Clutch goes pop on the track - need some help (SMG conversion by previous owner)

[Maxhouse97]

I was on the track this past weekend and lost my clutch (2004 M3, 140k miles, tracked last 4 years about two times a year), am now researching a clutch change. I’ve been reading this great thread ( What Else Should I Change When I do My Clutch? - NA M3 Forums ) and the FCP video, but have a couple of questions.

• My car was originally a SMG that was converted by the previous owner. I think it was a proper conversion (stock shifter, etc.). Is there anything you would advise me to watch out for, parts that are not compatible, etc.?
• I was thinking of staying stock all around for robustness and the fact that my car is 80/20 street/track.
• I plan on replacing the clutch and PP … how about the flywheel? How can I tell if it’s worn? I have read that they cannot be machined.
• Do you recommend changing the slave cylinder? If so, how about the fluid for the track, do I need something with higher temperature?
• I’ve read about the metal pivot pin, I think I will go in that direction.
• Special tools … seems like a need a couple. Rear main seal, flywheel lock, alignment dowel/tool,
• Do the new stock PPs that are self adjusting come with the mechanism reset or do you have to reset it?
• With the transmission out, should I replace all of the detent springs for the stick?

[Slideways]

I was on the track this past weekend and lost my clutch (2004 M3, 140k miles, tracked last 4 years about two times a year), am now researching a clutch change. I’ve been reading this great thread ( What Else Should I Change When I do My Clutch? - NA M3 Forums ) and the FCP video, but have a couple of questions.

• My car was originally a SMG that was converted by the previous owner. I think it was a proper conversion (stock shifter, etc.). Is there anything you would advise me to watch out for, parts that are not compatible, etc.?
• I was thinking of staying stock all around for robustness and the fact that my car is 80/20 street/track.
• I plan on replacing the clutch and PP … how about the flywheel? How can I tell if it’s worn? I have read that they cannot be machined.
• Do you recommend changing the slave cylinder? If so, how about the fluid for the track, do I need something with higher temperature?
• I’ve read about the metal pivot pin, I think I will go in that direction.
• Special tools … seems like a need a couple. Rear main seal, flywheel lock, alignment dowel/tool,
• Do the new stock PPs that are self adjusting come with the mechanism reset or do you have to reset it?
• With the transmission out, should I replace all of the detent springs for the stick?

Stay with stock parts - make sure pilot bearing is OE BMW as the one in the LuK kit is a loose fit
Typically, the flywheel is good for two clutches and it can be lightly sanded down to get a new mating surface
Stock slave is fine and it is easily accessible if/when it fails (not common)
Stock pivot pin will last 100k+ miles so no need to swap out for the older steel one. It sounds like a better idea than it is as it will add more wear to the clutch fork mating point - metal on metal
New pressure plate comes ready to install, no need to reset
You can inspect the detent springs or replace them as they are usually checked during SMG to manual swaps. SMG system tends to be harder on the springs for whatever reason

[sapote]

SMG system tends to be harder on the springs for whatever reason

Smg shifting too fast leading to high force on these parts?

Btw, smg has no detents in the bell housing for the shift gates.

[Maxhouse97]

Thanks for the replies. So since the SMG doesn’t have detent springs, they should be relatively new after the conversion. Other than that everything else should be the same between my car and a car that came with a manual from the factory it seems. Thanks again.

[sapote]

Thanks for the replies. So since the SMG doesn’t have detent springs, they should be relatively new after the conversion. Other than that everything else should be the same between my car and a car that came with a manual from the factory it seems. Thanks again.

Smg and manual both have these detent parts:
3 under the top right rear cover.
2 on the top left rear.

[George Hill]

The detent springs added during the conversion are #2 & 6

#17 is the same for both variants as is #15

#9 is specific to MT if the GPS is installed

I always replace all of the detents and parts in this diagram when converting a transmission but I don't think thats a common practice. #15 is a common failure on SMG cars, don't think I've seen it fail on a MT car though.

Either way though #15 & 9 are relatively cheap, #17 is the one thats going to hurt your feelings.

[Maxhouse97]

Is 17 hard to replace or expensive?

[Maxhouse97]

Does anyone have these tools that they would be willing to lend, I will pay for shipping.

Rear main seal, flywheel lock, alignment dowel/tool?

[sapote]

Does anyone have these tools that they would be willing to lend, I will pay for shipping.

Rear main seal, flywheel lock, alignment dowel/tool?

main seal: they do sell the whole plate with seal already installed.
FW lock: bolt a long strut bar to it and anchor on gnd.
what dowel to be installed?

[George Hill]

flywheel lock

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/330i/?year=2004&m=20&e=180&t=5&b=5&d=589&v=&keywords=%20BMW-83300493938

or

Put a bell housing bolt into the block and with a second person stab a pry bar into the ring gear teeth and brace against that bolt.

alignment dowel/tool?

This should come with your clutch kit.

main seal: they do sell the whole plate with seal already installed.

Unfortunately it is now NLA for S54s

[Mr.wReckless]

You won't need a flywheel lock. As mentioned fitting a bell housing bolt and holding against the starter ring gear teeth with a screwdriver or prybar is enough to torque the flywheel bolts to spec, alternatively a bolt on the flywheel too with steel wire from a bell housing bolt to assist you.

I think if you buy the whole rear main seal with the surrounding plate it'll come with a plastic cup to aide RMS install. I would advise against buying just the seal and get the whole seal + plate as I personally had a bad experience with doing just the seal and had to do it again with a new seal + plate.

Regards

[PetrolM3]

As far as the flywheel goes, I'd check the play/slack (dual mass) and not just the surface. It's possible there's enough play to justify replacement but that depends on how the car was driven - could be perfectly fine or not. I can't remember off top of my head what's considered acceptable but you should be able to find that info easily..

If you decide to replace, I'd go with Luk rather than BMW - they are the same thing yet price difference is significant.

[PetrolM3]

Found the dual mass flywheel play test in another thread on the forum - see post #4: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...el-replacement

Easy way to tell weather flywheel needs replacing or not is by amount of movement between the 2 masses. You can do that by counting the teeth on the first mass while rotating second mass per LUk product catalogue max allowable range is 4 theeth or 13 degrees ( each tooth equals 3.25 Degree) of movement anything over flywheel needs replacing. Brand NEW OE LUK flywheel has 2 tooth movement.

[sapote]

Put a bell housing bolt into the block and with a second person stab a pry bar into the ring gear teeth and brace against that bolt.

This does have a risk of crack/breaking the cast iron block threaded hole.

Bolt it to a long Strut bar is safe, using two of the PP threaded holes on the FW.

[George Hill]

This does have a risk of crack/breaking the cast iron block threaded hole.

Bolt it to a long Strut bar is safe, using two of the PP threaded holes on the FW.

If the bolt is screwed all the way in and the flywheel bolt is torqued with a torque wrench no way, the person holding the bar is gonna slip before the block breaks.