Rear suspension refresh - thoughts on FCP Euro kit?

[Maxhouse97]

Hi All - I posted this a part of another thread but creating a new one here to get better exposure:

Im trying to plan a rear suspension refresh (need new shocks), what do folks think about this FCP kit, especially the Eibach arms? Otherwise does it look like everything needed?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-e46m3bushkit3

Also if anyone has a good DIY to recommend I would appreciate it. I see the FCP videos and a couple of others but if you have a favorite I will take your advice. Thanks.

[Halftim3]

I cant comment on the kit, but if you do go with that kit, i would add and do rear wheel bearings and axle boot kits while you're there. What's your mileage?
i went with F A G wheel bearings from FCP all around and the fronts were easy. The driver side rear was the most difficult. You have to drop the exhaust and v brace just enough to slide the axle out. I had a stuck axle and rented the axle puller from autozone and it worked perfect.
I also used a threaded rod and bolts from mcmaster.com to remove and install the new outer upper and lower ball joints and sdw rtabs. I have plenty of different sized sockets and washers to use to press the old and new ones in and out.
Here are the boot part numbers
33217840673
33217840674
And new axle nut part number: 33411133785.
I also order a $60 dollar bearing puller for the rear wheel bearings which worked perfectly.
the front axle nut was 46mm and the rear was 36mm if i remember correctly, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Fun project and well worth it as i feel a difference, but glad im done. HTH

[slavik1988]

I went with CMP solid rear subframe bushings with geometry correction. Then again, I went for the performance gains.

[Slideways]

How many miles does your car have on it?

I'd go for Lemforder ball joints over Meyle and there are better control arms at that price point; otherwise, just stick with stock.

[bavarian3]

as someone who's in the process of completing this project, you can really get crazy with it if you so desire. at a basic level, this kit is fine but you could save money with SPC camber arrms.

this is also missing swaybar bushings and end links if you wish to replace.

if you touch the diff, I would probably add new mounting bolts especially if you have older style rear bolts. new diff cover will be required if you want new bushings there. you could redo the seals but i opted to not touch them as mine were not leaking. it's easy to create problems from something that didn't exist.

other random little shit to consider:
gasket sealant gear oil specifc (i used bmw brand)
new diff drain plugs if you flush fluid, and fluid of course..
exhaust gaskets. nuts/bolts if corroded.
muffler hangers if drooping
driveshaft cv gasket
ollistamoly driveshaft and axle grease if you need to top it off
butyl tape for driveshaft csb(maybe not mandatory?)
cable clips for trailing arms, abs wheel sensor connector if degraded

[George Hill]

Personally I would trade out the Meyle parts for Lemforder. I don't have any data that says Meyle are bad, but Lemforder is listed as OE and have had good results from them.

If you are doing any hot rodding I would trade out the RTABs and limiters for the SDW mono balls, if not just use the bushings without limiters.

I would also add in E36 diff bushings to install into the diff cover (this kit doesn't address these bushings).

I've seen cars with these LCAs but don't have any direct experience with them, they are likely fine. But I would prefer the Ground Control LCAs with mono ball ends and outer adjustment jam nuts.

[bigjae46]

I would go with solid subframe bushings.

The arms are unnecessary for a street car. Stock arms are fine unless you like to do a lot of alignments.

As mentioned earlier - clean and repack the CVs. The aftermarket boot kit I got had the wrong size clamps for an M3...something to keep in mind.

Front pinion seal on the diff - I'd replace that since you have the pull the diff. Much easier with the diff out of the car.

[Nate047]

The consensus seems to be, do solid subframe mounts, and get some nice spherical RTABs. Those two items are not supposed to impact NVH in a negative way, and make things feel a bit more sturdy. Even with limiters, stock style RTABs move around and flex a little. The solid subframe mounts are also supposedly better so they do not move around at all and fatigue the RACP.

[Maxhouse97]

Thanks for the advice so far. Yes’s little more info about my car would be helpful. It is a 2004, 139k miles. 80/20 street/HPDE car. Refreshed the front this year and kept stock outside of Turner hybrid camber plates and Hotchkis sway bar. Would lean towards stock rubber bushings unless very little NVH penalty.