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    #16
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    To remove and reinstall the alternator, you have to slightly retract the threaded sleeve where the long lower bolt is installed; otherwise, it will be a struggle during uninstall and install.
    Any tips on that? When I replaced my alternator, I just fought it with the help of a pry bar. Once out, I messed around to try and figure out how to push the captive nut on the "back" side of the alternator out, using bolts, hammers--but it wouldn't budge. I'd love some insight on how to drift that captive nut out during removal.

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      #17
      Originally posted by PSUEng View Post

      Any tips on that?
      IIRC, you loosen the bottom bolt a few turns (do not remove it yet), then use a mallet and tap it in.
      By doing so, the bolt will push that threaded sleeve in. Once it's been pushed back enough, at that time you completely remove the lower bolt.

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        #18
        When I did the alternator a few weeks ago, to remove, I partially slid the bolt to loosen and then gradually as it came out and then just acted in reverse when putting it in. Although, I've done my alternator 3 times in the past year so I must just be getting the hang of it or something.

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          #19
          Originally posted by simon_c View Post

          This would've been very helpful for me when I did this. I wanted to shoot myself. Good info for those in the future!
          Been there before. You really hate yourself when you realize how easy the job could have been. Then you find someone going through the same pain and you laugh.

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            #20
            Originally posted by PSUEng View Post

            Any tips on that? When I replaced my alternator, I just fought it with the help of a pry bar. Once out, I messed around to try and figure out how to push the captive nut on the "back" side of the alternator out, using bolts, hammers--but it wouldn't budge. I'd love some insight on how to drift that captive nut out during removal.
            Thread the lower bolt in a few turns and hit with a mallet. Doesn’t take a lot.

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              #21
              Rock Auto also has them for a little cheaper than FCP. And ideally you won’t need to replace it again anytime soon.
              http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
              '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
              '01 M3, Imola/black

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                #22
                I went with the X5 / Z3 alternator, higher output at 140A and direct fit once you swap over the bracket which takes all of 5 minutes.

                P/N 12317551253, $233 for a new Valeo from eEuroparts and you can find a coupon to slap on it. A good amount cheaper than the original P/N for our cars.
                '04 LSB Coupe 6MT
                All my money goes towards maintenance.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by dukeofchen View Post
                  I went with the X5 / Z3 alternator, higher output at 140A and direct fit once you swap over the bracket which takes all of 5 minutes.

                  P/N 12317551253, $233 for a new Valeo from eEuroparts and you can find a coupon to slap on it. A good amount cheaper than the original P/N for our cars.
                  Purchased my new OE 120A Valeo from Bimmersdotcom for $225 to my front door. It was shipped quickly and fit was perfect! Two year Valeo warranty included...though, not expecting to ever need it. When I removed the original, it had a label with BMW and Valeo on it.
                  /// 2005 Silbergrau M3 · Coupe · 6spd · ZPP · Eibach Pro Street S Coilovers · Sportline CS16 CSL Replica Wheels · PS4S 245/275

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                    #24
                    car has Bosch alternator from PO...he just replaced it before my purchase...but based off people's experience on here, I may go ahead and replace with BMW reman.

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                    /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

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