Diff rebuild - available options

[Kcalhoun27]

All,

im at the point where my diff sounds like im dragging cans behind my car so its clearly time to refresh

I believe i have 3 options that are reasonable. With the criteria being:
properly working lsd unit that is quiet
new seals/bearings
not buying more than i will really use

so, the options are:
1. diffsonline - m-variable rebuild, nothing fancy. ~$2000 Shipped both ways
2. Racingdiffs parts, still m-variable ~ $800, $5-800 for shop to rebuild, im guessing
3. Wavetrac/Diffsonline seals/bearings - ~$3500 shipped both ways

i would say concern #1 is a properly working diff, that is quiet and i dont have to worry about it. Second is price, meaning that i can pay for any option listed, but dont want to pay more just to prove i can.

can anyone with experience please chime in? Ive read through every diff thread i can find, they are around 3 years old and things change. What was once good may not be any longer and id prefer to do this once and be done with it. Ive put 7k miles on my car the last 5 years so 80k should last my lifetime. If i go the parts route, i trust the shop doing the work, they build 1000hp drift cars for a living and diffs are oil changes for them. I called diffsonline today, and they said they do not sell m-variable parts specifically, so im guessing they save them for their in house rebuild offerings. I emailed racingdiffs and they linked me to their full rebuild kit. So those are the current options available as i see it

i dont track my car, i dont plan to. Its my fun driving car thats pretty to look at. I thought about gearing up a bit, but have decided against that as well, so its just a diff rebuild im looking for now.

thanks for any info

[sapote]

im at the point where my diff sounds like im dragging cans behind my car so its clearly time to refresh

V1 or V2? Always provide month/year build of the car in question.

Noisy all the time or only when turning?
If going to use RacingDiff, don't use the concave spring shim, but measure the clearance and use your own flat shims instead.

[Kcalhoun27]

Noisy when shifting and a bit when turning. Im also doing the wheel bearings because ill have the rear end torn apart, but from all the reading ive done, im confident the diff is the main culprit for the noise

its a 2003, with a Nov 2002 build date

As for the build, it will be done at a shop, so i will be trusting them to do the work correctly, to include using proper shim techniques. Id love to do the work and learn something but im not confident youtube is a good enough resource for this job

[sapote]

You have V1 Diff.
Sounds like the LSD clutch stack jerky slip and causes the M-clunk and noise during a turn, not bearings or ring/pinion issue.

[Kcalhoun27]

You have V1 Diff.
Sounds like the LSD clutch stack jerky slip and causes the M-clunk and noise during a turn, not bearings or ring/pinion issue.

Thats what i figured as well, but the noise is remeniscent of a failing wheel bearing and at 150k miles, its easy enough to do

that aside, is there any reason to choose one of the 3 listed options first? Other than price, i really dont have any recent reviews or info to base a decision off of, hence this thread. Ive read good and bad reviews of racingdiffs, majortiy good reviews of diffsonline, and a way too in depth description of why a wavetrac will show some wear after 300k miles, which im not sure is a worthwhile metric

[mrgizmo04]

V1 or V2? Always provide month/year build of the car in question.

You can't go by that if you are not the original owner of the car and don't know the history. Plenty of guys rip their diffs to crap early in the cars's life and replace entire diffs. Clutches start being noisy in less than 50k miles. Where they source them, who knows, junkyards, partouts, friends, Dan at diffsonline, etc. Then they strip the front bolt hole and get another diff.

While more likely that pre 2005 are v1, I wouldn't guarantee it without doing some more investigation, which halfshaft play, open rear cover, etc.

I have 4 diffs, most of them didn't meet the pre/post 2005 split expectation based on cars they came out of.

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[Kcalhoun27]

Pulled the diff and started disassembling in general, also to add some more context through photos. I do not know which version i have but hopefully this clears it up. The right side stub has a good bit of play in it, so i think i can safely say that its the root of the

[Norocehcap]

I have the m variable from diffsonline, I put it in last month and have done about 2k miles so far so good. The car is going to Limerock next weekend, if I have any problems I'll update here.

[mrgizmo04]

The right side stub has a good bit of play in it, so i think i can safely say that its the root of the

That is by design on v1 unit of how the lsd sits in the case, that the passenger side has shorter output shaft and has play, that is not the root of your can noises.

I have a few videos comparing and explaining v1 vs v2 diffs, could prove useful to watch.


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[Kcalhoun27]

That is by design on v1 unit of how the lsd sits in the case, that the passenger side has shorter output shaft and has play, that is not the root of your can noises.

I have a few videos comparing and explaining v1 vs v2 diffs, could prove useful to watch.


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I watched your video (about the lsd rebuild, i had not watched parts 1 and 2 until today. Explains not seeing the v1 vs v2 difference)yesterday, i guess i missed the part where it shook around in the housing. That definitely seemed like it was not good, even if by design, but i will take your word on it

in either case, its clearly leaking and im guessing based on the grime everywhere on the underside of the car, its coming from the side seals. Weird that it wasnt leaving spots on the garage floor, im guessing that it leaks when driving.

If it isnt clear by now, im still learning on this part. Ive pulled this car apart before but i never really dug into the diff, beyond changing the fluid. But i know i put 1.7 liters into it and didnt get that out when i drained it. And the diff has not be refreshed before so it needs to be done.

i actually decided to buy the racingdiffs parts based on your video and it seeming like its a DIY as long as i go slow. Worked for the vanos, should work here as well

[EthanolTurbo]

Another option you didn't list is a Drexler and having it built at a local diff shop.

[Kcalhoun27]

Another option you didn't list is a Drexler and having it built at a local diff shop.

From everything ive read about them, they are way above the use case for me. Also more expensive for no particular gain, as the stock diff is fine with me

[EthanolTurbo]

From everything ive read about them, they are way above the use case for me. Also more expensive for no particular gain, as the stock diff is fine with me

There are different models available. The most basic one starts at $1800ish. That + $900ish for labor, bearings, seals etc means your cost would be about $2700-2800. Not a bad price and it'll last way longer than the stock M variable that wears out quickly.

[Kcalhoun27]

There are different models available. The most basic one starts at $1800ish. That + $900ish for labor, bearings, seals etc means your cost would be about $2700-2800. Not a bad price and it'll last way longer than the stock M variable that wears out quickly.

Where are you seeing these units for that price? A quick google has €2300 and up, nothing near $1800. I suppose stricly speaking that is still the similar price point as the wavetrac, so i appreciate the suggestion.

[bigjae46]

I'd just do the Diffsonline M-variable. The highest chance of doing it right vs trusting a shop that may or may not know what they are doing.

$2k is pretty good. I charge locals $1200 P&L if they provide a core.