Replacing control arm and tie rods, worth it or waste of $

[bavarian3]

2001 m3, 96k miles.
boots not torn

As part of a rod bearing job coming up I have a complete refresh of the front suspension parts on deck including control arms, tie rods. While I don't mind spending the money to get the car refreshed for maximum enjoyment, I also don't like wasting money for no reason.

So I want everyone's opinion on whether it's worthwhile to replace these balljoint-related suspension components. What actually wears within the balljoint that sees benefit from replacement assuming the boot is fine.

[01SG]

Tie rods are cheap, so I would probably do those. Having replaced my entire control arms at 120k, the new ones really didn't make much difference. The ball-joints can last a long time. If the car drives fine and the boots are in good shape and there is no play, then you could probably get away without replacing them.

You should do the bushing though.

[Phoenix///M3]

I replaced almost every part I touched if it was original when I did rod bearings including the entire front suspension. If you're in there, have the funds and plan to keep the car why not?


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[Tbonem3]

I replaced almost every part I touched if it was original when I did rod bearings including the entire front suspension. If you're in there, have the funds and plan to keep the car why not?

You can have funds, but still be prudent. At 96k, they could still be in perfectly fine condition. Parts are so expensive now too. The fcas were already expensive in 2014 when I did mine, I can only imagine now.

[tlow98]

You can have funds, but still be prudent. At 96k, they could still be in perfectly fine condition. Parts are so expensive now too. The fcas were already expensive in 2014 when I did mine, I can only imagine now.

$270 each give or take. I’d echo the other comments on here - they last a long time. There are ways to check them, including a factory tool.

[fattycharged]

Easy enough to check for play, if it's not there, why replace? They're sealed ball joints, I am in the same boat currently and not replacing them as I found no noticeable play, boots are good, so I just replaced the fcab


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[maw1124]

My general rule is if it’s rubber and available separately, replace the rubber. If it only comes attached to metal, replace the whole thing. Metal is metal and generally lasts a long time. Rubber is rubber and doesn’t last 15 years under car load (which if you’re thinking is moving or stationary).

maw

[Cubieman]

With parts prices the way they are I would at least suggest buying them if you plan on keeping the car, there's no telling when they may go up in price or even go NLA.

I am currently going down the expensive rabbithole of buying some of those types of parts, control arms, wheel bearings etc., just saw OEM CSL air filters are up to $400, granted the CSL stuff is more likely to fall off first.

[bavarian3]

Really appreciate all the feedback, everyone.

I do happen to have the parts(lemforder) already in hand, but I can return them. I wouldn't mind getting $800+ back.

I recently replaced my 170k+ mile e36 m3 ball joints since they're individually serviceable and cheap, but noticed no difference.

$270 each give or take. I’d echo the other comments on here - they last a long time. There are ways to check them, including a factory tool.

what's this factory tool you're referring to?

[tlow98]

what's this factory tool you're referring to?

Looks like an expensive sonar device: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...mounts/3xfCBFx

In reality, if they're clicking, they're shot. Or if the boot is torn, it's probably time to move on. Or if the balljoint moves as freely as a PS2 joystick... you get the picture. But it appears the click must be pretty faint to use the factory service device.

When I pulled the 212k mile units from my donor they didn't seem all that bad, but the rubber was starting to crack and there's no way I was going back in there. So, in the garbage, the old ones went.

[D-O]

I replaced nearly everything I touched when I did the rod bearings, but that was just before prices went nuts. Its nice knowing I will be too old to drive it by the time it wears out...

[PSUEng]

Does anyone have a good DIY for FCAB bushing replacement of the bushing itself, not just the lollipop ? I may need to do these, but I know a forum member offers exchanges with bushings pressed in.

For that matter--Genuine BMW or Lem?

[oceansize]

Does anyone have a good DIY for FCAB bushing replacement of the bushing itself, not just the lollipop ? I may need to do these, but I know a forum member offers exchanges with bushings pressed in.

For that matter--Genuine BMW or Lem?

When I did mine years ago lemforder was great.

[fattycharged]

Does anyone have a good DIY for FCAB bushing replacement of the bushing itself, not just the lollipop ? I may need to do these, but I know a forum member offers exchanges with bushings pressed in.

For that matter--Genuine BMW or Lem?

I thought Lemforder were the OE for that part

[Thoglan]

Does anyone have a good DIY for FCAB bushing replacement of the bushing itself, not just the lollipop ? I may need to do these, but I know a forum member offers exchanges with bushings pressed in.

For that matter--Genuine BMW or Lem?

Not sure why more people don't just buy a new bushing instead of an entirely new lollipop if you have a basic press. It's 30usd for the bushing and takes <5 minutes to press the old one out and press the new one in. Go over the surface of the lollipop with a scotch pad and boom, brand new lollipop for half price.