Can’t get correct camber after subframe reinforcement

[jpiazzam3]

I completed my cmp subframe reinforcement including solid cmp subframe bushing and their rcab. I took the car in for an alignment yesterday and the best they could do was -.6 on the left rear and -.5 on the right rear before the eccentric bolt started to push things in the wrong direction. Just wondering if there is anything I should try before I get aftermarket camber arms. Also any recommendations for camber arms would be appreciated

[George Hill]

Is the car lowered or stock height?

[jpiazzam3]

Is the car lowered or stock height?

It’s lowered with eibach and koni. Cmp states their lowering subframe bushings need at least .5” lowering for them to work properly

[Slideways]

It’s lowered with eibach and koni. Cmp states their lowering subframe bushings need at least .5” lowering for them to work properly

This setup requires camber arms as the rear is not low enough.

[jpiazzam3]

This setup requires camber arms as the rear is not low enough.

Thanks that’s what I needed to know. I thought I may have bent something when I had the rear end out

[sapote]

It’s lowered with eibach and koni. Cmp states their lowering subframe bushings need at least .5” lowering for them to work properly

Isn't "lowered car" should cause more negative camber instead of less? (lower when compared to the subframe.)

[Gt4]

Isn't "lowered car" should cause more negative camber instead of less? (lower when compared to the subframe.)

He has CMP aluminum raising subframe bushings so his car isn’t lowered enough to be in the OEM camber adjustment range.

[sapote]

He has CMP aluminum raising subframe bushings so his car isn’t lowered enough to be in the OEM camber adjustment range.

So with taller aluminum bushings which caused the subframe to be lowered relative to the floor? If it is, then the same shocks would make the wheels higher relative to the subframe then this is the same as saying the car is lowered, geometrically, right?

[Gt4]

So with taller aluminum bushings which caused the subframe to be lowered relative to the floor? If it is, then the same shocks would make the wheels higher relative to the subframe then this is the same as saying the car is lowered, geometrically, right?

Opposite. The bushings brings the subframe closer to the RACP so it bring back OEM geometry on lowered car. If car isn’t lowered enough, you need camber arms otherwise your camber ajustment range with the eccentric bolts will be somewhere between some positive camber and -0.5.

Raising subframe bushings on lowered cars keep upper and lower control arms with an angle otherwise on lowered cars they will be parallel to the ground.

[mrgizmo04]

When the bushings are pressed in, the part poking out of the top of subframe is shorter than stock, reducing space between subframe and racp, effectively "raising" the subframe. That results in less negative camber. So to get back to your original negative camber, you can lower the car further if you have adjustable perches, or get longer/adjustable lca.

The other downside of how these bushings shift everything is to now check front diff bolt torque, you need to remove s2 exhaust, undo the cross member, etc, since your socket/extension will no longer fit like they used to. That's because the bottom part of the bushings is a bit longer and the way the cups from the cross member bolt up, now blocks ingress to the front bolt hole. Fun.

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[JokerElite]

I have the same issue after using Turner's solid aluminum subframe bushings with stock suspension. The alignment shop could only get my rear camber to -0.9 L and -0.4 R.

According to their alignment report, rear camber should be -2.0 to -1.5. I see aftermarket adjustable camber arms advertise adjustability of -1.0 to +3.0. Isn't this still out of spec?

[Slideways]

I have the same issue after using Turner's solid aluminum subframe bushings with stock suspension. The alignment shop could only get my rear camber to -0.9 L and -0.4 R.

According to their alignment report, rear camber should be -2.0 to -1.5. I see aftermarket adjustable camber arms advertise adjustability of -1.0 to +3.0. Isn't this still out of spec?

They probably mean +1 to -3. Which camber arms are you looking at? Turner and Bimmerworld don't state the camber range probably because it is dependent on ride height. -2 should easily be achievable with these arms regardless of ride height.

[JokerElite]

They probably mean +1 to -3. Which camber arms are you looking at? Turner and Bimmerworld don't state the camber range probably because it is dependent on ride height. -2 should easily be achievable with these arms regardless of ride height.

SPC and Eibach. Also wondering if these are sufficient for street driving or do I need more expensive ones?

[Tbonem3]

SPC and Eibach. Also wondering if these are sufficient for street driving or do I need more expensive ones?

Ya that -1 to 4 is strange. I have the eibach arms made by spc and there's a ton of adjustment either direction so don't worry.

[Slideways]

SPC and Eibach. Also wondering if these are sufficient for street driving or do I need more expensive ones?

For street driving, camber arms with the rubber bushing, like stock, will be fine. But if you are spending around 400-500, which is apparently what the SPC and Eibach cost (made by the same manufacturer), you might want to look into the GC arms with sealed spherical ball joints. The GC arms use an OEM sealed ball joint similar to the CSL arms and are easily adjustable from the lower section of the arm.