5mm narrow
lower stem can flex and cut the valve not perfectly oval. Its very time consuming
process do all 24 valves. At last when the valve surface is cut usually its takes around
3min just running and making passes with the stone to glaze the surface to mirror finish
as you can see it in the picture.

This link is to show you guys head done at machine shop in Florida(swipe for a video). https://www.instagram.com/p/Cp-yr4EPIQP/

This is the current S54. https://www.instagram.com/p/CuazFGcgnHS/

Regards,
Anri.

[sapote]

I
am getting around ~1thou which is totally normal.

Hi Anri,
Off by 0.001" under size compared to new spec, or run-out from roundness? After polishing the crank, do you heat-treat the journals to add back the hardness coating?

One of the most important is when the valve seat is cut the eccentricity
to be as close as possible to 0. I am able to bring this to Under .1" thousand !
I am improving my method at present and I will be to 0-(zero) run out.

I guess you spend lots of time to find the perfect valve guide center in order to cut the seat with zero eccentricity. Very nice work.
Do you need to lap the valves to the seats as the final step?

Cutting the valves is also another tricky moment. Ones installed in the chuck
one can not take rapid material away as most I have seen because the 5mm narrow
lower stem can flex and cut the valve not perfectly oval. Its very time consuming
process do all 24 valves. At last when the valve is cut the is around 3min just
running and making passes with the stone to glaze the surface to mirror finish
as you can see it in the picture..

If no valve nor seat got damage, why not just lap the valves to seats for a perfect sealing surface and call it a day and skip the cutting of valves and seats?

Thanks for sharing your experiences!

[Anri]

Hi Anri,
Off by 0.001" under size compared to new spec, or run-out from roundness? After polishing the crank, do you heat-treat the journals to add back the hardness coating?

The 1-1.5" thou is how much the crank is bent nothing to do with clearance.
My polish is more just to "glaze" the surface. Imagine it's like polishing compound.

Do you need to lap the valves to the seats as the final step?

Yes I do lap to see how the valve job is done and were is the contact area. I took pics for you earlier today

Lapping is good but one needs to clean the surface very well !!! Because if you only wipe there will be
left over lapping compound in the lapped trace and that will be potentially imbedded on the valve surface.
I use extremely fine lapping compound to only haze the surface so no harm there are all.
To clean to perfection I use acetone with scotchbrite lightly scrubbing ones the seat is done and then with
new paper towel I make a final wipe again with Acetone before I put the valve/s.

If no valve nor seat got damaged, why not just lap the valves to seats for a perfect sealing surface and call it a day and skip the cutting of valves and seats?

I get what you are saying but look at the exhaust valve, pay attention the pitting. That is from
carbon flying thru and getting stuck and the valve is beating the seat pounding the surface and what
you see in the pic.

Intake valves don't not have this issue. Contact surface is not ideal after so many miles. Beating the
valve seat. The only way to seal is to kiss the surface as I do to make it flat and kiss the seat.

Pay attention to valve contact area right were it needs to be right on the edge.

Regards,
Anri

[digger]

If no valve nor seat got damage, why not just lap the valves to seats for a perfect sealing surface and call it a day and skip the cutting of valves and seats?

You cannot properly correct improper seats/valves by lapping no matter what you see retards doing on YT etc if the sealing surfaces are in good condition leave them alone, if not in good condition then you correct them by cutting or grinding first.

[sapote]

You cannot properly correct improper seats/valves by lapping no matter what you see retards doing on YT etc if the sealing surfaces are in good condition leave them alone, if not in good condition then you correct them by cutting or grinding first.

Yes, I didn't think about the mushroomed seats pounded by the high-lift valves at high mileage engines.