GC Street camber plates Help: how to adjust after install?

[BigRussia]

Apologies for what may be a stupid question post, but I'm trying to adjust my front drivers camber plate and need help. I have GC Street front camber plates, they dont have the separate adjustable bolts to loosen to move around like on the race and other high end plates.

So I raised up my front drivers wheel, and loosened the 3 strut tower nuts... and I cant get the damn plate to budge at all! Im even using a long screwdriver as leverage in the slots and nothing moves not even a mm. But the plate had moved to the 0 setting on its own as I loosened the strut nuts. What is the technique for adjusting these while they're on the car?? I cant find anything online specific to this, and I know my alignment guy doesn't take apart the entire thing to adjust, he doesnt even raise the car up, so what am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance

[elbert]

Did you take off the wheel? Fighting against its weight can make adjustments difficult.

Your photo doesn't show the front strut bar, but disconnect that too if it's still attached. Make sure you disconnect and reattach that bar only with the wheels on the ground. Otherwise you might break the mounting point.

[Anders93]

When I adjust mine, I put a deep socket with a 6 or 9 inch extension on the big strut nut to manipulate the strut. Pulling up on the wheel to relieve the friction also helps.

[BigRussia]

Did you take off the wheel? Fighting against its weight can make adjustments difficult.

Your photo doesn't show the front strut bar, but disconnect that too if it's still attached. Make sure you disconnect and reattach that bar only with the wheels on the ground. Otherwise you might break the mounting point.

Nope, wheel is still on in the air. Yup disconnected the middle of the strut tower bar. Figured the weight of the wheel would actually help loosed the tension of the plate?

When I adjust mine, I put a deep socket with a 6 or 9 inch extension on the big strut nut to manipulate the strut. Pulling up on the wheel to relieve the friction also helps.

Thought about that too but was worried about damaging the strut nut, ill give that a try as well.

EDIT just tried to put a 21mm socket, it doesnt fit onto the nut cause its too close to the tower opening lip...

Just tried pushing in the wheel with all my leg strength still hasnt moved even a mm, how is this possible? These plates aren't old or rusted, I put a new girdle on them not even 6 months ago!

I have the OEM bmw reinforcement plates if that makes a difference. Should I completely remove the 3 strut tower nuts?

[Tbonem3]

Strut bar has nowt to do with things; distance between strut towers is pretty fixed. Just need to loosen 3 nuts. Wheels off. A medium sized flathead screwdriver can be used to leverage the plate in and out to adjust camber.

Mind, adjusting for more neg camber will cause toe out (in front).

[BigRussia]

Strut bar has nowt to do with things; distance between strut towers is pretty fixed. Just need to loosen 3 nuts. Wheels off. A medium sized flathead screwdriver can be used to leverage the plate in and out to adjust camber.

Mind, adjusting for more neg camber will cause toe out (in front).

Yeah I have the 3 nuts completely loose, any more and theyre completely off and I'm afraid the stud girdle will drop down. Wheel is now off, and I pushed the shock and spring coilover assembly with all my strength and again hasn't moved at all from the position in the picture. I dont understand how this is even possible, I'm pushing so hard the car is rocking on the jack stands... this is so frustrating, every little thing on this car turns into a damn mission lol.

EDIT: Got it!! So turns out some upward tension is indeed needed, (just like you do removing the rear shock bolts). I put a jack under the arm and pushed up a bit, then was able to use my leg to push the coilover inward. Man it was tough but it finally moved.

What a workout and more what an embarrassing post! Sorry to take up everyone's time and energy with this, I really try not to clutter the new forum with useless posts. I greatly appreciate all the help and tips guys, hopefully this helps out someone else in the future a la the old M3F used to help me with its wealth of older posts! 😅

[elbert]

Strut bar has nowt to do with things; distance between strut towers is pretty fixed.

Hmm, my shock towers are slotted, so I thought it would make a difference. (Having said that I leave mine at -3 all the time so I'm probably not the one to ask)

[timmo]

Might be a dumb question but how is caster adjusted? Camber is clearly adjusted by loosening the 3 nuts and sliding the strut in/out, but these plates were marketed to have caster adjustment as well, but I don't see a fore/aft adjuster.

[Tbonem3]

The castor may need to be adjusted before install as you may not be able to access all the bolts once the plate is installed due to the limited size of the strut tower "window". There are 3 studs around the perimeter of the plate that go through our shock tower, but the bolts I'm referring to are usually in the middle of the plate, going down into the plate, often allen key heads, usually 4 of them.

Not all plates have castor adjustment; I don't believe the GC street versions in the OP here do. My TMS street plates do, however. Here's a pic of GC hybrids - you see the 4 little allen head bolts int he middle?

[timmo]

The castor may need to be adjusted before install as you may not be able to access all the bolts once the plate is installed due to the limited size of the strut tower "window". There are 3 studs around the perimeter of the plate that go through our shock tower, but the bolts I'm referring to are usually in the middle of the plate, going down into the plate, often allen key heads, usually 4 of them.

Not all plates have castor adjustment; I don't believe the GC street versions in the OP here do. My TMS street plates do, however. Here's a pic of GC hybrids - you see the 4 little allen head bolts int he middle?

Yeah, the ones you have pictured make sense. But looking at the GC street plates they are marketed to allow for 0.75 degree caster adjustment, which baffles me because the only fasteners are the 3 studs to the strut tower

[0-60motorsports]

Yeah, the ones you have pictured make sense. But looking at the GC street plates they are marketed to allow for 0.75 degree caster adjustment, which baffles me because the only fasteners are the 3 studs to the strut tower

Yeah I have the GC street plates too and will have a deeper look when I go for alignment soon to see if any caster adjustment is possible.

[r4dr]

FWIW in the future, I’ve called GC on the phone with stupid questions, mid install with the car in the air, and they’ve always been helpful. Another option for you if it’s during their business hours.

[timmo]

Yeah I have the GC street plates too and will have a deeper look when I go for alignment soon to see if any caster adjustment is possible.

How much mileage do you have on your set? There are surprisingly not too many reviews I can find on the street plates - I guess that could be a good thing, since I haven't heard of any bearing failures or complaints about NVH. I found a good deal on a set of used ones online and want to pick those up.

FWIW in the future, I’ve called GC on the phone with stupid questions, mid install with the car in the air, and they’ve always been helpful. Another option for you if it’s during their business hours.

That's good to know! Will keep that in mind when/if I install mine.

[Obioban]

I have a used set of Ground Control Street plates for sale, if you’re in the market.

[Onefastsicilian]

I have a used set of Ground Control Street plates for sale, if you’re in the market.

What did you switch too for your Ohlins?