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    Engine Loud Ticking Noise - Need Advice

    Having bad day…car has been sitting a while and decided to go on a short drive yesterday. Made it one block before hearing some really bad ticking noises from the engine. Any ideas what could be wrong?

    I just recently had a valve adjustment a few hundred miles ago performed by Lang. Haven’t had a chance to take the valve cover off to inspect, but I plan to do that soon.

    2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

    #2
    Sounds more like an exhaust leak to me.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Shonky View Post
      Sounds more like an exhaust leak to me.
      Hmmm it sounds metallic to me
      2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

      Comment


        #4
        Move your head around engine etc.

        Got a mechanic stethoscope? Or even just a wooden broom stick or something. Listen around on the engine.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by duracellttu View Post
          Having bad day…car has been sitting a while and decided to go on a short drive yesterday. Made it one block before hearing some really bad ticking noises from the engine. Any ideas what could be wrong?

          I just recently had a valve adjustment a few hundred miles ago performed by Lang. Haven’t had a chance to take the valve cover off to inspect, but I plan to do that soon.

          https://youtube.com/shorts/GpudJhMCm...j7WUJVnRroEct8

          Hi,

          Sound like metal to metal, at least how it comes out of the phone
          camera mic.

          I wouldn't drive the car till its fixed.

          Regards,
          Anri
          https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/.

          www.euroclassicmotors.com

          Comment


            #6
            Valve shim came loose, VANOS bolt came loose, cam follower going flat? Also, stop going to Lang.
            Instagram: @logicalconclusion

            Comment


              #7
              Sounds like a loose shim to me - Use a stethoscope to pin point the source/location

              Mine sounded just like that when a shim popped out of the seat.

              Comment


                #8
                Based on the last job being a valve adjustment, it might have spat out a shim.
                Last edited by Slideways; 09-16-2023, 10:41 PM. Reason: typo

                Comment


                  #9
                  Update: Removed the valve cover to diagnose and this is what I found. Cylinder 3 on the exhaust side threw a shim on one of the valves. Luckily I found the shim under a little pool of oil in the middle of the valve train. Got super lucky that it didn’t get thrown around and cause more damage.

                  First question: The shim retainer looks trashed. But is the rocker and cam salvageable? It only appears to him micro-abrasions.

                  Second question: Can the shim retainer be replaced by just removing that single cam or does the entire head have to come off?

                  Third question: How does a shim even get thrown? The rocker was still in place. However it did appear that the retainer clip wasn't fully fully seated in that side. Even so that rocker didn't appear to be out of position at all.

                  Forth question: What leverage do I have over the shop who performed the valve job last? I have less than 500 miles on the car since this happened.

                  Last question: does the wear on the cam lobes look normal. The cams only have a couple thousand miles on them total.

                  As always I appreciate the advice.









                  Last edited by duracellttu; 09-17-2023, 03:18 PM.
                  2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If you run your nail over the cam lobe, can you feel those nicks on the cam? It appears that either the shim or rocker spring clip came in contact with the cam lobe and the cylinder head.

                    Yes, the valve spring retainer can be replaced with the head still on the engine. They force air in the cylinder and it keeps the valves in place while they replace the retainer. The retainer took the most damage and I would think that they will definitely need to replace that. Ideally, it would be best to replace the cam, the rocker and the spring retainer, but I can imagine the shop will not want to do that. The cam and rocker might still be good to use for thousands of miles, but that valve spring retainer needs to be replaced. Are those the stock valve spring retainers?

                    The rocker arm needs to be securely located by the spring clip. If it is not, any slight movement can allow the shim to get pushed out by the rocker not contacting the shim squarely in the center. This is why it is important to double check that all those spring clips are seated properly after adjustment and before closing the valve cover.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Slideways View Post
                      If you run your nail over the cam lobe, can you feel those nicks on the cam? It appears that either the shim or rocker spring clip came in contact with the cam lobe and the cylinder head.

                      Yes, the valve spring retainer can be replaced with the head still on the engine. They force air in the cylinder and it keeps the valves in place while they replace the retainer. The retainer took the most damage and I would think that they will definitely need to replace that. Ideally, it would be best to replace the cam, the rocker and the spring retainer, but I can imagine the shop will not want to do that. The cam and rocker might still be good to use for thousands of miles, but that valve spring retainer needs to be replaced. Are those the stock valve spring retainers?

                      The rocker arm needs to be securely located by the spring clip. If it is not, any slight movement can allow the shim to get pushed out by the rocker not contacting the shim squarely in the center. This is why it is important to double check that all those spring clips are seated properly after adjustment and before closing the valve cover.
                      At a minimum I'm going to replace the retainer. There is no way a shim will fit in there in that condition. These are SuperTech valves, springs and retainers. I believe they are mad of titanium which is why it go beat up so easily.

                      Is it possible to replace the shim retainer with the cam on? I know it a long shot but if that is possible I have a chance of DIY'ing this fix.
                      2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by duracellttu View Post

                        At a minimum I'm going to replace the retainer. There is no way a shim will fit in there in that condition. These are SuperTech valves, springs and retainers. I believe they are mad of titanium which is why it go beat up so easily.

                        Is it possible to replace the shim retainer with the cam on? I know it a long shot but if that is possible I have a chance of DIY'ing this fix.
                        To get the valve spring tool in there, I'm pretty sure the cam has to come out.

                        Did the shop give you a report on which valves they adjusted? If they did the head work previously, you might want them to tackle this as it is not an easy or quick DIY.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          It's not a coincidence that this happens within 500 miles of a valve adjustment. The question is, will Lang blame you or take responsibility? What is thickness of the shim that fell out?
                          Last edited by Arith2; 09-18-2023, 06:54 AM.
                          This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                          https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                          "Do it right once or do it twice"

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I would do anything possible to make sure Lang is going to help you cover this. I wouldn't go in guns blazing, but there is no way this is your fault.
                            /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

                            Comment


                              #15
                              @duracellttu


                              The following failure from this parts combo! you are number 354..and continue to count.

                              I wander when people will learn how it works....seems like it will never happen..

                              To do it properly everything has to be out. Camshafts out, rocker shaft out to replace the
                              damaged rocker, Bridge-depressor tool is needed, constant compressed air is needed in
                              the cylinder. Inspect the valve tip for any potential damages. New camshaft indeed, DLC
                              rocker. (I am having 3 sets of DLC rockers I can assist with 1 for your need)

                              A very close friend Ant had exact the same failure last month on his fresh cammed 288/280
                              but did not get lucky like you..his valve dropped inside and destroyed the cylinder....

                              Let me know if you need any help.

                              Regards,
                              Anri


                              Last edited by Anri; 09-24-2023, 08:46 AM.
                              https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/.

                              www.euroclassicmotors.com

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