Another One....and Another One....

[Anri]

Why not use CP for the rods?

They are under 500g and CP is made in house.

https://rcagarage.com/shop/engine-co...s54-65472h-06/

Thanks for your reply.

I am aware of CP. Last time I checked they
were identical weight (-2) 498gr it varies from batch
to batch few grams +/-.

CP are double the cost of Molnar. When I build
an engine I am offering options to my customers
with positives and the negatives then they get to
chose. Most customers always overthink and buy
parts will not benefit them at all ! And this is all based
on lack of knowledge how it works.

My job is to lay down on the table the cost, benefits
etc and spent the money wisely.

The record amount of money one of my customer made
a mistake was $40k (not going into details) due to not
listening to my concept. Later admitted but too late...


Regards,
Anri

[Altaran]

Thanks for your reply.

I am aware of CP. Last time I checked they
were identical weight (-2) 498gr it varies from batch
to batch few grams +/-.

CP are double the cost of Molnar. When I build
an engine I am offering options to my customers
with positives and the negatives then they get to
chose. Most customers always overthink and buy
parts will not benefit them at all ! And this is all based
on lack of knowledge how it works.

My job is to lay down on the table the cost, benefits
etc and spent the money wisely.

The record amount of money one of my customer made
a mistake was $40k (not going into details) due to not
listening to my concept. Later admitted but too late...


Regards,
Anri

I used Lang's NA lightweight CP Version in my motor. They are 432g per piece, so considerably lighter. But as you said CP ist double the price, so it always depends how far you want to go...

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[Anri]

I used Lang's NA lightweight CP Version in my motor. They are 432g per piece, so considerably lighter. But as you said CP ist double the price, so it always depends how far you want to go...

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I know CP and their light weight version but they
are even more money, it's double+ $1000 over.

Its interesting that one pays $1800 for the CP rods
and they still don't have the Oil notches on the BE
and a grove on the SE......and if one wants to correct
this it will surpass $2000, I am speechless...

Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

Little update:

Obioban I think you mentioned few days ago some
one uses excessive amount of silicone....In the pic previous
tech used silicone to seal the front seal...from outside.

When I removed the existing seal I found massive 3-4
massive damages from the technical who replaced it previously.

I quit using Silicone about 10+ years ago. Instead I use 3 different
compounds thru the engine

Moving ahead.

Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

New guides are going in this engine.

[Anri]

The front snout as we can see has the friction
movements. BMW did not address this to its
maximum Engineering, yes they are aware of
this issue but they ignore to improve it because
it works... Is my upcoming conversion going to
work better? yes.

I am working on a solution I have in mind to
address/improve this by little. I have seen 3 S54s
with snapped pin. The pin is only to localize the
damper to be placed in the proper location for TDC
when doing the timing. The pin has zero function
to secure.

The nature of the second order harmonics.

I managed to clean the damage surface to
certain extend.

Regards
Anri

[eacmen]

New guides are going in this engine.

So you usually use OE upper chain guide on rebuilds? Wouldn't it be prudent to use the beisan part?

[Anri]

So you usually use OE upper chain guide on rebuilds? Wouldn't it be prudent to use the beisan part?

Eeacmen,

Thanks for your reply and question.

There are total of 5 guides in the
chain drive. The ones in the picture
are installed behind the front chain
cover. Beisan guide is part of the
head/vanos I am not there, yet.

Top rail
Oil pump
Intake long (far right)
Lower exhaust side
Upper guide will be the Beisan for sure.

I never use the OEM flimsy which will break
after the first hard run after being installed..

OE is Original Equipment.
OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer means
Genuine-Parts.

Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

Every single S54 owner knows this issue with
the oil pump chain hitting the oil pick up casting.

The pump chain tensioner is way too close to
the block. I have seen it interferes under hard
work out. When the tensioner hits the block it
no longer has the function to dampen for very
little moment till the revs goes down.

If the springs is too stiff will wear out the guide
quicker but may be by not much who knows...
these are things that will require testing with one
that put a lot of miles on the car.

The distance between the chain and the casting
tube is big note In the video I made for us the members.
I am showing how much the chain slack is on the
other side when the tensioner bottoms down.This
is way too much.

My option is I trimmed the oil pump casting tab and
also the plastic guide round part. By doing this the
tensioner will never bottom down and stop doing its
intended function. The slack should remain in the
tensioner side never on opposite side. As you can
see when I push the chain the tensioner is always
under spring/tension.

Moving forward.

Regards
Anri

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WDyUygjJDd0

[AWE46M3]

More! 👏🏽 Great work, Anri

[Anri]

I found the picture from one of the several
S54s I have seen with snapped snout pin.

Twist twist twist twist snap.....


Regards,
Anri