Stealing this from blackknight530i here, because it's too useful to not repost/share: https://www.m5board.com/threads/home...others.617663/
For those having issues with the Homelink 3.0 (stock e38/e39/e53/e46) module not opening Liftmaster/Chamberlain garage doors from about 2008+, I found a really good solution to this and have tested it myself and verified it works in both my 2003 M5 and my 2005 Range Rover. In the 2011+ or so 5-series and 7-series cars (probably others as well), the homelink mirror was updated to version 4.0, which is Security+ 2.0 compatible. Thing is, the module inside the mirror is identical in shape, wiring location, and function as the older 3.0 modules and can be swapped in. I bought a 2011 5-series mirror with homelink (part number 51169224345), cracked open the casing on the mirror, and removed the module.
If you look at this comparison, the Homelink 4.0 module is on the top and the Homelink 3.0 is on the bottom (out of an e39 ceiling module).
The only changes that need to be made to convert the E39 ceiling module is to swap the 3 pin white plug (ceiling module has a couple of screws that won't be used anymore) and desolder the ribbon cable from the buttons on the board (heat gun and careful lifting and also using a soldering iron to help heat the existing solder while lifting will make this happen pretty easily), then solder the buttons from the ceiling module to the Homelink 4.0 module. It helps to put some new solder on the pads of the Homelink 4.0 module before trying to solder the old ribbon cable to it. Placement is not super critical, but you do need to at least make sure that the pads line up with the traces on the ribbon. I found it helps to leave a bit of the pads exposed at the edge of the ribbon so you can use the soldering iron to heat them up when placing the ribbon. This is because the ribbon itself blocks a ton of heat and won't allow it to heat up the solder well through it.
Once done, you program your original garage door remote to the Homelink as normal with no extra steps other than holding it close to the module and pressing both buttons. I had a ton of issues with getting the repeater working with some of my cars, so this was the solution on both my Range Rover (easier since it had a Homelink Mirror and I only needed to swap the module without doing any soldering) and my M5. I also bought a Homelink 4.0 module for my Cayman S, but haven't swapped it in yet to try it.
For those having issues with the Homelink 3.0 (stock e38/e39/e53/e46) module not opening Liftmaster/Chamberlain garage doors from about 2008+, I found a really good solution to this and have tested it myself and verified it works in both my 2003 M5 and my 2005 Range Rover. In the 2011+ or so 5-series and 7-series cars (probably others as well), the homelink mirror was updated to version 4.0, which is Security+ 2.0 compatible. Thing is, the module inside the mirror is identical in shape, wiring location, and function as the older 3.0 modules and can be swapped in. I bought a 2011 5-series mirror with homelink (part number 51169224345), cracked open the casing on the mirror, and removed the module.
If you look at this comparison, the Homelink 4.0 module is on the top and the Homelink 3.0 is on the bottom (out of an e39 ceiling module).
The only changes that need to be made to convert the E39 ceiling module is to swap the 3 pin white plug (ceiling module has a couple of screws that won't be used anymore) and desolder the ribbon cable from the buttons on the board (heat gun and careful lifting and also using a soldering iron to help heat the existing solder while lifting will make this happen pretty easily), then solder the buttons from the ceiling module to the Homelink 4.0 module. It helps to put some new solder on the pads of the Homelink 4.0 module before trying to solder the old ribbon cable to it. Placement is not super critical, but you do need to at least make sure that the pads line up with the traces on the ribbon. I found it helps to leave a bit of the pads exposed at the edge of the ribbon so you can use the soldering iron to heat them up when placing the ribbon. This is because the ribbon itself blocks a ton of heat and won't allow it to heat up the solder well through it.
Once done, you program your original garage door remote to the Homelink as normal with no extra steps other than holding it close to the module and pressing both buttons. I had a ton of issues with getting the repeater working with some of my cars, so this was the solution on both my Range Rover (easier since it had a Homelink Mirror and I only needed to swap the module without doing any soldering) and my M5. I also bought a Homelink 4.0 module for my Cayman S, but haven't swapped it in yet to try it.
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