Oil change

[maupineda]

When I was trouble shooting vanos pressure issues I made several pressure tests with 0w40 and 15w50 and there was no change at all between idle and 3k rpm

[bigjae46]

I actually do not run 10w60 at all, I have used either 0w40 or 15w50 mobil1. the car runs the same with both, and 0w40 actually runs cooler in normal use as there is less energy to displace the oil through passages and galleys. If you abuse it for long periods, on a hot day, at an incline, with AC, I have seen the needle move passed just a touch right to the middle, or 220F - 105C depending on where you live, that said, it also comes back down instantly to right of the middle point to 95C. I also use ceratec with every change. we will see how my bearings come out next year when I can do them; my car has 87k kms. I would only use 10w60 if I pounded on it all day, every day.

I used 0w-40 during Milwaukee winters. But I don't think I'd ever use 0w-40 at the track again. Especially when it's hot out.

[maupineda]

I used 0w-40 during Milwaukee winters. But I don't think I'd ever use 0w-40 at the track again. Especially when it's hot out.

Agree, in my case I dont abuse the car, just the occasional redline pull here and there, but mostly cruising, so in my use case, is fine. fun fact, my car has averaged 9.8l/100 or 24 mpg for the last 14,000km.

[Ramo]

I would if I were going to track the car. I haven't compared their signature oil to the Euro 10w60. When I initially made the choice, it was because the 5w50 was almost comparable to Shell's and Castrol's 10w60, but it performed better in shear tests. Project Farm conducted tests and demonstrated its superiority. I'll have to find the guy who conducts parts wear tests using different oils on YouTube; he maintains an extensive Excel database with almost all the available oils.

I know that's a lengthy explanation for saying 'no,' but I thought it would be best to provide a bit more context.

https://youtube.com/@PiotrTester?si=maZatltDUjcTn6QB

this guy?

[ugaexploder]

https://youtube.com/@PiotrTester?si=maZatltDUjcTn6QB

this guy?

this guy.

https://www.youtube.com/@ProjectFarm

[Cronenberged]

Ramo, ugaexploder both. In Piotr's channel, there's a Google Excel sheet containing all his tests. I appreciate Project Farm for offering a different perspective and providing valuable insights. I've been attempting to persuade him to conduct a test on all 10w60 oils and have even considered funding it. This would help put an end to the debate and provide solid data to determine which one is superior.

[digger]

Project farms oil tests are a waste of time. Do not use them as a guide for anything

[eacmen]

Project farms oil tests are a waste of time. Do not use them as a guide for anything

Can you expand on your thinking here?

[digger]

Can you expand on your thinking here?

Scores are based on test measures that are not the most important to be considered

Two of the tests are viscosity tests. The viscosity is written on the bottle so for the same grade they will fall within a tolerance. If you want a thinner oil then use one.

the lubricity test (wear scar) doesn’t replicate what’s going on in an engine it’s like a one armed bandit test not important for what we are dealing with.

no dude in his shed is going to come close to properly testing oils

[BL92]

I actually do not run 10w60 at all, I have used either 0w40 or 15w50 mobil1. the car runs the same with both, and 0w40 actually runs cooler in normal use as there is less energy to displace the oil through passages and galleys. If you abuse it for long periods, on a hot day, at an incline, with AC, I have seen the needle move passed just a touch right to the middle, or 220F - 105C depending on where you live, that said, it also comes back down instantly to right of the middle point to 95C. I also use ceratec with every change. we will see how my bearings come out next year when I can do them; my car has 87k kms. I would only use 10w60 if I pounded on it all day, every day.

Any updates ?

[Cronenberged]

Use Amsoil 5w50 or 10w60

[maupineda]

Any updates ?

I continue to use M1, but have stuck to 15w50. It does keep temps right in the middle even on the hot days this passed summer.

i know this is not the best oil, but it meets the criteria with good HTS values, good ZDDP and phosphorus content, and a good detergent package that keeps the engine super clean inside.

and is super affordable that I don’t see the need to look something different.

i also use ceratec with every oil change which is every year (miles are super low though). I drove her like 1000 miles last year.

[mpower22]

Oh no you didn’t! Where’s that slap emoji? 🤣

You’re talking about a viscosity change which is different from the additive package. I doubt that the 10w-30 and 10w-60 oils were different in additive or at least a special additive was made. Castrol probably just moved production to the 10w-60 line, slapped an M badge on it. And you know what happens when you put an M badge on something? It instantly gets more expensive.

I also don’t understand the hate on Liqui-Moly. If you even get into the subject on the FB group, the amateur oil experts go into why the additive package sucks and blah blah blah.

I’m willing to be that they didn’t even realize that BMW has switched from Castrol to Shell and now back to Castrol. I’m pretty sure there were differences.

I have run 0w-40 Mobil 1 in my car before. The pressures didn’t change very much from observing my gauge. The oil did get MUCH hotter but also cooled off a lot quicker.

I was just giving viscosity as an example here. The point is that regardless of viscosity or additives, there are always safe alternatives to use for different fluids, regardless of what "special fluids must be used" per mfr or what some E9x "expert" says because that's pretty much what they are - amateur experts. I call em e-mechanics or armchair mechanics, not sure which one I like better. They have no real world mechanical experience and just read posts on forums and after that, say they "researched" it extensively.

I'll also say that I'm no Liqui-Moly fanboy, but they make oil at a reasonable price and it's high quality oil. Especially when paying a ridiculous markup for BMW oil only for BMW to take a cut due to their licensing fees.. But I will also leave everyone with this - I've been using Moly in my Range Rover and now my Porsche - they are one of the few who have the newer C40 designation for engines with GPF (there are very few oils out there that meet this Porsche specification). So if Porsche will accept and honor it, I don't think I'm letting some joker on the interwebz tell me it's not good oil.