VANOS test failed

[Vict0r]

The diaphragm spring is a set of two items, it has flat keyed plate, then the cup washer, S54 has letter "A", S62 has "B". I friend of mine had these flipped, first the cup washer (effectively spring), then the keyed plat, or something like that, and then trying to time the engine the cams would not move at all. so you can try that, before removing VANOS, use the 24mm wrench and try to rock the cams. Before this though, make sure you take the solenoid pack so oil can scape and cams will move. If they don't move, something mechanical is jamming the splines.

If you DO NOT have any codes, they I do not think you have an electronic issue. but first make sure timing is correct, and verify you can actually rock the cams. Another potential is inserting the splines incorrectly, one is shorter than the other. I do not remember which is which. While in there check the timing tensioner, and look for the obvious.

If you want to verify the DME is operational, use Tool32 and run the different APIs independently, there is a thread in the "coding" section here on how to test VANOS using INPA (On the E46 is not possible), but that thread documents how to run VANOS test routines one at a time using Tool32.

I have already checked the position of the diaphragms and the long split on the pump side. Good advice, but unfortunately it is not the problem....

I will try to move the camshafts when I remove the valve cover, to see if they let them move.

I will look at the thread you mention and try to check the control unit with tool32.

thanks for your advice!

[OldRanger]

When I did some VANOS maintenance recently, I had trouble perfecting the timing. I eventually just buttoned it up, gave up on a few degrees of accuracy. Drawing on decades of experience racing bicycles, it caught my attention there was ‘slack’ introduced by wear in the timing chain and timing sprockets. I see you’ve replaced the chain, but not the sprockets. They are extremely expensive…probably the reason why they aren’t on the typical list of “what else should I replace while I’m in there”. I think it’s worth mentioning, but maybe not worth the expense of replacing.

But also, I noticed you had Rebuilt Splines (Beisan). What is that?

[sapote]

I did not remove the covers to check if the pistons were in their most rearward position. I'll do this on the weekend!

Most FORWARD positions.

[sapote]

When I did some VANOS maintenance recently, I had trouble perfecting the timing. I eventually just buttoned it up, gave up on a few degrees of accuracy. Drawing on decades of experience racing bicycles, it caught my attention there was ‘slack’ introduced by wear in the timing chain and timing sprockets. I see you’ve replaced the chain, but not the sprockets. They are extremely expensive…probably the reason why they aren’t on the typical list of “what else should I replace while I’m in there”. I think it’s worth mentioning, but maybe not worth the expense of replacing.

But also, I noticed you had Rebuilt Splines (Beisan). What is that?

Old chain/sprockets can cause noise and other issues, but not timing if the chain is tight on the pulling side and good tensioner.

[Vict0r]

When I did some VANOS maintenance recently, I had trouble perfecting the timing. I eventually just buttoned it up, gave up on a few degrees of accuracy. Drawing on decades of experience racing bicycles, it caught my attention there was ‘slack’ introduced by wear in the timing chain and timing sprockets. I see you’ve replaced the chain, but not the sprockets. They are extremely expensive…probably the reason why they aren’t on the typical list of “what else should I replace while I’m in there”. I think it’s worth mentioning, but maybe not worth the expense of replacing.

But also, I noticed you had Rebuilt Splines (Beisan). What is that?

Yes, I did change the sprockets too, but it is not visible in the photo. How the cylinder head was out, I took the opportunity to change the chain, all the tensioners and the camshaft sprockets. The only one I didn't change was the crankshaft.

I thought that the splined shafts could be twisted and perhaps could get stuck, and that's why I ordered the splined shafts of exchange with the Rattle kit installed (to discard this too...):

https://www.probsten-tech.de/produkt/e46-m3-z4m-doppelvanos-2x-zahnwelle-spielfrei-einstellen-antirassel/

[Vict0r]

Most FORWARD positions.

Yes, you are again right 😅

Old chain/sprockets can cause noise and other issues, but not timing if the chain is tight on the pulling side and good tensioner.

I changed the chain during changing the head gasket. When I changed the chain, I still didn't know what was coming... 😥

[sapote]

I thought that the splined shafts could be twisted and perhaps could get stuck, and that's why I ordered the splined shafts of exchange with the Rattle kit installed (to discard this too...):

It's impossible to have a twisted splined shaft unless the cam somehow locked up (on a damaged engine).

[Vict0r]

It's incredible...today I just did a vanos test with DIS (instead of Launch X431) and it passed the test.

After all the time and money I have invested in the VANOS, the fault was not there....😔😔😔😔😔

I will start to investigate where the fault could come from, because the car is running badly... 🙄:

[Cubieman]

Is that with the new vanos unit?
I *think* if the advance/retard response times are over 300ms it will fail the test, in a perfect world you would have 200ms response times or a bit under even.

My untouched 60k vanos unit had I believe a 204ms response time as its highest response time, once I did all the seals etc they did go up a bit unfortunately but still within spec.

Nice to see you got it going!

[maupineda]

S62 diaphragm springs slow down response

[Cubieman]

S62 diaphragm springs slow down response

Glad I stayed with the S54 diaphragms when I went through my little vanos debacle.

[Slideways]

It's incredible...today I just did a vanos test with DIS (instead of Launch X431) and it passed the test.

After all the time and money I have invested in the VANOS, the fault was not there....😔😔😔😔😔

I will start to investigate where the fault could come from, because the car is running badly... 🙄:

I'd expect a brand new VANOS unit to have lower response times, but those numbers look fine and are within spec. After the headgasket replacement, did you performed a leak down test with the engine at operating temp?

[Vict0r]

Is that with the new vanos unit?
I *think* if the advance/retard response times are over 300ms it will fail the test, in a perfect world you would have 200ms response times or a bit under even.

My untouched 60k vanos unit had I believe a 204ms response time as its highest response time, once I did all the seals etc they did go up a bit unfortunately but still within spec.

Nice to see you got it going!

Yes, this is with the new vanos. I also expect the lowest times but...
After I find the real fault with the car and have time, I will replace the vanos with the old one and put S54 springs again. This way we can see differences

S62 diaphragm springs slow down response

Yes, I think so too...bad choice

[Vict0r]

I'd expect a brand new VANOS unit to have lower response times, but those numbers look fine and are within spec. After the headgasket replacement, did you performed a leak down test with the engine at operating temp?

no, I didn´t. Maybe it's a good idea...!

The car doesn´t memorize any electrical faults. I will check the following things:

1) New gasoline filter (although it is relatively new, the car has been disassembled for about 2 or 3 months and when air enters it, it may become "stiffened" and does not send enough gasoline???)
2) any unwanted air entry?
3) balance and reset the throttle bodies?

I think I'm more lost now than at the beginning... 😰😰😰

[Slideways]

no, I didn´t. Maybe it's a good idea...!

The car doesn´t memorize any electrical faults. I will check the following things:

1) New gasoline filter (although it is relatively new, the car has been disassembled for about 2 or 3 months and when air enters it, it may become "stiffened" and does not send enough gasoline???)
2) any unwanted air entry?
3) balance and reset the throttle bodies?

I think I'm more lost now than at the beginning... 😰😰😰

You want to check if the engine at operating temperature is holding good compression and sealing on all cylinders. Poor performance and difficult warm startup could indicate a sealing issue in one or multiple cylinders. Compression and leak down test usually are the first things to check after reading the DME for simple fault codes.