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    Questions re Installing Window Regulator

    Hi Everyone:

    I am considering DIYing a window regulator (driver side) but wanted to ask a few questions before I got ahead of myself.

    The door panel is off and I have genuine bmw parts in hand. I have access to the motor screws and the four bolts holding the regulator arms in the door.

    My initial questions are:

    1. Does the glass need to come out? I’m planning to have someone hold the glass in situ while I remove the motor and old regulator. Just want to make sure it’s this straightforward.

    2. Are there any major issues, tricks or traps that I need to be aware of?

    3. Is the install as easy as it seems? Kinda of seems like a 1 or 2 out of 5 … with 5 being a motor swap.

    Thanks in advance!

    #2
    Did my passenger side earlier this year, and it really isn't all too hard once you get the panel off. Pulling the glass out helped a lot, just be careful if you have any tint or you'll scratch it up

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      #3
      I replaced my driver side window regulator/assembly a few years ago and its a one person job. I also remember not having to remove the glass. I think i had to tilt/angle the long bar that holds the 4 bolts to the door to get it in.

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        #4
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          #5
          While you're in there, ensure you have these cable clips or the rattling will be incessant (link).
          Just wanted to post this to the forum for something I recently encountered: A severe rattle from my passenger door over bumps, particularly when the window is completely in the closed position. Turns out, a cable clip securing the regulator cable in place had broken and allowed the regulator cable to vibrate inside the door

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            #6
            Study how the steel cable 2 beads anchored to the glass 2 lifters -- they are inserted into the plastic plates, and with times the up/down force from the bead will cut into the lifter and break them. I used steel wire to tighten the steel cable down on the lifter at both ends of the bead (drill 2 small holes on the lifter and loop the wire around) and this prolong the regulator life for a long time.

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              #7
              Originally posted by sapote View Post
              Study how the steel cable 2 beads anchored to the glass 2 lifters -- they are inserted into the plastic plates, and with times the up/down force from the bead will cut into the lifter and break them. I used steel wire to tighten the steel cable down on the lifter at both ends of the bead (drill 2 small holes on the lifter and loop the wire around) and this prolong the regulator life for a long time.
              My passenger side door lock regulator is dead and I'll be doing a black interior swap slowly, so I'll need to remove the panel anyway. Thanks for the idea Sapote, I plan to take my time and make the the reinstall as sound proof and future proof as possible. Will look into the two glass lifters when I'm in there shortly.

              Do you have a picture of your future proofing?

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                #8
                I would strongly suggest to completely re-seal the vapor barrier with fresh butyl (note--easier to pull it off "cold" than using heat gun). I used the VAG-AKL45000505 butyl available from the typical online parts houses.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I completed this DIY earlier today. While a little tricky at times, it was relatively straightforward. Seating the top left (aft) regulator guide bolt was the only ordeal.

                  Glass stayed in the car.

                  Door shuts like a tank again. No more rattles or wobbling window.

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