Hose clamp hitting throttle

[bmwfnatic]

I guess chance I damaged something when installing all of this though I dont see any immediate issues

I think this is the issue as i had the hose clamps in worse spots and the car really got upset and killed the power - i moved them all to 12 oclock position and now its internment issue with similar error codes

Is there a way to use inpa to actuate throttle positions?

Unfortunately not, DIS and presumably ISTA can do it, and if you are a bit tech savvy you can probably figure it out in Tool32 without installing any of the aforementioned.

But how about a brick on the throttle pedal?

[audipwr1]

I guess chance I damaged something when installing all of this though I dont see any immediate issues

I think this is the issue as i had the hose clamps in worse spots and the car really got upset and killed the power - i moved them all to 12 oclock position and now its internment issue with similar error codes

Is there a way to use inpa to actuate throttle positions?

[oceansize]

Corrected after bmwfnatic supplied the correct one a few posts down:


I will say when one my throttle actuators was hitting my clamp the car simply went into limp mode and wouldn't let me come out of second gear even when manual shifting my SMG. Been years, don't remember the exact dme error.

You can google "bmw hose clamp tool" for cheaper versions.

[audipwr1]

Going to just order the oem ones - Looking at it - its just the ones on the throttle body side that could interfere right? Those are 63mm ones? I will keep the worm ones on the intake side


Bonus question - in my searches on this topic someone posted an Amazon link to the tool that tightens these style clamps and I cant find that post again - someone have that handy?

I THINK its this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

[oceansize]

I use the Normas or Wurth Zebras. Works

[maupineda]

07129952125 - 59 - 66mm
07129952127 - 65 - 72mm

The OE throttle body side clamp is 63mm, and the plenum side is 71mm, so the ones above are closest to the original ones.

You can also use NORMA 50-70, but I find those kind of large for the throttle body side. the one time I used these, before knowing the above PN, I cut a bit of the worm end. The benefit of the OE clamps is that the screw head is smaller so they are more package friendly.

Although I bought the worm clamps, I ended up going back to the original ones accepting the plenum side are a one time use, and use the recommended tool above for the throttle bodies side ones.

[maupineda]

What are the part numbers?

Going through my FCPEuro orders… will post them shortly.

[jayjaya29]

I have used OE worm clamps, I found two part numbers that fit very neatly with no excess clamp material after tightening down.

What are the part numbers?

[maupineda]

I have used OE worm clamps, I found two part numbers that fit very neatly with no excess clamp material after tightening down.

[LSBNick]

I'm one of "those" people who use worm clamps. I know I risk banishment for admitting that here. lol

But I always face the drive screw away from the throttle rod. Never had an issue.

Same. Nearly 3 years with zero issues. Just take the time to orient them, and test the throttle to ensure clearance. If I can do it, then anyone can lol

[beyondm3]

If you are using generic style worm clamps that require a tool to incrementally tighten them down, they need to be oriented in a very specific orientation to avoid this exact issue.

The orientation can be found in many DIY's but its captured decently in this video at ~8:40 (LINK)

The second (and better option in my opinion) is to use the factory clamps which have no "head". They can be found here (LINK)

I should have held out for matte.... 🤤

[bmwfnatic]

I'm one of "those" people who use worm clamps. I know I risk banishment for admitting that here. lol

But I always face the drive screw away from the throttle rod. Never had an issue.

It’s fine from a technical standpoint if you make sure to orient them to not interfere with the throttle, but I also see the screw part really bite into the rubber and ruin it, but that might be down to user error / over tightening, who knows.

To OP: just have someone else actuate the throttle while you look to see which one is hitting.

[bigjae46]

I'm one of "those" people who use worm clamps. I know I risk banishment for admitting that here. lol

But I always face the drive screw away from the throttle rod. Never had an issue.

[Cubieman]

I would use the factory clamps, can be re-used on T.B side, looks a lot better, more even clamping force, no interference with T.B.
The tool to install can generally be found locally as well. Same goes for airbox side clamps save being able to reuse them.

[Avedis]

If you are using generic style worm clamps that require a tool to incrementally tighten them down, they need to be oriented in a very specific orientation to avoid this exact issue.

The orientation can be found in many DIY's but its captured decently in this video at ~8:40 (LINK)

The second (and better option in my opinion) is to use the factory clamps which have no "head". They can be found here (LINK)