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Amplifier Upgrade - JL Audio 300/4v3

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    Amplifier Upgrade - JL Audio 300/4v3

    I'm currently running an Avin Avant 4 headunit, Bavsound speakers, and I have a dedicated sub amp and subwoofer. This is in an HK car.

    I did a bunch of reading, and it seems like this amp will work with my Bavsound speakers? I'd need 2 of them.

    Unfortunately there's really nothing out there that's "plug and play" and low cost in your application, at least that we're aware of. Because of the configuration of our speakers (i.e. no crossover network), you'll need something that you can run as an "active" setup -- that is, each speaker needs its own channel on the amp, and the amplifier needs to be capable of running high pass filters and band pass filters, and should be relatively low power since our speakers are designed for the lower power of the factory amplifier.

    In addition, the amplifier in question needs to be stable down to 1.6 Ohms (for the midbass speakers) and shouldn't produce any additional power at lower impedances. The only amp which fits ALL of these characteristics is JL Audio's Slash series:

    For nearly half a century, JL Audio has produced outstanding audio products engineered to deliver world-class sound for the most demanding customers.


    You could use two of these to power the entire system.​
    I'm just going to split my RCAs out of the Avin, and plug in all 3 amps, correct?

    Is anyone running this setup?

    I like this route, because once I figure out what aftermarket speakers to go with, I can just leave the amps and they should work fine with pretty much any impedance speaker, yeah?
    2004 Dinan S3-R M3
    2023 X3M Competition

    #2
    Not running this setup. I run a Dynavin and only one 4-channel amp for the cabin to BavSound speakers w/separate mono SW amp. You're looking for a full active setup, which is why 2 amps?

    If so, I'd probably just go with one 8 channel DSP amp rather than splitting the RCA's. Like this... https://www.jlaudio.com/products/vx8...plifiers-98633

    Sure it costs more but active setups either (1) aren't cheap; or (2) sound cheap and are the most expensive headaches you'll ever buy. I would never trust any Avin to run an active setup. Even here, the JLAudio is going to spotlight all of the sonic weaknesses of your head unit. Hence, the DSP.

    But this way, it'll be the last amp you need, no matter what speakers you decide to use. I don't find myself looking for more power running 4x75w to the cabin, although I do consider moving from 2 amps to one (run a single 5/6 channel amp and bridge to the SW). The Dynavin doesn't need the DSP in my opinion.

    In any event try to minimize how much SQ you lose by splitting the cords or adding components. Every extra step in the audio path is a loss of sound quality.

    $.02

    maw

    EDIT, here's another one ... https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136982...l?cc=02&tp=115 ... but (you didn't ask me this) I can't imagine you'll ever need that much power in a Coupe. Mine is pretty obnoxious in a convertible, and top up I barely get to move the volume knob.
    Last edited by maw1124; 03-26-2024, 08:11 AM.

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      #3
      Why wouldn't you trust Avin to run an active setup?

      The advantage of the amplifier I posted is that is stable down to 1.5 ohms, and it also puts out the same wattage regardless of impedance. Also has active crossovers on the amp. I was able to find them for under $300 shipped, so we're talking $1000 less than the amp you posted.

      The JL X600 sub amp I'm running has pre-outs, so I'd only be splitting the RCA one time, I don't think it'll be a big deal.
      2004 Dinan S3-R M3
      2023 X3M Competition

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        #4
        Originally posted by 9kracing View Post
        Why wouldn't you trust Avin to run an active setup?

        The advantage of the amplifier I posted is that is stable down to 1.5 ohms, and it also puts out the same wattage regardless of impedance. Also has active crossovers on the amp. I was able to find them for under $300 shipped, so we're talking $1000 less than the amp you posted.

        The JL X600 sub amp I'm running has pre-outs, so I'd only be splitting the RCA one time, I don't think it'll be a big deal.
        Go for it, let us know how it works out.

        A grand is a grand, buys a lot of speakers. What do you have in mind for speakers?

        Spend some of the savings on sound deadening unless you like the engine noise in the cabin. It's kind of like room treatments for your home setup -- some do it, some can't see why.

        maw

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          #5
          Originally posted by maw1124 View Post
          What do you have in mind for speakers?
          Well that's what lead to all this. I was looking to replace my bavsound speakers, but there doesn't seem to be a ton that fits our cars and looks factory. I had my eye on the Focal PS 165 F3E, but some people have confirmed it doesn't fit.

          So, I decided to run some real, clean power to the bavsounds, and see what I think first. It's possible they are satisfactory once I get a real amp to them. The problem is I have the HK bavsound system, and some of those speakers are 3 ohms.

          So, I like these JL slash amps, in that it doesn't matter if it's 1.5 or 4 ohms, the amp puts out 75 watts. So, if and when I do decide to replace the bavsound speakers, it should be a basic swap, and the amp won't care that I changed impedance.

          2004 Dinan S3-R M3
          2023 X3M Competition

          Comment


            #6
            Yeah, you've thought that through well.

            I haven't found anything yet, but I haven't looked either. Mine was an HK system as well, but Convertible not Coupe, so handle mid-tweets. 85x4, clean from Dynavin into BavSound through my Hertz amp with the mono Rockford running the BavSound SW has been fine enough that I haven't bothered. But I'm not running active either. Can't see why I need that. The handle mid-tweets are singing along nicely so why disturb them? I certainly don't want to be on the hunt for some 2" mid to stick in there.

            My first Dynavin (D99, circa 2009 maybe) wasn't clean, and I found that out as soon as I put an amp on it (Hertz 85x4). Running through the factory HK equalization gimmickry, it was just fine though not powerful enough. But as soon as I put it on a clean amp all hell broke loose -- noise, distortion and shrill sound that no one could get rid of. It was unlivable. Dynavin N7 Pro fixed that. Bechtel gave me a great discount on it because he knew the D99 was never gonna work for the direction I was going, and he was probably tired of me complaining to him and throwing money at it. He was also at the time convincing the Dynavin folks they wanted an audio device with connectivity not a connectivity device with sh*t audio.

            EDIT... here I'll note that Avin has not one single audio spec listed for their devices.

            The problem as I see it is you really only have two choices in this car (or any of these factory systems for that matter, and I've upgraded all mine but one, which goes under the knife next). A "blended" system where any old chinesium head unit running through the factory amplification gimmickry sounds "good enough" but only so. This works for 80% of the people out there I would guess, maybe 90%. Or a purist set up that takes care of the audio signal path beginning to end, with quality components throughout, etc. Once you put a quality aftermarket amplifier in the chain, you've chosen the second option whether you know it or not. And for that second option, NOTHING is more important than the source. Amplified sh*t sound is still sh*t sound. Based on my experience, I'm skeptical the Avin units are up to that challenge. I might be wrong, but I am skeptical. I think this is only going to be made worse by running full active -- more channels to chase sh*t sound.

            So since you've chosen the second option, take care of the signal from the beginning, and that probably means a better head unit. Yes, I said better, not different (an audio first device). I'd also suggest sound deadening, and don't worry about the speakers until you have to. There are more options now than there were. Eventually someone will make something better that fits. The people who I have seen make full active work, given the impedance limitations and speaker placement tradeoffs inherent with these factory setups, have done so using the JLAudio DSP amps, and pretty much any speaker that fits. Maybe you've found a better way -- a grand is a grand.

            My $.02 thinking anyway. People think this is about amp + speakers, but it's really about source + amp.

            maw

            EDIT... this guy found some speakers that worked without too much surgery for the cabin... https://youtu.be/Eh-PR9M4gxk?si=FNFVFomLuhArW9r_ Notice he also changed the source.
            Last edited by maw1124; 03-26-2024, 07:08 PM.

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