Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

SMG Temp Sensor

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    SMG Temp Sensor

    Hello Friends - getting the dreaded x38 code for my smg on hot days in SoCal

    Is it possible to replace the smg temp sensor with just removing the intake or do I need to remove the whole manifold? Ty in advanced

    #2
    you probably need to remove the whole smg pump for the temp sensor replacement (if it's the sensor which screwed into the pump on the rear end of the pump you are talking about)

    Comment


      #3
      Yes, manifold needs to come out. It would also be a good time to replace the pump motor as the codes are related.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by JokerElite View Post
        Yes, manifold needs to come out. It would also be a good time to replace the pump motor as the codes are related.

        https://burkhart-engineering.com/smg-wiki/
        Thank you.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Sylverlee View Post
          Hello Friends - getting the dreaded x38 code for my smg on hot days in SoCal

          Is it possible to replace the smg temp sensor with just removing the intake or do I need to remove the whole manifold? Ty in advanced
          Is it Hex 38 or decimal? 0x38 is hex, not x38

          Even it's 0x38, how do you know it is the temp or the pump internal leaking? Use inpa to read the smg temp to confirm before diving in.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by sapote View Post

            Is it Hex 38 or decimal? 0x38 is hex, not x38

            Even it's 0x38, how do you know it is the temp or the pump internal leaking? Use inpa to read the smg temp to confirm before diving in.
            Its 000038 "Symptom Glue/Hydrualic Pressure/Duty Hydraulic Unit. I'm not sure if it's temp or the pump internal leaking. Just replacing the convenient stuff first. I changed the SMG fluid out with a turkey blaster a few times, changed out the SMG relay. The error code/CEL disappear once the car cools down.

            What should the SMG temp be? I can monitor it with my iCarsoft as I drive.

            Comment


              #7
              Try switching to burkhart fluid

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jayjaya29 View Post
                Try switching to burkhart fluid
                Was thinking of doing that.. but I read you can’t mix it with the Pentosin. So will need to do a full flush. Can’t do the turkey blaster method. My shop charges $500 to swap fluid

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Sylverlee View Post

                  Was thinking of doing that.. but I read you can’t mix it with the Pentosin. So will need to do a full flush. Can’t do the turkey blaster method. My shop charges $500 to swap fluid

                  Not sure how you came to the conclusion that they cannot be mixed. They are mixable fluids (assuming you are talking about CHF11S and the Burkhart fluid) - Its extremely easy to change the fluid, just use your turkey blaster method up top, under the car crack open the slave cylinder line and let the fluid come out - Burkhart has video/section that discuss how to get the most of the CHF11S out.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Irhase46m3 View Post


                    Not sure how you came to the conclusion that they cannot be mixed. They are mixable fluids (assuming you are talking about CHF11S and the Burkhart fluid) - Its extremely easy to change the fluid, just use your turkey blaster method up top, under the car crack open the slave cylinder line and let the fluid come out - Burkhart has video/section that discuss how to get the most of the CHF11S out.
                    Got it directly from their website.

                    “The new oil is not mixable with the Pentosin. When changing oil there should remain max. 5% of residual oil. Proper bleeding of hyraulic system is necessary.”

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Sylverlee View Post

                      Got it directly from their website.

                      “The new oil is not mixable with the Pentosin. When changing oil there should remain max. 5% of residual oil. Proper bleeding of hyraulic system is necessary.”
                      Yup, when I used BE's repair kit I drained most if not all of the CHF and refilled with their fluid. This was the recommendation for quite some time.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Sylverlee View Post

                        Got it directly from their website.

                        “The new oil is not mixable with the Pentosin. When changing oil there should remain max. 5% of residual oil. Proper bleeding of hyraulic system is necessary.”
                        I think the idea is to get as much CHF11s out as possible for the new fluid to work better, it does not damage anything or prevent the system from operating. See below:

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	CaptureBE.png
Views:	47
Size:	126.3 KB
ID:	277843

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Irhase46m3 View Post

                          I think the idea is to get as much CHF11s out as possible for the new fluid to work better, it does not damage anything or prevent the system from operating. See below:

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	CaptureBE.png
Views:	47
Size:	126.3 KB
ID:	277843
                          Thank you! That’s helpful. I actually emailed them this morning with the same question… was doubtful I would get a reply. So appreciate that.

                          I don’t have the software to bleed it, so turkey blaster it is.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X