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SMG to 6MT Conversion

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  • ejendow
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    Potentially. Next time it happens listen for the relay click. If it's not clicking then something's wrong with the clutch switch (or related wiring). If it is, then something is wrong elsewhere.
    happened again today and when it did I heard the click

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by ejendow View Post

    I haven't tried to hear a click when this issue is occurring but I feel that the wiring is done correctly, although its weird that this occurs on/off. This problem also leads me to believe its wiring related as well. Would it be the wiring thats connected to the EWS?
    Potentially. Next time it happens listen for the relay click. If it's not clicking then something's wrong with the clutch switch (or related wiring). If it is, then something is wrong elsewhere.

    Leave a comment:


  • ejendow
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    When the issue comes up, can you still hear the relay click when you push in the clutch? If not then that would point at a wiring issue or potentially a faulty switch.
    I haven't tried to hear a click when this issue is occurring but I feel that the wiring is done correctly, although its weird that this occurs on/off. This problem also leads me to believe its wiring related as well. Would it be the wiring thats connected to the EWS?

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by ejendow View Post

    yeah I’m unsure. It's just weird that unplugging/replugging the clutch switch fixes the problem.
    When the issue comes up, can you still hear the relay click when you push in the clutch? If not then that would point at a wiring issue or potentially a faulty switch.

    Leave a comment:


  • George Hill
    replied
    Originally posted by ejendow View Post

    yeah I’m unsure. It's just weird that unplugging/replugging the clutch switch fixes the problem.
    Probably coincidence or there is an issue in your wiring and unplugging it wiggles the wiring back to a working order.

    Leave a comment:


  • ejendow
    replied
    Originally posted by George Hill View Post

    The first thought that came to mind is you had an adjustable stop or it wasn't installed correctly and was keeping you from fully actuating the switch, but that doesn't seem to be the case then.
    yeah I’m unsure. It's just weird that unplugging/replugging the clutch switch fixes the problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • George Hill
    replied
    Originally posted by ejendow View Post

    stock clutch stop
    The first thought that came to mind is you had an adjustable stop or it wasn't installed correctly and was keeping you from fully actuating the switch, but that doesn't seem to be the case then.

    Leave a comment:


  • ejendow
    replied
    Originally posted by George Hill View Post

    What are you using for a clutch pedal stop?
    stock clutch stop

    Leave a comment:


  • George Hill
    replied
    Originally posted by ejendow View Post
    I recently did the swap and since then I've had a no crank no start issue twice. Both times what allowed the car to start is unplugging the clutch switch and plugging it back in. Does anyone have any idea as to why this is happening? In between both cases, the car would start just fine. It is to note that I haven't removed the SMG ECU.
    What are you using for a clutch pedal stop?

    Leave a comment:


  • ejendow
    replied
    I recently did the swap and since then I've had a no crank no start issue twice. Both times what allowed the car to start is unplugging the clutch switch and plugging it back in. Does anyone have any idea as to why this is happening? In between both cases, the car would start just fine. It is to note that I haven't removed the SMG ECU.

    Leave a comment:


  • ejendow
    replied
    Originally posted by S3diment View Post
    Found a place that has a relatively low labor charge. For those that have done the swap recently, how much did parts cost you (not including the bellhousing)?
    ~$1500 but it should be a little cheaper than that since I used an RTD shifter with a DSSR.

    Leave a comment:


  • S3diment
    replied
    Found a place that has a relatively low labor charge. For those that have done the swap recently, how much did parts cost you (not including the bellhousing)?

    Leave a comment:


  • George Hill
    replied
    Originally posted by terra View Post

    M is brown, non-M is black
    And along these lines, whenever you order the M3, just tell who ever you are ordering from that you want the 700, otherwise when the number gets typed into BMWs system it automatically supersedes to the 898 which is incorrect. They won't have a problem ordering this, just requires a couple extra steps from the parts guy.

    Leave a comment:


  • terra
    replied
    Originally posted by mikeetastic View Post

    is there a difference in look for m or non m? Ill order this soon but i heard people get the non m version?
    M is brown, non-M is black

    Leave a comment:


  • mikeetastic
    replied
    Originally posted by terra View Post
    Yes it needs to be 61319122700. BMW erroneously superseded it in the ETK to the non-M part. I hear if you can convince the parts guy to actually place the order for the old part number it will go through. 61319122701 (Euro M3/M5 switch) would work too, though it's unclear what's different about that one (I think it may not support the clutch interlock).
    is there a difference in look for m or non m? Ill order this soon but i heard people get the non m version?

    Leave a comment:

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