Weird Intermittent Starting Issues

[jpy1980]

I’m having some weird starting issues and don’t know if they are related.

randomly when starting the car I’ve been hearing a loud squeak/screech like sound the moment the engine cranks over. Once the engine is on and running everything is perfectly fine. Happened 3 times this past month. took it to my shop today and they think it could be belt related. Didn’t tell my shop about the next issue as it happened after I got back home from the shop.

also, only about twice during my ownership of the car (8ish months) the engine would continually crank but not start. Usually not during a cold start but after being driven awhile and then parked for a couple of hours. Trying to give the car gas during the cranking doesn’t help. I then proceed to stop trying to crank it, take the key out and then put the key in and out starts right up.

since these are starting issues I’m not sure if they are related but maybe?

I’ll try and get a video but since it’s so intermittent, I’ll just need to try and record every one of my starts haha

any insight is appreciated.

[ChapterM3]

Issue 1 - squeak/screech - does this happen in certain temperatures or humidity? In your own opinion, does it sound like a belt or more mechanical, say like a starter going out?

Issue 2 - continuous crank, no start - this sounds fuel-related or say a crank position sensor on the fritz. It died on me in traffic one day and then did exactly as you described, and it started right back up. That turned out to be the crank position sensor.

Questions back to you -
- Are you getting any codes regardless of a CEL or not?
- Can you describe any maintenance done in these areas?

[sapote]

That turned out to be the crank position sensor.

Finally someone had a bad crank sensor!

I thought this never could happen bc the crank sensor is not Hall sensor but an inductor coil and magnet which are almost non-destructable.

How did you verify that the sensor was bad?

[sapote]

1. randomly when starting the car I’ve been hearing a loud squeak/screech like sound the moment the engine cranks over.

2. also, only about twice during my ownership of the car (8ish months) the engine would continually crank but not start.

3. since these are starting issues I’m not sure if they are related but maybe?

1. do you have to turn off the key and crank again to have the engine running? If yes then maybe the starter solenoid/Bendic is going bad.
2. did you try with another key? Could be ews and DME synching issue. Use inpa to read the ews status
3. they are not related.

[Mr.wReckless]

Does anyone know if the OEM fuel pump assembly has an integrated one way valve? To me the starting issue too sounds a lot like fuel issue. Have you tried turning the key to position 2 a couple of times not trying to start it to see if you can force the fuel pump relay active and see if this helps before you crank? You could also investigate about swapping the fuel pump relay in the trunk.

I've also had the screech you talk about, and I've swapped out a lot of parts, flywheel and clutch assembly is new, starter is new, alternator is new, belts are new and most of the idler pulleys are new but I wonder still if it's a bad bearing on some of the pulleys that are old, say air con or power steering..

Regards

[sapote]

Pump has check valve. Regardless of valve leaking or not, prime the pump then crank should fire up .

[ChapterM3]

Finally someone had a bad crank sensor!

I thought this never could happen bc the crank sensor is not Hall sensor but an inductor coil and magnet which are almost non-destructable.

How did you verify that the sensor was bad?

There were no codes until I drove it a bit more and then it came back with the P0335 error code "Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit."

[jpy1980]

Thanks for all the responses guys. I’ll actually try and hookup my code reader thingy to see if anything pops up. If it’s a crankshaft position sensor that would be great as it looks like an easy fix. I hope it’s not the starter. Starter looks like a B to take out.

so far both scenarios have not come up again.

now when I start the car, I put it the key to the second position, leave it there for a sec and then start it. Then say alil prayer that everything’s fine and start it up. Haha

[Mr.wReckless]

Thanks for all the responses guys. I’ll actually try and hookup my code reader thingy to see if anything pops up. If it’s a crankshaft position sensor that would be great as it looks like an easy fix. I hope it’s not the starter. Starter looks like a B to take out.

so far both scenarios have not come up again.

now when I start the car, I put it the key to the second position, leave it there for a sec and then start it. Then say alil prayer that everything’s fine and start it up. Haha

Starter isn't that horrible, with a 3/8ths ratchet with a swivel head you can break the bolts loose, after that a 10mm on a 1/4 ratchet to more easily get the bolts out, both at the same time due to the space constraints.

Regards

[sapote]

There were no codes until I drove it a bit more and then it came back with the P0335 error code "Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit."

Did you verify the sensor was actually bad?
its output should generate a sinusoidal signal when a screwdriver passing its tip for a working sensor.

[jpy1980]

Just plugged my OBD reader thing and it said no codes.

well I’ll check again after it happens again.

[ChapterM3]

Did you verify the sensor was actually bad?
its output should generate a sinusoidal signal when a screwdriver passing its tip for a working sensor.

Nope, got a new sensor in and kept on driving - the issue never came back nor did the code

[jpy1980]

what are you guys using to read codes?

[sapote]

Nope, got a new sensor in and kept on driving - the issue never came back nor did the code

I’m thinking the issue could be bad connection and not the sensor.
easier way to test the sensor: measure its two pins resistance - open circuit is bad.

[sapote]

what are you guys using to read codes?

I use Inpa or Veepeak. But Inpa can read the EWS status to verify if there is any issue of communication between EWS and DME.

I don't think this's related to bad crank sensor; if it's bad there should be the red Service Engine Soon light.

Could you answer post #4?