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Can’t get correct camber after subframe reinforcement

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    Can’t get correct camber after subframe reinforcement

    I completed my cmp subframe reinforcement including solid cmp subframe bushing and their rcab. I took the car in for an alignment yesterday and the best they could do was -.6 on the left rear and -.5 on the right rear before the eccentric bolt started to push things in the wrong direction. Just wondering if there is anything I should try before I get aftermarket camber arms. Also any recommendations for camber arms would be appreciated
    Last edited by jpiazzam3; 05-05-2024, 06:12 AM.

    #2
    Is the car lowered or stock height?
    '00 R11S, '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Gray 332iT (SOLD), '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Japan Rot 325iT
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    Email to George@HillPerformance.com

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      #3
      Originally posted by George Hill View Post
      Is the car lowered or stock height?
      It’s lowered with eibach and koni. Cmp states their lowering subframe bushings need at least .5” lowering for them to work properly

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        #4
        Originally posted by jpiazzam3 View Post
        It’s lowered with eibach and koni. Cmp states their lowering subframe bushings need at least .5” lowering for them to work properly
        This setup requires camber arms as the rear is not low enough.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Slideways View Post

          This setup requires camber arms as the rear is not low enough.
          Thanks that’s what I needed to know. I thought I may have bent something when I had the rear end out

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            #6
            Originally posted by jpiazzam3 View Post
            It’s lowered with eibach and koni. Cmp states their lowering subframe bushings need at least .5” lowering for them to work properly
            Isn't "lowered car" should cause more negative camber instead of less? (lower when compared to the subframe.)

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              #7
              Originally posted by sapote View Post

              Isn't "lowered car" should cause more negative camber instead of less? (lower when compared to the subframe.)
              He has CMP aluminum raising subframe bushings so his car isn’t lowered enough to be in the OEM camber adjustment range.
              2002 BMW E46 M3 Titanium Silver/M-Texture 6mt
              2006 BMW E46 M3 Individual Estoril blue/Black 6mt
              2019 BMW X3 M40i Phytonic blue/Tartufo Individual

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                #8
                Originally posted by Gt4 View Post

                He has CMP aluminum raising subframe bushings so his car isn’t lowered enough to be in the OEM camber adjustment range.
                So with taller aluminum bushings which caused the subframe to be lowered relative to the floor? If it is, then the same shocks would make the wheels higher relative to the subframe then this is the same as saying the car is lowered, geometrically, right?

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by sapote View Post

                  So with taller aluminum bushings which caused the subframe to be lowered relative to the floor? If it is, then the same shocks would make the wheels higher relative to the subframe then this is the same as saying the car is lowered, geometrically, right?
                  Opposite. The bushings brings the subframe closer to the RACP so it bring back OEM geometry on lowered car. If car isn’t lowered enough, you need camber arms otherwise your camber ajustment range with the eccentric bolts will be somewhere between some positive camber and -0.5.

                  Raising subframe bushings on lowered cars keep upper and lower control arms with an angle otherwise on lowered cars they will be parallel to the ground.
                  2002 BMW E46 M3 Titanium Silver/M-Texture 6mt
                  2006 BMW E46 M3 Individual Estoril blue/Black 6mt
                  2019 BMW X3 M40i Phytonic blue/Tartufo Individual

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                    #10
                    When the bushings are pressed in, the part poking out of the top of subframe is shorter than stock, reducing space between subframe and racp, effectively "raising" the subframe. That results in less negative camber. So to get back to your original negative camber, you can lower the car further if you have adjustable perches, or get longer/adjustable lca.

                    The other downside of how these bushings shift everything is to now check front diff bolt torque, you need to remove s2 exhaust, undo the cross member, etc, since your socket/extension will no longer fit like they used to. That's because the bottom part of the bushings is a bit longer and the way the cups from the cross member bolt up, now blocks ingress to the front bolt hole. Fun.

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                    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

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