Tested and Ready 70° and 75° Thermostat

[Anri]

Hey Anri,

Don't know if this was covered but with the 70 degree tstat where does the temp needle sit on the gauge cluster?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hi,

Usually the needle sits around 2mm past the dot on the temp gauge.
Make sure your AC condenser is free of bugs and also Sachs fan clutch,
to take full advantages. Just buy those OBD ports from online and you can
plug it to OBD port and your phone and you can monitor the temp while you
are driving.

Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

Did you get the Motorad? I ordered the Motorad 880060 as Gates 33576 and its huge. Comparison in picture. Left is S54, right is Gates 33576.

Sancho,

The T-Stat on the right is from E39M5/E34M5.


The Motorad is garbage brand which is not operating as advertised.
I have tested them many times and they never ever open at the advertised
Celsius.


Let alone that tons of people from other car manufacturer ended up with
stuck closed thermostat which you don't with our BMWs...You don't want
to play cheap in this area believe me...


I will say it again, I DO NOT USE Motorad garbage as some people may possibly
think I do.

[Anri]

Sachs Brand I believe is NLA for our cars. that is not good. They sell like a
hot bread...I don't know why Sachs no longer makes those....

Behr is not my cup of tea.

Hunt for Sachs Fan clutch left over in parts stores NOS (new old stock) I am sure they are out there
sitting on shelf.

[Tonggi]

Thanks for sharing your experience, its for sure win win.

I have mentioned times and times that the t stat will NOT change the peak
temp at the race track. But but but it will prolong/delays the heat soak ones
you begin the session which allows you to buy more laps.


Fan clutch with early engagement+bugs free AC condenser is must.

Regards
Anri

agreed, it definitely delays the peak temps by 1 lap or 2 depending on the track. But on the street it takes longer to warm up esp in the FL heat.

[MathewM3]

Gents,

To each to our won for sure on this one.
Not very constructive replies..

Inline 6 cylinder engine Cast Iron block
is waaaaay too long.

When the cooled water from the radiator
enters from the cylinder 1 it takes the heat
up to cylinder 3 aka Bank-1

Starting from Bank-2, 4-6, the water already
took the heat from Bank-1. Now Bank-2
has Hot water to work with and its no longer
cool when it entered the block.

Factory design water pump impeller and
pulley ratios are designed to work at 8000rpm
without making Cavitation, this is the concentration
I am sure we all agree on this one. Mechanical
pump are always concentrated to work at hi rpm
and low rpms are always compromised. (this is
were the Electrical water pump is priceless one
can adjust the flow at low speed to move the
water faster)

Lower range of RPM is compromised when
the water is slowed down tremendously and
thus why Bank-2 works always hot vs Bank-1

Obvious reason why BMW moved to step water
temp gauge starting from E32/E34. On the E24
E28 when the temp raised degree by degree I can see it
on the gauge..I can see when the clutch engages and
brings the temps down...isn't that obvious ? all the S54
cylinder head gaskets are always burned at Bank-2 okay
not talking about the ones that suffered damages
via detonation.

Why BMW put the EGT sensor on Bank-2 not Bank-1 ?
Bank-2 runs always hot

The Block Deck height on S54 is 217.5mm+/-
How come no one talks about that BMW Motorsport
raised the Floor by around 15-17mm ? (I have to look at my notes)
its to increase the rigidity in the main bearings
area by taking some space form the water bath.

On S38 at the same deck height of 217.5mm the water
bath is deeper down by those 15-17mm is what I am
comparing with so they did good on block from 1965
but went backward on 2000 engine block.

With connecting rod ratio of 1.52 the siamesed
bores do receive a lot of heat and with the combo
of 8000rpm for sure its Heat-Bomb

How come no one talks about that the EGT from
the headers which easily reaches ~850/~1000F/ 590°C or
so are located around no more than 1 finger away
from the block, fantastic, you have 900F radiant heat
going directly to the cast iron heat sponge.

I will provide very deep detail data on Jonathan's
freshly put S54 together, you will see.

Starting from Jonathans M3 I am including this in every
engine build.

All arguments and debates are all welcomed.

Regards,
Anri

Would you recommend heat wrap or ceramic heat powder coating for the headers to keep the radiation heat lower?

[ac427]

Thanks for sharing your experience, its for sure win win.

I have mentioned times and times that the t stat will NOT change the peak
temp at the race track. But but but it will prolong/delays the heat soak ones
you begin the session which allows you to buy more laps.


Fan clutch with early engagement+bugs free AC condenser is must.

Regards
Anri

Hi Anri, Thanks for the thermostat.

What do you mean by "bugs free AC condenser"

[Cronenberged]

Hi Anri, Thanks for the thermostat.

What do you mean by "bugs free AC condenser"

Meaning clean the bugs out of fins

[ac427]

Meaning clean the bugs out of fins

Thanks but what how does the AC Condenser affect engine temperature?

[Cronenberged]

Thanks but what how does the AC Condenser affect engine temperature?

Sits forward of your radiator so if it’s dirty or clogged it will restrict air flow and your car won’t cool as efficiently.

[samthejam]

I have been waiting for mine to ship since May 9th. I have been following up once a week.. beware for anyone ordering. Usually don't like to put people on blast but this is getting ridiculous.

Edit: Just got tracking #

[oceansize]

I have been waiting for mine to ship since May 9th. I have been following up once a week.. beware for anyone ordering. Usually don't like to put people on blast but this is getting ridiculous.

Anri is a super busy dude, took a while for mine, but I got it.

Fair enough point made though, just don't want anyone thinking he doesn't do what he promises. Anri is legit.

[Anri]

Anri is a super busy dude, took a while for mine, but I got it.

Fair enough point made though, just don't want anyone thinking he doesn't do what he promises. Anri is legit.

Thanks for your kind words. I have way too much on my plate with my current custom project, usually I wait till I get bulk
of parts to ship at ones, otherwise I will be at the post office every day....

I think you asked if I still have those for offer, yes still do.


Regards,
Anri.

[Anri]

Would you recommend heat wrap or ceramic heat powder coating for the headers to keep the radiation heat lower?

I always say "Every little helps" it will help to keep the radiant heat away from the block for sure.

I have done/tested every header coating on the market including Swain-Tech which I use only for look to be honest. Nothing
can beat heat shield or header wrap...I mean no coating in existence can get near to that efficiency.

If coating is a must, Swain-Tech is my choice over the rest. Also the silver header shield work very well as well with very clean look.

Regards
Anri