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PLEASE HELP! Suspected Bricked DME MSS54

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    PLEASE HELP! Suspected Bricked DME MSS54

    Hey guys, I recently bought an abandoned E46 M3 SMG that was converted to manual by the previous owner that didn't come with it's original key and EWS module. (SMG computer was also removed but I think this was done during the conversion before the car was abandoned.)

    I then got a manual key made (no EWS chip) to unlock and crank the car.

    I've been trying to get it to start over the past couple of days and have tried everything, nothing seems to be working. Thus, my suspicion of a failed DME.

    Let's go over the steps taken in sequence:

    1. Car cranks over by jumping the EWS socket pins 1 and 2 with a 30A fuse (EWS module not present). No spark and no fuel.

    1. I noticed that the coolant temp goes to red immediately after turning on the key. So I got out my MSSFlasher and did a scan on the DME, noticed that the DME was stuck in "Tune Flashing Mode", INPA shows that someone has updated the DME to 7837907 about 18 months ago (latest firmware for EU 6MT). I'm not sure how long this car has been abandoned for as it bounced from workshop to workshop before ending up in my hands. I believe the flash was done in an attempt to fix the car.

    2. I then used WinKFP in comfort mode to do a ZUSB update, flashing it to another copy of 7837907. Flash was successful and MSSFlasher shows that the DME is now in "Normal operation mode".

    3. Using BMWflash and TunerPro, I did a EWS delete on the DME, even removed the EWS DTC. Car still only cranks with no spark and no fuel. I also checked the coolant needle before doing this to double confirm I didn't mess up the partial tune.

    4. Using INPA and my Launch OBD scanner, I'm able to scan and read the DME. Some of the notable faults are coolant temperature sensor and IKE no communication with DME.

    5. I've checked the 3 DME fuses in the glovebox and all the fuses in the DME box, all seems fine. There was a bent pin on the DME which I straightened but doesn't seem to make a difference.

    6. Unlike every other bricked DME online, my speedometer still shows my CEL and EML lights, ASC and brake lights are yellow, coolant goes to red and battery and oil pressure light doesn't come on. Running a IKE test via INPA shows that everything works.

    Here's a bit more info on my DME:
    Software number: 7837908
    Authority number: 7831825
    Assembly number: 7837907
    BMW part number: 7837941

    It is also worth noting that my alarm system has been beeping this whole time and my passenger door has been deadlocked and doesn't open as my current key doesn't have central locking, thus I removed the fuse for the alarm system. (I don't think this makes a difference to starting the car.)

    PLEAEEEASE HELP!! I'm really at lost and have no idea what else I can do.​

    #2
    Your DME isn’t bricked.

    People are confused about “EWS delete”, it you do that to your DME, it will be able to work in any car in pair with any EWS module, but it does NOT allow you to delete the EWS system entirely.

    You still need a functioning EWS module and key pair, as in the keys transponder must belong to the EWS module or be programmed into it.

    After you add an EWS module back into the mix, also verify the clutch switch lockout is wired and works.
    E46 ///M3 • 12/2002 • phönix-gelb • 6MT
    E39 ///M5 • 12/1998 • avus-blau • 6MT
    E60 ///M5 • 11/2006 • saphir-schwarz • 6MT

    Comment


      #3
      I'll try to source another EWS and key pair, but does the missing EWS module cause my temperature to go red hot when ignition is turned on?

      I seem to be having the exact same issue with this person in this thread, even down to the identical fault codes.

      Hi guys, bought a e46 m3 smg that doesn’t start. I am planning to manual swap it but another issue popped up. When I bought, it doesn’t crank at all and the coolant temperature gauge is max red when in ignition. I was able to get it to crank by coding out the clutch safety. I tried testing but no spark or fuel, since temp gauge


      ​​

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Lucassss View Post
        1. I also checked the coolant needle before doing this to double confirm I didn't mess up the partial tune.
        2.
        There was a bent pin on the DME which I straightened but doesn't seem to make a difference.

        ​.​
        1. so what's the result -- temp needle still moves to the red zone?
        2. What is the pin number and connector?

        Temp needle moves to red on cold engine means the dash CANbus failed to connect to DME. Use inpa to verify if it can read other Canbus modules such as Steering angle sensor, DSC

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Lucassss View Post
          I'll try to source another EWS and key pair, but does the missing EWS module cause my temperature to go red hot when ignition is turned on?

          I seem to be having the exact same issue with this person in this thread, even down to the identical fault codes.

          Hi guys, bought a e46 m3 smg that doesn’t start. I am planning to manual swap it but another issue popped up. When I bought, it doesn’t crank at all and the coolant temperature gauge is max red when in ignition. I was able to get it to crank by coding out the clutch safety. I tried testing but no spark or fuel, since temp gauge


          ​​
          The coolant temp sensor under the intake manifold sends temp data to the gauge in the cluster. You could replace that sensor if you think it is faulty.

          Or if you know someone with spare DME, you can try that to rule out the DME.
          Last edited by Slideways; 07-22-2024, 02:49 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by sapote View Post
            1. so what's the result -- temp needle still moves to the red zone?
            2. What is the pin number and connector?

            Temp needle moves to red on cold engine means the dash CANbus failed to connect to DME. Use inpa to verify if it can read other Canbus modules such as Steering angle sensor, DSC
            1. Yes, temp needle is still in the red, CEL and EML turns on.
            2. I can't really remember but I believe it was X6003, pin 15.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Slideways View Post

              The coolant temp sensor under the intake manifold sends temp data to the gauge in the cluster. You could replace that sensor if you think it is faulty.

              Or if you know someone with spare DME, you can try that to rule out the DME.
              I believe the coolant temp sensor isn't faulty. I initially unplugged it to see if it'll still cause the temp to go red, no change.
              I'm able to use my Launch OBD reader to read live data. Coolant temps are at ambient temperature.

              I don't know anyone with a spare DME that I can try but there's a wrecker that is willing to sell me a complete DME, EWS, key and ZKE set. However it isn't refundable if it doesn't solve my problem so I'd very much like to identify the issue before biting the bullet and buying the set.

              Comment


                #8
                [SOLVED]

                Saw in another thread that someone mentioned to double check the DME connectors as the SMG module and DME uses the same kind of connects, albeit different colours.

                Noticed that the X60003 connector connected to the DME was grey! Swapped in the black one and the car fired right up!

                EWS delete on DME, EWS module removed with 30A pin in pins 1 and 2, blank key without transponder.

                I'm still unable to unlock my passenger door and get my alarm to stop flashing but that's a problem for another day!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Lucassss View Post
                  [SOLVED]

                  Saw in another thread that someone mentioned to double check the DME connectors as the SMG module and DME uses the same kind of connects, albeit different colours.

                  Noticed that the X60003 connector connected to the DME was grey! Swapped in the black one and the car fired right up!

                  EWS delete on DME, EWS module removed with 30A pin in pins 1 and 2, blank key without transponder.

                  I'm still unable to unlock my passenger door and get my alarm to stop flashing but that's a problem for another day!
                  Nice work!

                  Both the door locks and alarm are controlled by the GM5. You can scan the GM5 for codes to diagnose.

                  Does your car have the full alarm system or is it just coded to flash the lights as if the alarm is present?

                  Comment

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