Can't decide whether to do headers or not

[bavarian3]

Context: I'm the biggest sucker for while you're in there so this is standard, but I'm in the middle of a rod bearing job that's also including a complete coolant system rebuild. With the subframe and everything else out, things are looking reaally easy to get to header wise. I wasn't planning to do headers right now, but seeing how much easier they are to get to it has me thinking to pick up a set before buttoning things back up.

Few questions:
-how much worse is the job if starting from fully assembled and doing everything from the top?
-for california folks, are doing headers worth it to you? power wise? i'm expecting to be able to smog with HJS cats, otherwise I have no interest in swapping for smog.

All advice is appreciated.

[EthanolTurbo]

Very worth it and sounds way better. I have a set of OEM Euro headers for sale if you want a quality set.

[Mr.wReckless]

I think I did my headers mostly from below with the reinforcement plate removed, but it would be even easier without the subframe there. There is a coolant hardline from the expansion tank that needs removing and at least some coolant to drain in order to do so to get access to the heat shield over the headers so there is that to keep in mind if you skip the job now and do it later. Some of the nuts for the headers are a bit finicky but it wasn't as bad a job as I thought it would be. A small swivel head 11mm would be beneficial, also a ratchet with lots of teeth for the tight spots where you can't get a lot of angle on the ratchet..

Regards

[Altaran]

Header job usually takes 7 to 9 hours as diy without subframe dropped. For a professional mechanic it's less.

Headers will give you power, especially with HJS cats and proper tune. Headers are the reason us car is rated at 333hp and euro version at 343.

I recommend going with Supersprint stepped headers. Best option for usable power, aside from some some exotic versions.

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[SQ13]

I posted some install tips in post #28. IMO OE Euro and SSV1 headers are easy to install, as long as you have the right tools.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/175598-ssv1-system-install-questions-first-timer

[M3ZCPNYC]

do it!

[digger]

Header job usually takes 7 to 9 hours as diy without subframe dropped. For a professional mechanic it's less.

Headers will give you power, especially with HJS cats and proper tune. Headers are the reason us car is rated at 333hp and euro version at 343.

I recommend going with Supersprint stepped headers. Best option for usable power, aside from some some exotic versions.

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He should definitely do headers as while the euro is 338hp sae (343 din) the difference seems to be larger than stated

[jpy1980]

Question for you header folks.

would changing out the oem header to a catless header and catted section 1 be the same sound as an oem header with stock section one? Meaning isn’t it the same in regards to sound if you’re running cats even though it’s downstream a bit?

[Altaran]

No, headers will change your sound characteristics, depending on which ones you get. If I recall correctly it will also get slightly more raspy, as you loose the resonator found in the us spec section one.

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[Cubieman]

I you do go the header route my personal opinion would be to get euro headers/cats IF you don't care about chasing horsepower and just want a different sound a more power as well.
The euro pieces are kind of a cool item to have in general I think, I will forever regret selling mine.

I sometimes regret going from Euro>SSV1 just because the Euro setup sounded better imo and for what I do the extra HP gains were not necessarily worth the additional cost of an SS exhaust.

I paid $1200 for euro headers/cats shipped, granted this was before the prices went up, specifically on the cats.

If not doing a euro setup or similar than Supersprint is the way.

[D-O]

Is a tune worth it if all you have done is upgrade the exhaust?

[bavarian3]

Appreciate all the feedback everyone! Now working to get my hands on a set.

One thing I'm not clear on from searching on this forum is how folks handle the post-cat o2's. Does everyone delete and code em' out?

-How is it handled if catless
-How is it handled if having HJS cats welded into stock section 1

[Ramps]

When i had euro cats i left everything in place and working, no CEL or anything for the 10 years i used them. I switched to HJS and had to turn the egt and post cat o2 off to avoid random cat efficiency codes, catless would require them off as well.