Fitting 295/30/18 10.5 +22 on E46 M3

[dunkman23]

I was able to fit 295/30/19s on my 10 et 25 BBS LMs on Michelin PSS4s. It works with a slight roll and about a 2.5 degree camber if I recall. You will definitely need a very good alignment shop to help you. I wouldnt cut the fender, thats just me. Since those tires wore out, I decided to go with 285s. I didnt like the fact of the tire so close to the inner sidewall and the fender.

[Slideways]

I was able to fit 295/30/19s on my 10 et 25 BBS LMs on Michelin PSS4s. It works with a slight roll and about a 2.5 degree camber if I recall. You will definitely need a very good alignment shop to help you. I wouldnt cut the fender, thats just me. Since those tires wore out, I decided to go with 285s. I didnt like the fact of the tire so close to the inner sidewall and the fender.

The tire is showing a lot of rubbing in those pictures. The rubbing will expose bare metal on that rolled lip and start corroding depending on the environment. Better to cut, fold and seal it like on the CSL.

[bigjae46]

Post 22 and 23 on m3cutters - https://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/threa....203801/page-2

Thanks! I wouldn't mind welding the inner lip at all knowing it WILL mess up the paint. In this case, I really wonder if epoxy would be a better choice. I think I'd get another 3/4" if the lip is flat.

[Slideways]

Thanks! I wouldn't mind welding the inner lip at all knowing it WILL mess up the paint. In this case, I really wonder if epoxy would be a better choice. I think I'd get another 3/4" if the lip is flat.

Welding is not necessary. Just cut, fold, bond and protect. The paint will most likely get messed up a little, but it's a track car

[bigjae46]

Welding is not necessary. Just cut, fold, bond and protect. The paint will most likely get messed up a little, but it's a track car

🤣…if you saw my paint in person you’d realize this is the least of my worries! My paint color name is rock chip.

would the order of operation be primer then seam sealer or vice versa? IIRC, I had to prime the areas I scraped seam sealer from…I think.

But cutting the inner part of the lip off will make removing the seam sealer much easier.

[Slideways]

🤣…if you saw my paint in person you’d realize this is the least of my worries! My paint color name is rock chip.

would the order of operation be primer then seam sealer or vice versa? IIRC, I had to prime the areas I scraped seam sealer from…I think.

But cutting the inner part of the lip off will make removing the seam sealer much easier.

The factory did primer (e-coat), seam sealer and then paint from what I can tell. If you don't care much about the structure of the arch, you can probably save some time by just cutting the lip completely, that way you avoid the folding part, then sealing.

[Nate047]

I wonder though, if you did just cut the lip off completely, how long until the layers start to separate and it's visible on the 3/4 panel? If your tire ever touches the arch, like if you have wheel stud failure or a bad puncture, it could be bad news. If the lip is folded over itself, you might get a little protection. Dunno just sayin.

[9kracing]

I'm running 285/30/19 without rolled or modified fenders, on a 10" +20 wheel, and I feel like this is the absolute limit without running stupid camber. As it is I had to raise the car up a quarter inch from when I had 275s, and I think I'm around 2 degrees give or take.

[bigjae46]

I'm running 285/30/19 without rolled or modified fenders, on a 10" +20 wheel, and I feel like this is the absolute limit without running stupid camber. As it is I had to raise the car up a quarter inch from when I had 275s, and I think I'm around 2 degrees give or take.

I’m at -3.0 in the rear which yields even wear on track. Any less and I start murdering the outer edge. I also run about 1/2 the toe in vs stock.

I have a finger width with a 10”, et25 wheel and a 275 Toyo RR.

First things first, I want test fit a 10.5” wheel. I’d absolutely love to run a 295 tire. For NASA, I could optimize S/TT3 or S/TT4 with a simple tire/wheel change.

[bigjae46]

I wonder though, if you did just cut the lip off completely, how long until the layers start to separate and it's visible on the 3/4 panel? If your tire ever touches the arch, like if you have wheel stud failure or a bad puncture, it could be bad news. If the lip is folded over itself, you might get a little protection. Dunno just sayin.

Yeah, that is also a concern. I've been thinking about using 3M Panel Bond which is epoxy based and designed to bond metal panels together. I have to look and see how much of a gap between the inner and outer skin after cutting the inner lip off. If its not much of a gap then panel bond will probably be fine. Then if you roll the bottom of the outer skin against the inner skin and then bond it again, I don't see the panels separating.

Just thinking out loud, might be worth it to see if you can use a fender roller to push the inner skin outwards towards the other skin and then panel bond. Or...maybe the outer fender can be pushed out a little more to fit a 305 and then bond, fold, etch-prime!

My issue will be dealing with the body work that was done on the left rear quarter. Let's say it was race car quality work...lol

[Robnguyen0802]

265/35 front
295/30 rear

[bmw m3 s50]

265/35 front
295/30 rear

What are your wheel specs. Diameter, width and offset?

[silbergrau137]

What are your wheel specs. Diameter, width and offset?

I second this, are those E88's? Could we get another pic Rob? Robnguyen0802

[Stilt]

Not my car but he runs 18 x 10.5 et22, also states no rub.



If i recall correctly there is a whole thread about someone asking to fit 18x10.5 et22, which as you may suspect, turned into an argument lol.

Screen shot of someone’s post on the thread, this might be relevant.

[davidinnyc]

What's a shaved rear fender?

Inner lip on the rear fender is about a 0.65" thick and is sealed/joined with a thick rubberized compound to fill the "L" made between the fender wall and the lip. I had my rears shaved and the gentleman who did the work (incredible attention to detail) cut/shaved, rust-sealed, folded, and then seam sealed the inner fenders.

At least I think this is what shaved fenders means...