I guess chance I damaged something when installing all of this though I dont see any immediate issues
I think this is the issue as i had the hose clamps in worse spots and the car really got upset and killed the power - i moved them all to 12 oclock position and now its internment issue with similar error codes
Is there a way to use inpa to actuate throttle positions?
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Hose clamp hitting throttle
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Corrected after bmwfnatic supplied the correct one a few posts down:
I will say when one my throttle actuators was hitting my clamp the car simply went into limp mode and wouldn't let me come out of second gear even when manual shifting my SMG. Been years, don't remember the exact dme error.
You can google "bmw hose clamp tool" for cheaper versions.Last edited by oceansize; 01-09-2025, 11:23 AM.
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Going to just order the oem ones - Looking at it - its just the ones on the throttle body side that could interfere right? Those are 63mm ones? I will keep the worm ones on the intake side
Bonus question - in my searches on this topic someone posted an Amazon link to the tool that tightens these style clamps and I cant find that post again - someone have that handy?
I THINK its this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
Last edited by audipwr1; 01-08-2025, 03:44 AM.
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07129952125 - 59 - 66mm
07129952127 - 65 - 72mm
The OE throttle body side clamp is 63mm, and the plenum side is 71mm, so the ones above are closest to the original ones.
You can also use NORMA 50-70, but I find those kind of large for the throttle body side. the one time I used these, before knowing the above PN, I cut a bit of the worm end. The benefit of the OE clamps is that the screw head is smaller so they are more package friendly.
Although I bought the worm clamps, I ended up going back to the original ones accepting the plenum side are a one time use, and use the recommended tool above for the throttle bodies side ones.
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I have used OE worm clamps, I found two part numbers that fit very neatly with no excess clamp material after tightening down.
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View PostI'm one of "those" people who use worm clamps. I know I risk banishment for admitting that here. lol
But I always face the drive screw away from the throttle rod. Never had an issue.
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Originally posted by Avedis View PostIf you are using generic style worm clamps that require a tool to incrementally tighten them down, they need to be oriented in a very specific orientation to avoid this exact issue.
The orientation can be found in many DIY's but its captured decently in this video at ~8:40 (LINK)
The second (and better option in my opinion) is to use the factory clamps which have no "head". They can be found here (LINK)
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View PostI'm one of "those" people who use worm clamps. I know I risk banishment for admitting that here. lol
But I always face the drive screw away from the throttle rod. Never had an issue.
To OP: just have someone else actuate the throttle while you look to see which one is hitting.Last edited by bmwfnatic; 01-06-2025, 10:17 AM.
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I'm one of "those" people who use worm clamps. I know I risk banishment for admitting that here. lol
But I always face the drive screw away from the throttle rod. Never had an issue.
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I would use the factory clamps, can be re-used on T.B side, looks a lot better, more even clamping force, no interference with T.B.
The tool to install can generally be found locally as well. Same goes for airbox side clamps save being able to reuse them.
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If you are using generic style worm clamps that require a tool to incrementally tighten them down, they need to be oriented in a very specific orientation to avoid this exact issue.
The orientation can be found in many DIY's but its captured decently in this video at ~8:40 (LINK)
The second (and better option in my opinion) is to use the factory clamps which have no "head". They can be found here (LINK)
Last edited by Avedis; 01-06-2025, 10:49 AM.
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