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SSV1 System Install Questions - First Timer

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    SSV1 System Install Questions - First Timer

    Alright, in preparation for tackling my SSV1 system install (full catted race system)--first time doing this job--I've been gathering all new fasteners, gaskets, sensors, etc. and watching any videos I can find, as well as reading through this forum for instruction/tips/tricks, etc. I think I'm good to go overall, with understanding and tools, a Bentley manual, this forum, and so on...except for a few technicalities I'd like to put out to this forum for answers to.

    Generally speaking, a strategy of soaking fasteners in PB Blaster and then breaking them all loose, then dropping S3, then S1/S2 together, then pulling the manifolds seems the logical way. My car is a 2003, all original exhaust parts, but no salt exposure/serious corrosion.

    Below are those particular items in question that I'm unsure of with many thanks for insight from those who have done this job and can knowledge share!

    STOCK SYSTEM REMOVAL:

    Header Removal:
    1) Acceptable to soak these nuts with PB blaster, or is that the point of copper nuts?
    2) Acceptable to re-use studs that do not come out? In other words, no need to replace due to flange size, etc.
    3) For studs that do come out, is it acceptable to use (N55 studs) 11127593376 w/SSV1 headers? Do these studs insert completely into the head despite the bolt shoulder?
    4) Is the ideal removal sequence to pull bank 2, then bank 1?
    5) Surface prep on the head (cleaning, copper exhaust sealant?)
    6) Manifold nuts seem to be a hand tool-only removal. (e.g., 1/4 breaker)
    7) Apply anti-sieze to new/re-inserted studs? Seems to be differing opinions on this from what I've found.
    8) Is it necessary to remove the pre-O2s from the manifolds in order to get them out, or can I just leave them in? I'm not reusing them.

    Sec1/Sec2/Sec3:
    1) Remove Sec3
    2) Remove Sec1/Sec2 together

    SSV1 INSTALLATION:

    Headers:
    1) Remove stickers
    2) Install (new) pre-02s before install, or after (seems after)?
    3) Application of copper exhaust sealant to flanges and/or gaskets and/or head?
    4) Temp locate Bank 1 then introduce Bank 2; need someone up top to guide them
    a) Tighten 1 nut (loose) on each header noting
    b) Is there a correct manifold nut tightening sequence?
    c) Final tighten all 18 (re-check later)
    5) Manifold gasket orientation? I'm using OE BMW gaskets here.

    Sec1/Sec2/Sec3:
    1) Install S1 & S2 together first, then lift into position and connect to headers? Or install S1 to headers and work rearward? Or...?
    2) Install post O2s to S1 prior to install to headers? Some say to do this as they can't be installed once Sec1 is in place.
    3) Do the OE rubber mounts and hardware (specifically, hangers) on S2 and S3 all work on the SS pieces?
    4) As far as anti-seize on fasteners, gaskets, and the headers to Sec1 slip joint, am I to apply exhaust sealant, or regular anti-seize, etc.?

    I'm sure I have more questions, but right now in planning that's where I'm at. Thanks to all that contribute here, especially carrying over the old M3F content for reference!

    #2
    Header Removal:
    1) Yes. TIS says to replace copper nuts, but most reuse them
    2) Yes
    3) Reinstall stock for V1s if they back out
    4) Feed them out together and at a certain point bank 2 will want to come out first
    5) No need as the OE gaskets do not stick to the head
    6) 1/4 ratchet with wobble extension
    7) TIS calls for copper anti-seize on the studs where the nuts go to help remove the nuts later on (nothing on the studs themselves into the head)
    8) No

    Sec1/Sec2/Sec3:
    1) Yes
    2) Yes

    SSV1 INSTALLATION:

    Headers:
    1) Yes
    2) Before
    3) Not needed
    4) Help is mostly needed to keep the gasket in place while installing the headers, or the gasket can be held in place by the thread on the studs
    a) Keep copper nuts somewhat loose while positioning the section 1
    b) No
    c) Final tighten all 18 (re-check later)
    5) Flat metal side facing the head

    Sec1/Sec2/Sec3:
    1) Together puts less strain on the headers as the section 2 mount keeps the section 1 cats mounted to the chassis
    2) Yes
    3) Yes
    4) TIS says copper anti-seize paste on new copper manifold nuts. Exhaust sealant on section 1 not necessary and makes reinstalling section 1 later on annoying as that old sealant has to be cleaned up

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the reply Slideways!

      Comment


        #4
        I would soak them in penetrant, the day before.
        Undo the exhaust manifold nuts with the engine as warm as you can tolerate.

        Comment


          #5
          Move your expasion tank, and unbolt that metal coolant hose.

          Get a deadblow hammer for mating the section 1 to the headers.

          Always have extra studs and nuts on hand. If nut are original, I would replace all of them. Studs are fine to be reused.

          My sec 3 is 11lbs so I didn't worry about removing it however, it will be alot easier to install sec 1 and 2 together without the muffler. Sec 1 and 2 go together out of the car.

          Buy Elring, HJS, or BMW gaskets. Anything else will rust and fall apart. I bought Victor Reinz and they rusted from the inside, in a sealed bag, over the course of a few months.

          You may need to glue gaskets to the headers with some adhesive. Headliner adhesive works. Gasket glue is proper but more expensive.

          Don't pull a breaker bar towards you as it may slip off a bolt and cause you to need stitches.

          Buy this set. It doesn’t come with an 11mm or 12mm which you will need. I didn't use a swivel because I hate them.

          GEARWRENCH 35 Piece 1/4inch Drive MicroDriver Set - 85035 https://a.co/d/8Ba22Ra

          This is the perfect time to do the pressure relief valve on the side of the block. The valve can fail and the oring is notorious for leaking.
          Last edited by Arith2; 07-16-2022, 03:13 AM.
          This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
          https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

          "Do it right once or do it twice"

          Comment


            #6
            Did this last winter and added some tips here based on my first-time go at it: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...t-installation
            2006 M3 ZCP coupe, jet black on black, 6 speed
            2001 325xi wagon, red on beige, 5 speed

            Comment


              #7
              This is also a most excellent tool set to have around. 5 thru 15mm flex sockets

              Astro Pneumatic Tool 7412 12-Piece 1/4" Drive Flex Socket Set - 6 Point - Metric



              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

              Comment


                #8
                Great advice here, thank you!. Can anyone comment on a required tightening sequence for each manifold to the head? Similar to VCG working from the center, outward.

                Great advice on the universal sockets; I don't have those in my tool box. I do have the Gearwrench kit, used that years ago getting the radiator fan shroud off, among other things.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
                  Great advice here, thank you!. Can anyone comment on a required tightening sequence for each manifold to the head? Similar to VCG working from the center, outward.
                  No need. Just hold the headers flat against the head with a couple nuts and then tighten whatever nut you can get to first. Torque spec is low enough that it isn't even worth tightening to a lower torque first.
                  2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                  2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You're not bolting down a cylinder head lol. Only concern is the alignment to the section 1 pipes.
                    Last edited by Slideways; 07-17-2022, 04:46 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Bumping this to inquire about manifold O2 sensor connections on the V1s. Two bungs are provided, and the question is, how to plug the unused bung in each manifold? I do have the catted section 1s and plan to run O2s, and could use the bung caps provided there--but curious what others have done on the manifold side to plug the extra O2 bung.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        That's what I did (same setup). You can also find bung caps online.

                        Mike
                        02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
                        11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
                        16 X5

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I used a standard O2 sensor bung plug from Auto Zone.

                          And for the future...mix acetone and ATF 50/50 to use as a penetrant. Works better than PB blaster.​

                          Comment


                            #14
                            It’s a good time to install a wideband O2 sensor instead of a bung or two! You’ll thank yourself later when you inevitably want a tune.

                            For the SSV1s, the pre-cat O2 sensors should be in the forward most bungs so that the harness is long enough to clip into place.

                            pro-tip: bolting a .063” plate between the inner two section 1-2 fasteners will eliminate the vibration at idle and 2-3k RPM with the SSV1 headers/cats
                            Click image for larger version  Name:	6399EA19-BBF6-4696-A4CA-2282C438E00B.jpg Views:	0 Size:	141.9 KB ID:	195004 Click image for larger version  Name:	594485F8-B7F7-4E5F-9497-A0F4950EFE75.jpg Views:	0 Size:	145.7 KB ID:	195005
                            Last edited by Bry5on; 12-05-2022, 10:58 AM.
                            ‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversion

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
                              It’s a good time to install a wideband O2 sensor instead of a bung or two! You’ll thank yourself later when you inevitably want a tune.
                              Grrrrr. This is exactly what I will need to do -- install a wideband sensor after headers were installed.
                              Hard to tell from the photo, but is there enough room to swap sensors without taking things apart?

                              Comment

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