Reasonable price for rod bearings

[George Hill]

I just ran a quick mental quote and its probably around $5500-6k.

The vanos job is 100% overlap in labor as a HG, so take that add more labor, more parts ($$$) and machine work.

[EthanolTurbo]

They better be doing a head gasket for 5.5k lol

A reman BMW short block is around 14k

Edit: 5.5k might only cover labor depending on time, rate, location

My friend charged me $1500 to do my head gasket. 😎

[t44tq]

I had rod bearings done, including all gaskets, parts, hardware and oil needed for the job, plus engine mounts for $1600 including labor. The numbers mentioned here sound nuts to me.

[EthanolTurbo]

I had rod bearings done, including all gaskets, parts, hardware and oil needed for the job, plus engine mounts for $1600 including labor. The numbers mentioned here sound nuts to me.

That's because they're absolutely insane quotes so the shop owner can go on a nice vacation at OP's expense.

[bigjae46]

I had rod bearings done, including all gaskets, parts, hardware and oil needed for the job, plus engine mounts for $1600 including labor. The numbers mentioned here sound nuts to me.

They are quoting book labor which is 16 hours or something. Realistically should take a shop no longer than 6-8 hours. If you're lighting fast, 2-3 hours.

[BL92]

Australia prices for comparison


Price is in $ AUD

[mr pete]

Any recommendations for shops in the Phoenix AZ area?

[bimmerfan08]

Not sure rod bearing are where I'd begin my journey of working on cars.

I wrote up my DIY with the intention of a novice-level DIYer being able to complete the job.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLmaagppKMehpCgdw32cjcaZ0iCMuZDo/view

[bavarian3]

I wrote up my DIY with the intention of a novice-level DIYer being able to complete the job.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLm...Z0iCMuZDo/view

Can have all the DIY's ya want I personally wouldn't recommend it. It's an easy job if you know what you're doing and have the right tools.

Main issue I see is risk of scratching the crank, or botching something around the oil pump or pickup tubes reinstallations. Also the torque sequence is very difficult on your back.

[Will]

Can have all the DIY's ya want I personally wouldn't recommend it. It's an easy job if you know what you're doing and have the right tools.

Main issue I see is risk of scratching the crank, or botching something around the oil pump or pickup tubes reinstallations. Also the torque sequence is very difficult on your back.

I did this job using the member created DIYs from the old m3forums (Bimmerfan08 and SYT_Shadow) and things went smoothly - my engine hasn't blown up, yet (knock on wood). I was working in a garage with jack stands and basic hand tools (listed in Bimmerfan08's DIY). The only tool I bought was the 3/8" digital torque-angle from Snap-on, which isn't mandatory, but does make the tightening sequence easier.

Prior to this job, my experience working on cars included the basics: maintenance items such as valve adjustment, fluid changes, cooling system refresh, with changing the vanos or clutch as the largest job. All of the jobs were done guided by the detailed DIYs created by forum members. The vanos, rod bearings, and clutch were the biggest and most daunting jobs, but I think the anticipatory anxiety was worse than the job itself.

It definitely sucked to be working on jack stands, but hey that's what I have at the moment. Just be extra careful to ensure the car is stable on the stands, I also keep an old wheel (wider the better) or two underneath to give myself a better chance of survival in case the car falls.

Of course there are risks to working on your own cars, but be diligent, organized, and don't be in a rush. Take frequent breaks. Hydrate. And cool off if it's hot where you are.

I wouldn't recommend doing the job with a hard deadline (like you need the car in the morning to go to work).

It helps to read through the instructions a few times prior to starting and in between steps. It also helps to have your parts and tools laid out adjacent to your car like a surgeon would have for an operation. Having a sharpie to mark a bolt was helpful as a visual check as well, take the guessing game out of it ("did I tighten that bolt yet?").

As for tightening sequence, I recommend a few mock runs (wrench not actually on each bolt) to ensure you'll have sufficient clearance for the wrench and your arms to do one clean sweep. It also lets you know if you're body is in good position to achieve desired torque / angle.

I DIY'd because I didn't have the budget to pay a shop. Also, there's no guarantee a shop will be diligent to not scratch the crank or forget to tightening properly. I'd trust people like George Hill, Kaiv, both on this forum, as well as reputable shops with experience (EAS in Anaheim, CA, for an example in socal).

End of the day, each has to do what they're comfortable with. For $3,800 as OP was quoted, it might be motivation to DIY.

[Slideways]

I did this job using the member created DIYs from the old m3forums (Bimmerfan08 and SYT_Shadow) and things went smoothly - my engine hasn't blown up, yet (knock on wood). I was working in a garage with jack stands and basic hand tools (listed in Bimmerfan08's DIY). The only tool I bought was the 3/8" digital torque-angle from Snap-on, which isn't mandatory, but does make the tightening sequence easier.

Prior to this job, my experience working on cars included the basics: maintenance items such as valve adjustment, fluid changes, cooling system refresh, with changing the vanos or clutch as the largest job. All of the jobs were done guided by the detailed DIYs created by forum members. The vanos, rod bearings, and clutch were the biggest and most daunting jobs, but I think the anticipatory anxiety was worse than the job itself.

It definitely sucked to be working on jack stands, but hey that's what I have at the moment. Just be extra careful to ensure the car is stable on the stands, I also keep an old wheel (wider the better) or two underneath to give myself a better chance of survival in case the car falls.

Of course there are risks to working on your own cars, but be diligent, organized, and don't be in a rush. Take frequent breaks. Hydrate. And cool off if it's hot where you are.

I wouldn't recommend doing the job with a hard deadline (like you need the car in the morning to go to work).

It helps to read through the instructions a few times prior to starting and in between steps. It also helps to have your parts and tools laid out adjacent to your car like a surgeon would have for an operation. Having a sharpie to mark a bolt was helpful as a visual check as well, take the guessing game out of it ("did I tighten that bolt yet?").

As for tightening sequence, I recommend a few mock runs (wrench not actually on each bolt) to ensure you'll have sufficient clearance for the wrench and your arms to do one clean sweep. It also lets you know if you're body is in good position to achieve desired torque / angle.

I DIY'd because I didn't have the budget to pay a shop. Also, there's no guarantee a shop will be diligent to not scratch the crank or forget to tightening properly. I'd trust people like George Hill, Kaiv, both on this forum, as well as reputable shops with experience (EAS in Anaheim, CA, for an example in socal).

End of the day, each has to do what they're comfortable with. For $3,800 as OP was quoted, it might be motivation to DIY.

Would definitely work up to this DIY as you did. A successful valve adjustment would be a minimum IMO before considering something like rod bearings. Even better, a full VANOS service. At least with those two, you can usually go back and try again. Rod bearings, not so much.

[bavarian3]

I did this job using the member created DIYs from the old m3forums (Bimmerfan08 and SYT_Shadow) and things went smoothly - my engine hasn't blown up, yet (knock on wood). I was working in a garage with jack stands and basic hand tools (listed in Bimmerfan08's DIY). The only tool I bought was the 3/8" digital torque-angle from Snap-on, which isn't mandatory, but does make the tightening sequence easier.

Prior to this job, my experience working on cars included the basics: maintenance items such as valve adjustment, fluid changes, cooling system refresh, with changing the vanos or clutch as the largest job. All of the jobs were done guided by the detailed DIYs created by forum members. The vanos, rod bearings, and clutch were the biggest and most daunting jobs, but I think the anticipatory anxiety was worse than the job itself.

It definitely sucked to be working on jack stands, but hey that's what I have at the moment. Just be extra careful to ensure the car is stable on the stands, I also keep an old wheel (wider the better) or two underneath to give myself a better chance of survival in case the car falls.

Of course there are risks to working on your own cars, but be diligent, organized, and don't be in a rush. Take frequent breaks. Hydrate. And cool off if it's hot where you are.

I wouldn't recommend doing the job with a hard deadline (like you need the car in the morning to go to work).

It helps to read through the instructions a few times prior to starting and in between steps. It also helps to have your parts and tools laid out adjacent to your car like a surgeon would have for an operation. Having a sharpie to mark a bolt was helpful as a visual check as well, take the guessing game out of it ("did I tighten that bolt yet?").

As for tightening sequence, I recommend a few mock runs (wrench not actually on each bolt) to ensure you'll have sufficient clearance for the wrench and your arms to do one clean sweep. It also lets you know if you're body is in good position to achieve desired torque / angle.

I DIY'd because I didn't have the budget to pay a shop. Also, there's no guarantee a shop will be diligent to not scratch the crank or forget to tightening properly. I'd trust people like George Hill, Kaiv, both on this forum, as well as reputable shops with experience (EAS in Anaheim, CA, for an example in socal).

End of the day, each has to do what they're comfortable with. For $3,800 as OP was quoted, it might be motivation to DIY.

Yep for someone with average experience I think it's fine, but I think it's often undersold on how easy it can be to mess up also.

In the case of a screwup, the difference between paying some and DIY'ing is responsibility. Sometimes it's worth having someone else be liable and warranty their work.

[bigjae46]

Can have all the DIY's ya want I personally wouldn't recommend it. It's an easy job if you know what you're doing and have the right tools.

Main issue I see is risk of scratching the crank, or botching something around the oil pump or pickup tubes reinstallations. Also the torque sequence is very difficult on your back.

The torque sequence isn't that bad. If all else fails, just throw your purse at it...hahahaha

Seriously, a 1/2" digital torque wrench with an angle setting makes it much easier. You want 1/2 drive because it will have a longer handle for more leverage. With that, you'll need a 1/2 to 3/8" adaptor, not a big deal.

I would also not recommend doing this if you're not sure what you're doing. There were techs at the dealership I worked at that I would never let them do bearings on my customers cars. They had no understanding about bearings, clearances and torque. They just followed work instructions. I had to school some of their dumbasses what torque is and why fasteners are torqued.

[bavarian3]

The torque sequence isn't that bad. If all else fails, just throw your purse at it...hahahaha

Seriously, a 1/2" digital torque wrench with an angle setting makes it much easier. You want 1/2 drive because it will have a longer handle for more leverage. With that, you'll need a 1/2 to 3/8" adaptor, not a big deal.

I would also not recommend doing this if you're not sure what you're doing. There were techs at the dealership I worked at that I would never let them do bearings on my customers cars. They had no understanding about bearings, clearances and torque. They just followed work instructions. I had to school some of their dumbasses what torque is and why fasteners are torqued.

Maybe you all are in strong man competitions or M11 are worse but I wasn't consistently able to do 70° with a 1/2" Icon without a helper to hold down the socket so I can two hand the bar. If I could stand on my feet I could do it no problem I'm sure.

That's also terrifying to hear about the "techs". lol.

[EthanolTurbo]

Any recommendations for shops in the Phoenix AZ area?

Kaiv in San Diego is the closest one I'd recommend.