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My 3.73 ZF LSD build

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    My 3.73 ZF LSD build

    Finally completed my diff build! It has 3.73 gears, a ZF 2 clutch 45/45 diff converted to 4 clutches using a Racing Diffs setup. The R&P, bearings and races are REM poished. Carrier preload is 10 in/lbs, pinion preload w/ seal is 16 in/lbs and the backlash is a hair over .005". Gear pattern on drive side looks good...forgot to take a pic of the coast side of the gear.

    The story...I sourced a diff from an E24 633CSi which came with a large case (210mm) diff with a ZF limited slip unit and 3.73 gears. Ideally I would have had 3.85 gears. I plan to run smaller diameter tires and a 3.91 will be a tad shorter forcing a couple of more shifts per lap. Also stayed with 45/45 ramp angles for now. Ideal setup (I think) will be a 3.85 with 30/60 ramps. But before I sink more money into this...let's see if I'm capable of building a diff!

    While this wasn't easy, so far it hasn't been super complex. The biggest issue is the lack of info on BMW diffs which are a little different than most others. Mostly in how you measure carrier preload. I figured out that you set carrier preload first. Then shims, I'm pretty sure the shims are specific to the case with maybe some minor adjustments for a specific R&P. The R&P has markings on them...have no idea what they mean but I'm sure it has something to do with calculating the ideal shim for pinion depth. I reused the same shims that came with the case (NOT the 3.73 R&P) and the specs came out perfect without adjustment. My theory (not saying its fact) is that the shim that comes with the case is a great starting point. The ideal shims will be close to what came with the case.

    If the shims come out right the first time, then life is good. The next hurdle is pinion preload. It takes awhile to get preload and then it goes from 0 to 30 in/lbs in about 1/16 of a turn on the pinion nut. I ruined 4 crush sleeves and 2 pinion seals figuring this out. Finally learned how to press the pinion in without ruining the seal. I used an air impact and greased the pinion nut. I used longer blasts to take the play out of the input flange. As soon as I got some preload, it was a short blast of the impact, remove flange holder (bolted down to flange), check preload, install flange holder, another blast and repeat). It takes patience. I know BMW has a special tool to hold the flange, trying to figure this out. This would make like much better instead of bolting and unbolting my flange holder (4' long cheater bar with holes) 10-15 times)

    Overall, its not the impossible task. You don't NEED a press but it makes it go MUCH, MUCH quicker.

    Special Tools Needed:
    BAP - big ass press or could use bearing separator but this is MUCH easier!
    BFH & punch
    Bearing separator
    Race/seal driver
    32mm socket
    Dial indicator w/ base
    Input flange holder (fab'd from 4' long 1/8" steel L-bar)
    Adaptor for output flange to measure carrier preload (steel bar, 2 holes drilled to bolt to flange, hole on end with bolt to measure preload)
    Beam style torque wrench (in/lbs) for preload
    1/4" female to 3/8" male socket adaptor (to fit 32mm socket to beam torque wrench)
    3/8" female to 1/2" male socket adaptor (to fit 32mm socket to beam torque wrench)
    Gear marking compound (I used diaper rash cream...it worked ok)

    Steps to assemble the diff

    Step 1 - Install LSD unit with bearings into case (no pinion gear installed)
    Step 2 - Set carrier preload & remove LSD unit
    Step 3 - Install pinion gear races into diff case
    Step 4 - Install pinion gear and input flange - do not crush sleeve or install seal yet! - & install
    Step 5 - Install LSD carrier
    Step 6 - Check gear pattern and adjust (may need to change pinion shim and and/or carrier shims)
    Step 7 - Check backlash
    Step 8 - Remove LSD unit & pinion gear
    Step 9 - Install crush sleeve on pinion gear
    Step 10 - Press pinion gear into case
    Step 11 - Install input seal
    Step 12 - Set pinion preload (big impact - tighten nut to take up/down play out of input flange, tighten nut with short blasts if the imact, as you get closer to preload spec - use shorter blasts)
    Step 13 - Reassemble and re-check gear pattern and backlash - should not need any adjustment

    Don't forget the carrier cap O-rings!

    Some pics...

    The LSD unit being assembled...



    The carrier ready for some LSD goodness!



    The carrier races being installed



    The LSD unit is together



    Gear pattern on the drive side looks good!



    Proof of backlash...lol


    #2
    It's a messy job and BigJae you have more courage than me. A friend purchased an E34 M5 large case diff and we did the 4-clutch upgrade/replacement from Thayer Motorsports. It was relatively simple. Neither of us had the tools, knowledge or patience to attempt installing the internals into the case. He had a local shop in Atlanta do the install and set up. He's an accomplished driver, race and instructor (works at Porsche Performance Center as an instructor) and loves the improvement of the ZF over stock.

    Feff
    MVP Track Time

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      #3
      Wow, I dig the confidence level you have man!
      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
      Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
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      OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
      RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

      2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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        #4
        Nice work. I purchased standard 3.91 diff from diffsonline as I didn't have courage to do my own. Perhaps someday I will take the time to learn what I need to.
        3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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          #5
          Originally posted by Feffman View Post
          It's a messy job and BigJae you have more courage than me. A friend purchased an E34 M5 large case diff and we did the 4-clutch upgrade/replacement from Thayer Motorsports. It was relatively simple. Neither of us had the tools, knowledge or patience to attempt installing the internals into the case. He had a local shop in Atlanta do the install and set up. He's an accomplished driver, race and instructor (works at Porsche Performance Center as an instructor) and loves the improvement of the ZF over stock.

          Feff
          If you're swapping in a different LSD unit, I believe you can just swap the ring gear, replace the carrier bearings. Then check backlash and gear pattern. Should at least be pretty close.

          The internal guts of the case...we'll see how it works out. It was mostly straight forward.

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            #6
            Quick question: I'm getting ready to install my diff and have a new OE diff cover to go with it as my bushings were shot. You guys have a preferred RTV to use for this?
            3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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              #7
              Originally posted by oceansize View Post
              Quick question: I'm getting ready to install my diff and have a new OE diff cover to go with it as my bushings were shot. You guys have a preferred RTV to use for this?
              I haven't gotten that far yet. I have solid diff bushings so I'm going to reuse the cover that is currently in the car. I have a tube of black permatiex RTV that I'm going to use...the stuff you get from Auto Zone.

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                #8
                Thanks, this is very helpful. I am in the process of gathering parts to get my diff rebuilt. Although I won't be tackling the rebuild job myself, it's good to have more info out there as I struggled to find much detailed info out there.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by oceansize View Post
                  Quick question: I'm getting ready to install my diff and have a new OE diff cover to go with it as my bushings were shot. You guys have a preferred RTV to use for this?
                  https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/83190404517/

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                    #10
                    Love to know how this work out.... looking at picking up a Racing DIff 4 clutch myself.

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                      #11
                      Nice work!

                      What's the total part cost, if you're doing the work yourself?

                      2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                      2012 LMB/Black 128i
                      2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Obioban View Post
                        Nice work!

                        What's the total part cost, if you're doing the work yourself?
                        Not J's build, but here's mine:

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                          #13
                          Nice work!

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                            #14
                            bigjae46 How is this diff holding up? I've heard conflicting reviews of the racing diffs stuff, any thoughts on those parts?
                            '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                            Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                            Email to George@HillPerformance.com

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                              #15
                              With the 4 clutch conversion kit, haven’t had any issues. I‘ve opened the LSD once earlier this year to look at the clutch discs. Didn’t notice anything odd.

                              Haven’t had or heard of an issue with the V1 clutch kit which is what I’ve installed most often.

                              The V2 kit is a different story. The torque on the end cap seems to have a narrow band of being noisy and not locking up. I have a car that we are getting a 1 wheel peel. Not sure if it’s a suspension setup - has a terrible coilover on it - KW clubsport. I’m not sure if the inside rear wheel is coming off the ground or if the diff isn’t locking.

                              We still have static lock up but the breakaway torque has gone from 120nm to 80nm. Still seeing if it stabilizes at 80nm or continues to drop.

                              I did another V2 at 140nm of static preload and it groaned like crazy. We lowered the static preload to 105nm to eliminate the noise and it dropped to about 70nm at the break in service. We use OE BMW SAF-XJ+. It’s a convertible so if he ever drives it hard enough to lock up the diff he’ll probably hit a tree and total the car. So hard to say how well the diff is performing in that case.

                              The V2 unit is a massive pain in the ass. We have a rig to hold it so we can get the cap off. And it’s left hand thread…found that out the hard way.
                              Last edited by bigjae46; 10-03-2022, 06:53 PM.

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