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    Rod knock after 500 miles

    I'm super annoyed that my engine is knocking after almost 500 miles. The initial start up of the engine had no rod knock. I would listen for any issues on startup every single time and no knocking. Heck, I barely had any flywheel chatter. Either way, ACL Race bearing were used with the M10 BMW bolts. The torque spec was following to the letter. Liquimoly was my initial oil I used for the initial start up. I drained it after everything warmed up up and sounded fine. I changed to TWS for driving along with the filter. When I cut open the second filter, there were a couple little flakes and glitter as expected. One thing I didn't expect was black chunks of what maybe looked like carbon. I'm hoping an oil gallery isn't clogged or the valve in the filter housing isn't messed up. Anyone have experience changing those?

    What I've inspected so far:
    Oil which had the bearing glitter in it
    Oil filter was the same with larger black chunks of carbon
    Valve clearances which were all good
    Cam bolts, none had backed out
    Timing chain was tight
    Knocks even with clutch engaged so that rules out chatter
    No oil leaks whatsoever
    No engine light, pending misfire code on cylinder 4
    Static compression was all around 170

    Here's the video:
    This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

    "Do it right once or do it twice"

    #2
    How do you know it's bearing glitter? There are a lot of factors that can cause mistakes.
    - Did you check bearing clearances with at the very least a plasti gauge to make sure you had the correct bearing clearance?
    - Did you install the rod caps in the correct orientation when intalling them back in? They are forged cracked so you have to install in the correct orientation they came out.

    Pull the oil pan out and re-inspect. Make sure the oil pick up pipe is installed correctly with a good o-ring to prevent loss of oil pressure and with locktite on the 10mm bolts so they dont back out.

    I also have ACL bearings, no issues.
    Last edited by enjoy_m3; 05-15-2020, 12:04 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      Oh man. Sorry for ur loss. I hope u didn't use a lot of rtv on ur oil pan. I have acl in mine. No issues
      385.7whp 288.8 wtq :
      -CSL airbox ( custom)
      -280 272 Cat cams
      -Custom SSV2, modified for a bigger collector
      -Custom Section 1 2 and 3: oversized to 2.5 inch and en E9xM Xpipe
      -TMS pullies
      -Electric Fan
      -HTE performance Tune :P

      PM for performance Tunes

      IG: https://www.instagram.com/hte_performance_tuning/

      Comment


        #4
        All is not lost yet except maybe my patience. Old bearings were pretty unscathed at 85k miles. I expected more wear. Sadly I didn't plastiguage them but I'm ordering some.
        When I cut the filter open, I find some small pieces in the filter that may have snuck in from the previous engine. The cornerning part to me was the large chunks or carbon that couldn't have come from the bearings.

        Copper glitter is a telltale sign of bearings failing. I could clearly see this through the oil on my black glove. I'm hoping that the crank is ok because I'm in quite a bit of money on this. The people I got the engine from are willing to still honor a warranty. I'm going to try to save this engine because it seemed solid. The oil pump never got touched while doing bearings so at this point, I don't think this is an assembly error. My theory at this point is oil starvation.
        This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
        https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

        "Do it right once or do it twice"

        Comment


          #5
          Sux OP, I know that you just got a new engine in your car...let us know the outcome.

          Comment


            #6
            That's why i said i hope u didn't use a lot of rtv. I've seen engines suck in rtv thru the oil pick up screen clogging it and causing oil starvation. Keep us posted
            385.7whp 288.8 wtq :
            -CSL airbox ( custom)
            -280 272 Cat cams
            -Custom SSV2, modified for a bigger collector
            -Custom Section 1 2 and 3: oversized to 2.5 inch and en E9xM Xpipe
            -TMS pullies
            -Electric Fan
            -HTE performance Tune :P

            PM for performance Tunes

            IG: https://www.instagram.com/hte_performance_tuning/

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
              When I cut the filter open, I find some small pieces in the filter that may have snuck in from the previous engine.
              From the previous engine? Did you reuse the filter?
              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                From the previous engine? Did you reuse the filter?
                Oh heck no. That filter was thrown out 8 months ago. I put a fresh filter in for the 20 minute warm up and then changed the filter again so this was the second filter. If I change oil, I change the filter, period. Hassan may be spot on with whatever that black crap was. I took that video with a THIRD filter and new oil yesterday. That has yet to be looked at but it's going to waste. Here's my reference diagram for oil flow and places to check. After looking through this, I'm leaning more towards a clearance problem. I'm just hoping I don't find a loose bolt. I called Lang and he said check for torque consistency between removing the bolts.

                This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                "Do it right once or do it twice"

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
                  Oh heck no. That filter was thrown out 8 months ago.
                  Okay good. I thought you meant you had reused the filter from your old engine lol.
                  2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                  2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                    Okay good. I thought you meant you had reused the filter from your old engine lol.
                    Oh man. That takes a special kind of stupidity 😂
                    This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                    "Do it right once or do it twice"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I’m sorry for your loss definitely interested to see what happens.
                      2005 ///M3 6MT Coupe Imola/M-Texture



                      Build Thread

                      Instagram

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                        #12
                        I appreciate you guys. Thankfully I have a supportive wife.
                        This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                        https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                        "Do it right once or do it twice"

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Those chunks you speak of. I had them in my oil cooler . They were large and appeared to be blavk, graphite like plastic. This was discovered when I pulled the oil cooler off the old engine (that blew) to send off for cleaning. I have no idea what it was or where it came from but I think it contributed to my spun bearing. Anyway, sorry dude. I just went through the swap and would legit push the car off a cliff if my bearings spun in 500 miles. I used ACL too, so far so good 4k in.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Did you clean the oil cooler prior to installing the new engine?
                            06 ZCP SMG | HTE CSL MAP QuaranTune | SL CSL Airbox | Eventuri Scoop | DMG Strut Bar | RE El Diablo | CPI Euro200R | AP Headers | Porsche BBK | ST XTA | TMS 3-Pulleys/F-Sway/Mono FCAB | AKG Trans/diff/Subframe/RTAB | SPL RCA | SGT SCZA Trunk | ACL | Beisan | Redish | AFD E85 |

                            Budget CSL MAP Conversion

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by COVID-19 View Post
                              Did you clean the oil cooler prior to installing the new engine?
                              Clearly not well enough. Looking at oil flow and considering my engine ran for maybe a second or two when blown so metal didn't circulate the oil system very much. Also, the oil filter blocks the cooler and nothing made it through the filter.
                              This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                              https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                              "Do it right once or do it twice"

                              Comment

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