SMG to 6MT Conversion

[sapote]

Anybody have the McMaster Carr part numbers for the modified bell housing parts: large coil spring, small ball bearing which connected to the shifter arm?

I found the info:
McMaster-Carr: Bearing - 5972K91 Torsion spring - 9271K125

[sapote]

I'm about to order the parts for converting a spare SMG to manual. Have a few questions for those who had done this.
1. Is it necessary to install the gear recognition sensor? Is it only needed for display the gears and cruise control functions? Why the SMG system doesn't need this sensor?
2. "Once the threads are cut as deep as they will go (the tap will stop when the end contacts the pressed bushing inside), clean out any excess grease and install your new shift detent, spring guide pin, and compression spring. Yes, these parts are different between the SMG and manual cars- do not try to reuse those from the SMG. Finally, screw in your new gear recognition sensor."
OP described the process but he didn't say to remove the original pressed busing before installing the new parts. Since the SMG used the spring and this pressed bushing, the word pressed makes me think this pushing is an interference fit then why it has the compressed spring on its? What is the function of the original spring/bushing on the SMG box?

Edited: I think I know its function: to have detent on the odd and even gears, i.e, 1,3,5,R vs 2,4,6. I will not use the gear position sensor and leave the stock SMG detent parts alone.

[ejendow]

I just bought one from eEuroparts. Had to call to make sure, but it got the 61319122700 part. Sales guy had to look it up to make sure it was what was on the shelf.

Anyone need a 35426876898 clutch switch? Make you a hell of a deal!

good to know, I'll order it through them

[Zack]

Where does the connector for the new gear position switch come from? It’s not the connector for the reverse switch correct?

I can't remember exactly but I know that the connector was already under there, one of em was the reverse and only one other fit the GPS i just don't remember which one it was

[wsybert]

Has anyone had any luck purchasing the 61319122700 clutch switch recently? It seems like I can't find it anywhere and everyone just wants to send me the 35426876898 switch.

I just bought one from eEuroparts. Had to call to make sure, but it got the 61319122700 part. Sales guy had to look it up to make sure it was what was on the shelf.

Anyone need a 35426876898 clutch switch? Make you a hell of a deal!

[ejendow]

Has anyone had any luck purchasing the 61319122700 clutch switch recently? It seems like I can't find it anywhere and everyone just wants to send me the 35426876898 switch.

[Mspir3d]

Where does the connector for the new gear position switch come from? It’s not the connector for the reverse switch correct?

[ejendow]

I do not think that is your issue.

You may be right. I took out the SMG ECU (I hadn't taken it out yet) and now the problem has not returned.

[George Hill]

After reading more of this post carefully, I believe the problem might actually be the clutch switch. I accidentally purchased the #35426876898 switch instead of the #61319122700. Do you think this might be the issue? It's just weird to me that the 354 switch works "most" of the time haha.

I do not think that is your issue.

[Mspir3d]

Is anyone aware of the difference between the clutch switch part numbers 61319122700 and 61319122701? There isn’t much to go on from realoem and the shop performing the swap is going with the PN ending in 701.

61319122701 is the euro switch and does not have the clutch interlock circuit on it. It will work if you code it out which is relatively simple.

Seems silly but I noticed the gear position sensor harness is different than the smg one. Does the end need to be cut off and a new one soldered on to plug it in?

[m3nt0s]

Is anyone aware of the difference between the clutch switch part numbers 61319122700 and 61319122701? There isn’t much to go on from realoem and the shop performing the swap is going with the PN ending in 701.

[DiegoD]

Hello guys! I’ve done the swap and the programming thanks to ECUWorks software and a tutorial on how to use NCS Expert I found on YouTube. The thing is, that when I fully push the clutch pedal my electrical system gets fishy... the blinkers won’t turn on, my steering controls won’t work, the headlights won’t start... but once I depress the pedal they all turn on. What could this be? I did recode the car to see if everything was OK and I get the same issue.

other thing is that the SMG rev light I coded with ECUWorks won’t work. Has anybody had this issue other issue after the swap?

By the way, I have the instructions to code everything I downloaded a few years back from the old forum. Let me know how to upload them because I have no idea lol.

[heinzboehmer]

After reading more of this post carefully, I believe the problem might actually be the clutch switch. I accidentally purchased the #35426876898 switch instead of the #61319122700. Do you think this might be the issue? It's just weird to me that the 354 switch works "most" of the time haha.

I'm not entirely sure. I've seen some threads where people run into stalling issues with the incorrect part (35426876898). But I haven't had to deal with this myself, so not sure if it would also affect starting. Maybe someone else can chime in on that.

I would switch to the correct part (61319122700) regardless.

[ejendow]

Well your clutch switch is fine then. I would double check all your wiring to make sure everything is correct, including the wires going to the starter and in the positive post in the engine bay (make sure all nuts are snug, connections are clean, etc.).

Could also be that your starter is going and it just happened to start failing right after the swap.

After reading more of this post carefully, I believe the problem might actually be the clutch switch. I accidentally purchased the #35426876898 switch instead of the #61319122700. Do you think this might be the issue? It's just weird to me that the 354 switch works "most" of the time haha.

[heinzboehmer]

happened again today and when it did I heard the click

Well your clutch switch is fine then. I would double check all your wiring to make sure everything is correct, including the wires going to the starter and in the positive post in the engine bay (make sure all nuts are snug, connections are clean, etc.).

Could also be that your starter is going and it just happened to start failing right after the swap.