Well, I did and didn't dodge a bullet

[George Hill]

Appreciate the insights!

It was when mostly stationary.

There is no way the driveshaft can cause a noise when the car is stationary, you have a second issue causing this.


SGF Guibo with the BMW pn# ground off in a Febi box.

[fattycharged]

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[CybrSlydr]

Hard to believe it's already been 13 years. How many miles does the m have now? Good to hear the car is treating you well man. I purchased it from a guy on the old m3forum in Texas. I wonder if he's on here too.

I recently purchased another 05 m3 with almost identical options as yours. Looking forward to enjoying this car!


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It has 163,300 now. I think I got it from you with 78k, so I've definitely run it around over the years as a DD. It's been with me since I bought it from you when I was recovering in Texas and had it shipped to Ohio, drove it back from Ohio to Louisiana, from Louisiana back to Ohio, and now from Ohio to Wyoming.

Still has the same clutch from when I bought it from you. lol Though I think it's getting close to needing replacing.

[CybrSlydr]

There is no way the driveshaft can cause a noise when the car is stationary, you have a second issue causing this.


SGF Guibo with the BMW pn# ground off in a Febi box.

I understand your skepticism, but the driveshaft is in the back of the car currently (ran into some funding issues that weren't anticipated... will be a bit before I can get the driveshaft replaced) with the heat shield. The flex disc is definitely cracked (saw with my own eyes) and the u-joint is seized (saw with my own eyes and tried to flex it myself). We looked at the exhaust as that's what I thought it was, but there aren't any holes (though a less than impressive weld job was done on it, but functional).

The odd thing is that the noise went away when they replaced the fuel pump. I've not heard it since, which is... odd. The sound really sounded like it was coming from the exhaust. It honestly sounds a lot like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZ_LufeU58Q

[CybrSlydr]

Yeah, it sounds almost exactly like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23SQ4oGtHfw

[bigjae46]

I have an account with a national rebuilder, Powertrain Industries. I’ve curated (haha) about 30 driveshaft rebuilds. Haven’t heard of an issue with one yet.

With that said, the company split up or something. One part of that bigger company did a carbon shaft conversion which hasn’t gone so well.

IIRC, pricing was about $550 + $150 core plus you’d have to ship your core back. Not sure what it is now.

They replace the bushing, u-joint, CSB, and CV and then dynamically balance it on some proprietary balancer. My only complaint is they use aftermarket parts. Most important is they replace the u-joint and balance the shaft.

Drivetrain vibrations should be addressed immediately. All those vibrations in the driveshaft go right to the output shaft bearing in your tranny and all of the other bearings on that shaft. All of the radial bearings will wear much faster. That is why you should never use a solid or poly guibo.

[CybrSlydr]

Ended up getting the eBay used driveshaft with CSB and had it shipped to the indy. Got the car back today. Driveshaft was $300, total bill from the shop was $1416.29.

1x 252.42 for the drive shaft flex joint
1x 114.55 for the fuel filler door lock actuator (had him do that too, though the magnet is still busted)
4x 153.00 labor to remove and install drive shaft
1x 153.00 labor to remove and replace the filler door actuator
1x 150.00 misc parts

$765.00 labor, $516.97 parts plus taxes

Their rate for imports is $153/hr,

Found the invoice from the fuel pump install, so I figured I'd run that one here since you all said $1200 was too much.

$1300.85 for fuel pump and relay
3x 153.00 labor for remove/replace fuel pump
1x 693.68 for fuel pump part
1x 23.48 for the fuel pump relay
1x 0.10 remove/replace relay

$459.10 labor, $693.68 parts plus tax.

Also took it to a tire shop to get the TPMS sensors fixed as it's always telling me I have a flat, that was $230 for 4 new sensors and reprogram of the system or whatever.

Have an appointment on Friday to get the brakes looked at and then an appointment at 1pm to have a body shop look at some cosmetic stuff I'd like to get fixed and see how much that's going to hurt.

[old///MFanatic]

Also took it to a tire shop to get the TPMS sensors fixed as it's always telling me I have a flat, that was $230 for 4 new sensors and reprogram of the system or whatever.
.

What year is your M3? You actually have sensors in the wheels??

[CybrSlydr]

What year is your M3? You actually have sensors in the wheels??

It's a 2005. It seemed to have fixed the problem.

There weren't any sensors in any of the wheels they said (which I understand they're supposed to be wheel speed sensors in the hubs, right?). Their system allowed them to program the new ones (33MHz I think they said) Put 4 in. Said to drive it at highway speeds for 10-15 miles should allow the sensors to calibrate and the light would go off on it's own. I did so and the light didn't go out on it's own, so I hit my turn-around point and held the TPMS button on the dash until the red TPMS light went out. It didn't come back on the rest of the trip back. Usually it'd come back after a minute or two.

[Mike RT4]

The E46 M3 does not have any TPMS, it just uses the wheelspeed sensors. If you read your manual, you can actually see for yourself how to calibrate these so the light doesn't keep coming on. But if you haven't got a manual, see here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zh8o1axQ_U

[CybrSlydr]

The E46 M3 does not have any TPMS, it just uses the wheelspeed sensors. If you read your manual, you can actually see for yourself how to calibrate these so the light doesn't keep coming on. But if you haven't got a manual, see here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zh8o1axQ_U

I understand that. But what they did fixed my issue. Drove 100mi today and the light didn't come on.

I can't explain it.

[Slideways]

My guess is they replaced all four wheel speed sensors and they or OP might be referring to them as being TPMS sensors. IIRC, a bad wheel speed sensor can cause the TPMS light issue.

[CybrSlydr]

My guess is they replaced all four wheel speed sensors and they or OP might be referring to them as being TPMS sensors. IIRC, a bad wheel speed sensor can cause the TPMS light issue.

Here's the invoice. They showed the sensors to me, they were attached to the valvestems.

https://www.tpms.com/Schrader-EZ-Sensor-33560-p/33560.htm

[Mike RT4]

So where on your car is the tyre pressure displayed?

[CybrSlydr]

So where on your car is the tyre pressure displayed?

It's the yellow/red icon on the right side of the dashboard. It was solid red before they did this. As I said, I'd hold the tire pressure button on the dash and the red tire light would go out, but 30 sec or so later, the dash would BEEP and the red tire light would come back on.

Now, I held the button and cleared the red tire light after driving down the interstate and getting off and coming back and the light went off but hasn't come back on.

I don't know what black magic fuckery is going on that whatever they did fixed it, but I don't have a red tire light on my dash anymore.