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Oil pump replacement/ rebuild consensus

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    #16
    At least you should remove and check the condition of the oil pump pressure regulator piston/cylinder/spring - worn or dirty can lead to low pressure or too high pressure if piston jammed.

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      #17


      Are the rumors true, that the Pierburg is the OE BMW pump with the BMW logo ground off






      Last edited by BL92; 03-05-2025, 11:26 PM.

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        #18
        Is there any detriment of having the DLC coating on the piston without the rest of the components being coated?

        I'm putting together my parts for my rod bearing change, didn't even know this existed. I was planning on just taking it apart and cleaning it but I like this item which is surely overkill.

        Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

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          #19
          Originally posted by WestBankM4 View Post
          Is there any detriment of having the DLC coating on the piston without the rest of the components being coated?

          I'm putting together my parts for my rod bearing change, didn't even know this existed. I was planning on just taking it apart and cleaning it but I like this item which is surely overkill.

          Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk
          You don't need it. DLC normally works good in combination with aluminium but what people tend to forget is that these aftermarket dlc coating are often not the best quality and therefore you're gonna run into problems with the ZDDP with your oil.
          The Pierburg pumps actually come with a coated piston and are in general the best way to go. + you don't have to clean the old part

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            #20
            ....

            [URL unfurl="true"]https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0533/1684/5721/files/Recall_1_of_2_SBI_110203.pdf?v=1692985494[/URL]


            SIB110203




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              #21
              Originally posted by BL92 View Post

              Are the rumors true, that the Pierburg is the OE BMW pump with the BMW logo ground off






              ^yes

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                #22
                Originally posted by S54B32 View Post
                There is also a coated replacement piston from bmw available for something like 60€. Posted the measurements somewhere some time ago here. But often when the piston is heavily worn/scored the pump is beyond repairable. Price of a pierburg unit is around 400€. At this price, it's not worth playing with the risk of a new crank in my opinion.
                Do you have a part number for this replacement piston?

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by bmwfnatic View Post
                  Can you kindly re link ? Link times out

                  Mines been out before, the bolts are stripped
                  Does this mean it's a 2010?

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by BL92 View Post

                    Can you kindly re link ? Link times out

                    Mines been out before, the bolts are stripped
                    Does this mean it's a 2010?

                    That is fairly normal. My guess is some of the dealership techs were ripping through the bearing service and they accidentally partially rounded out some of the oil pump bolts and/or e-torx for the bearing caps. New BMW bolts are torx and are not as easy to round out like the old hex version.

                    That looks like a serial number. Date stamps are usually in the casting or engraved for parts like this.

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                      #25
                      04 to 06, used a telfon coated, aluminum piston that didn't work at all, that is why 04 to 06 are more likely to spin shells

                      latest 2015 update has a diamond coated piston


                      Source, should automatically start at 36min mark



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                        #26
                        Originally posted by BL92 View Post
                        04 to 06, used a telfon coated, aluminum piston that didn't work at all, that is why 04 to 06 are more likely to spin shells

                        latest 2015 update has a diamond coated piston


                        Source, should automatically start at 36min mark


                        There is an option to refurb the pump with a DLC piston from these Burkhart Engineering

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                          #27
                          Hrmph, I just did RBs and didn't touch the oil pump (left it in which made cyl 1 a total pain) and now wondering if I should have. My car did have SIB110203 done, though, so does that mean the oil pump they put in as a replacement is a "good one"?

                          Also the bolts on my oil pump are stripped to shit, which contributed to my decision to not touch it.. why were the BMW techs all so sloppy with this?

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
                            Hrmph, I just did RBs and didn't touch the oil pump (left it in which made cyl 1 a total pain) and now wondering if I should have. My car did have SIB110203 done, though, so does that mean the oil pump they put in as a replacement is a "good one"?

                            Also the bolts on my oil pump are stripped to shit, which contributed to my decision to not touch it.. why were the BMW techs all so sloppy with this?
                            I hate those hex head bolts. I maybe try using a torx bit to get those out, they seem less likely to round out the hex.

                            I like to remove the pump and at least inspect the impellers.

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
                              Hrmph, I just did RBs and didn't touch the oil pump (left it in which made cyl 1 a total pain) and now wondering if I should have. My car did have SIB110203 done, though, so does that mean the oil pump they put in as a replacement is a "good one"?

                              Also the bolts on my oil pump are stripped to shit, which contributed to my decision to not touch it.. why were the BMW techs all so sloppy with this?
                              I couldn't get my oil pump out, the centre nut would just rotate with the engine, ( CounterClockwise )The muppets at the dealership must of loctite the nut on, so i just carried on with RBs with the oil pump still in

                              I removed the cap on 1, pushed the piston up, rotated the engine to move the crank out of the way then pulled the piston down to get the top bearing off / on.

                              how did you do number 1 ?

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