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Vanos CNC timing chain guide.

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    Vanos CNC timing chain guide.

    Just got my first e46 M3. Had many other past M cars. Slowly getting parts and pieces ready to overhaul my Vanos. I’m using mostly Beisan parts.

    Does anyone have experience was DrVanos CNC milled (racing) solid upper chain guide? I believe these are aluminum. It’s appealing from a longevity standpoint but I’ve searched high and low, can’t find if this is actually good idea.

    #2
    Beisan supplies this part to many online shops, so you are looking at the same part. More information below on how it is made:

    guide_launch1.jpg Beisan Systems has launched an S54 exhaust upper chain guide product. The Beisan chain guide is a shape replica of the BMW chain guide, but has a solid form and is made from a superior Nylon. The BMW chain guide lasts ~80k miles and a replacement BMW chain guide will likely wear faster. The Beisan chain guide

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      #3
      Originally posted by E11even View Post
      Just got my first e46 M3. Had many other past M cars. Slowly getting parts and pieces ready to overhaul my Vanos. I’m using mostly Beisan parts.

      Does anyone have experience was DrVanos CNC milled (racing) solid upper chain guide? I believe these are aluminum. It’s appealing from a longevity standpoint but I’ve searched high and low, can’t find if this is actually good idea.
      If it’s aluminum then I wonder that might affect the chain noise.

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        #4
        I may not know WTF I'm talking about, but from a logical point of view, I believed BMW made the upper chain guide out of a softer material to be a sacrificial part since it slides against the lower guide. If you change it out for a CNC milled (racing) solid upper chain guide, would it start to wear the lower guide, which is a much more difficult part to replace? Or worst yet, would it wear out the chain???
        Last edited by Xmetal; 10-15-2023, 10:02 AM.

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          #5
          Originally posted by sapote View Post

          If it’s aluminum then I wonder that might affect the chain noise.
          That would be the least of your worries.

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            #6
            From Dr. Vanos website:
            "We highly recommend changing the tensioner chain guide rail when removing the vanos, the stock chain guide becomes brittle over time and if left unchecked it can eventually break, causing chain noise (sometimes confused with vanos rattle) at low RPM.

            It's also very easy to replace once the vanos is out of the way.

            We sell the stock BMW replacement guide as well as an upgraded version that is CNC machined from solid stock and will last the life of the engine.
            • Stock or Racing versions available
            • Includes replacement crush washer"
            It does not say it is metal, I would assume it is from Beisan Systems.

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              #7
              Appears it’s not aluminum. My misunderstanding. Thanks for the input.

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                #8
                I don’t believe it’s metal, that would be a bad material for this application. If like other aftermarket it’s machined from a hard type of plastic blank like Delrin. ,
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                  #9
                  It is made from Nylatron NSM which is a special low friction plastic that can withstand the heat, oil, and wear. The wear comes from rubbing against the abrasive lower chain guide.

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                    #10
                    On a side note I never really hear much in regards to the rest of the chain guides having issues, my upper guide was indeed broken and changed put with the Beisan piece when already in there for vanos work.

                    I just wonder what the rest of the guides look like on an average 100k M3.
                    Also, my understanding is that you can't replace the rest of the guides without pulling the timing cover.
                    I also understand that the "correct" method is to pull the head before pulling the timing cover which seems like a shitty design.

                    I like on most N series motors how you can install the main chain guides from the top, save the oil pump guides which of course requires removing the oil pan.
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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                      On a side note I never really hear much in regards to the rest of the chain guides having issues, my upper guide was indeed broken and changed put with the Beisan piece when already in there for vanos work.

                      I just wonder what the rest of the guides look like on an average 100k M3.
                      Also, my understanding is that you can't replace the rest of the guides without pulling the timing cover.
                      I also understand that the "correct" method is to pull the head before pulling the timing cover which seems like a shitty design.

                      I like on most N series motors how you can install the main chain guides from the top, save the oil pump guides which of course requires removing the oil pan.
                      The other guides don't really experience wear. The upper one only wears because it's a virgin nylon rubbing against an abrasive glass filled nylon lower guide.

                      The front timing cover can be removed and reinstalled without removing the head. Just gotta be careful to clean it well and apply sealant into the corner, and tighten the bolts properly.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by cobra View Post

                        The other guides don't really experience wear. The upper one only wears because it's a virgin nylon rubbing against an abrasive glass filled nylon lower guide.

                        The front timing cover can be removed and reinstalled without removing the head. Just gotta be careful to clean it well and apply sealant into the corner, and tighten the bolts properly.
                        My friend has to remove the timing cover after dropping a 7mm open end wrench while doing his Vanos lol.

                        He got the wrench after removing harmonic balancer and timing cover.

                        Now he can't get.it back in with out fear of messing up the bottom of the front.part of the head gasket. It's such a tight fit you would need to gently tap it into place which would damage the head gasket.

                        He's going to have to drop the oil pan by loosening the oil pan bolts now to get the timing cover back in place. Only needs a few mm of clearance but still a pain

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post

                          My friend has to remove the timing cover after dropping a 7mm open end wrench while doing his Vanos lol.

                          He got the wrench after removing harmonic balancer and timing cover.

                          Now he can't get.it back in with out fear of messing up the bottom of the front.part of the head gasket. It's such a tight fit you would need to gently tap it into place which would damage the head gasket.

                          He's going to have to drop the oil pan by loosening the oil pan bolts now to get the timing cover back in place. Only needs a few mm of clearance but still a pain
                          You make a really good point that I completely forgot. When I did mine I had the oil pan off. It has got to be really tight with it still installed

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post

                            My friend has to remove the timing cover after dropping a 7mm open end wrench while doing his Vanos lol.
                            I was so afraid of dropping my 7mm when I did the same job that I tied the box end of my combo wrench to my belt loop with a rope.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by E46m3zcp View Post

                              I was so afraid of dropping my 7mm when I did the same job that I tied the box end of my combo wrench to my belt loop with a rope.
                              This is the way. I tied it to the hood though.

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