My long list of error codes: input appreciated

[///M3RIC]

Edit: Code update in post #5

In a recent post I alluded to bringing my M3 back to life that has sat neglected for years. I have a backlog of maintenance to take care of as well as some parts that I know need to be replaced. Before any of that, I thought a good place to start would be hooking up the battery for the first time in a few years and connecting to INPA.

For reference, the last time the car was running, it started idling very rough and died. After that it would crank, but no start. As I was attempting to figure it out the issue got worse, or this is just a separate issue, but the car will not crank. With that and various other small maintenance items piling up, the big three undone, and the fear of impending SMG failure, I put the car in storage.

When I hooked the car up yesterday, I verified it still will not crank and I pulled the following unsurprisingly long list of codes. I’ve also attached the INPA PDF reports.







Worth noting:

I pulled the engine error codes twice, once before attempting to crank and once after. The only code that increased in frequency was the 107 code which from what I've gathered has to do with the throttle position sensors.

The rough idle can probably be explained by the misfires in cylinder 5, I'm hoping that is just a failed coil.

The entire time I had the car I used the valet key, while it was out of commission I purchased and attempted to pair an actual key with fob. I was not successful and wonder if both keys are now unpaired. I think this is something I can check and correct with INPA.

The SMG light is on, but the pump was activating and priming. When I activated it through INPA the pressure was 80 bar and the pump switched off at 85 bar.



I'm not looking for an answer to a specific question, more so hoping for input from anyone who has a better understanding of these codes and the INPA logs.

[Slideways]

Clear the codes to see which ones come back and go from there. The no crank thing sounds like an EWS sync issue.

[///M3RIC]

Clear the codes to see which ones come back and go from there. The no crank thing sounds like an EWS sync issue.

This seems so obvious now. Will do.

[sapote]

"When I hooked the car up yesterday, I verified it still will not crank"

If it doesn't crank then EWS has problem. I would check the ews pin2 to make sure it has 12v when the key turned to START, and then if the key and ews are properly authenticated then pin1 has 12v which engages the starter (if the SMG has pressure and in neutral).

"The entire time I had the car I used the valet key, while it was out of commission I purchased and attempted to pair an actual key with fob. I was not successful and wonder if both keys are now unpaired. I think this is something I can check and correct with INPA."

The new key was cut and programmed by dealer? Pairing -- are you refering to pairing the fob remote control to the car GM5, or the ews?

[///M3RIC]

I cleared the codes and pulled them again in INPA. Most codes didn't return, but a few did:

107 - Controller self-test / Electric Throttle
This seems to be Throttle Position Sensor related although I have replaced both TPS on the engine.

59 - Clutch Control
This one is hardcoded and would not clear. Worn clutch, slave cylinder, gear position sensor, pump, etc. have all been mentioned as possible causes for this code. For some this one has caused a no crank / no start so maybe this is what is causing mine.

148 - CAN DME/DDE, engine torque not adjustable
This code was in the DSC section, but it might be related to the crankshaft position sensor?

61 - Central locking: Short circuit or open circuit in tailgate drive
Not sure, but I doubt this one is related to the no crank.

[///M3RIC]

"When I hooked the car up yesterday, I verified it still will not crank"

If it doesn't crank then EWS has problem. I would check the ews pin2 to make sure it has 12v when the key turned to START, and then if the key and ews are properly authenticated then pin1 has 12v which engages the starter (if the SMG has pressure and in neutral).

"The entire time I had the car I used the valet key, while it was out of commission I purchased and attempted to pair an actual key with fob. I was not successful and wonder if both keys are now unpaired. I think this is something I can check and correct with INPA."

The new key was cut and programmed by dealer? Pairing -- are you refering to pairing the fob remote control to the car GM5, or the ews?

What's odd is that after clearing the EWS codes, none of them returned.
The key was purchased online, I had to prove I was the owner. The key can't lock/unlock the car, I also wonder if it is not paired to the EWS, I did try both keys after clearing the codes, neither resulted in any EWS codes.

I'm starting to lean to the no crank being an SMG issue.

[Stilt]

What's odd is that after clearing the EWS codes, none of them returned.
The key was purchased online, I had to prove I was the owner. The key can't lock/unlock the car, I also wonder if it is not paired to the EWS, I did try both keys after clearing the codes, neither resulted in any EWS codes.

I'm starting to lean to the no crank being an SMG issue.

If it can't unlock or lock the car, it's worth it to do an ews delete, just to see if that's the issue, since that's a relatively change to make/ factor to eliminate.


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[///M3RIC]

If it can't unlock or lock the car, it's worth it to do an ews delete, just to see if that's the issue, since that's a relatively change to make/ factor to eliminate.


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Do you mean delete the EWS entirely or delete the key from the system and try re-adding it?

[sapote]

If it can't unlock or lock the car, it's worth it to do an ews delete, just to see if that's the issue, since that's a relatively change to make/ factor to eliminate.


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Doors lock/unlock issue has nothing to do with EWS.

[sapote]

What's odd is that after clearing the EWS codes, none of them returned.
The key was purchased online, I had to prove I was the owner. The key can't lock/unlock the car, I also wonder if it is not paired to the EWS, I did try both keys after clearing the codes, neither resulted in any EWS codes.

I'm starting to lean to the no crank being an SMG issue.

Code 59 (3B hex) is related with clutch or failure to shift gears.
Roll the car to make sure it’s in neutral, and with smg having higher than 45 bar pressure then EWS should enable starter to crank, unless:
a) clutch is unable to disengage
b) GPS reports it’s not neutral.

again, I would check voltage at pin2 of EWS when key turning to START

[///M3RIC]

Code 59 (3B hex) is related with clutch or failure to shift gears.
Roll the car to make sure it’s in neutral, and with smg having higher than 45 bar pressure then EWS should enable starter to crank, unless:
a) clutch is unable to disengage
b) GPS reports it’s not neutral.

again, I would check voltage at pin2 of EWS when key turning to START

I’ll give that a try. To clarify, I should unplug the EWS connection and use a multimeter on pin2 while turning the key to start. If there is voltage, check pin 1 to make sure power is being sent to starter? If both have power, that means EWS is not the issue?

Electrical DIY is definitely where I’m least experienced and comfortable, so I apologize if these questions are redundant.