Rear spring platform height adjustment

[bigjae46]

It's only to get the rear ride height correct. The bonus is you don't have to keep taking the tear suspension apart while you are getting it set to the correct height. Everything stays in place.

Once it's set all good.

To raise or lower the ride height, you put a ratchet on the bolt head from underneath.

I like the reinforcement plate but the weight jacking seems like a bit much. Removing the rear spring to make an adjustment, especially with a coilover, isn't that difficult.

I have the TC Kline beehive spring which is supposed to prevent coil bind like this articulating perch. How many people have ran into coil bind issues with a straight spring?

[elbert]

I have had both the GC and Rogue. My observations/recollections:

Although they are the same functionally, they are not identical.
- I think the bottom plate on the Rogue is aluminum, while the GC is (IIRC) steel.
- The thread pitch of the adjuster on the GC is finer than the Rogue. Neither is better, just different.

As for Kaiv's video
- It's hard to tell what he is referring to as being hard to turn. If he's referring to the adjuster, that's not important as you'll be using a ratchet to make adjustments. If it's the bearing, now that might be a problem, but if the bearing turns smoothly, it's probably OK. To me, it looked like he was referring to the adjuster.
- Having that upper portion come off is not a big deal. When it is loaded with the car's weight, it won't come off. I suppose somehow it could come off if it got stuck onto the spring when lifting the car, but it was never an issue for me.

I would run whichever one is available. Both do the job. Make sure you use the locating cones on the upper end of the spring.

Two reasons to have these:
- IMO the articulation helps compensate the difference in the arcing motion of the arm versus the linear motion of the spring
- Corner balancing is super easy with these perches.

[elbert]

I like the reinforcement plate but the weight jacking seems like a bit much. Removing the rear spring to make an adjustment, especially with a coilover, isn't that difficult.

I have the TC Kline beehive spring which is supposed to prevent coil bind like this articulating perch. How many people have ran into coil bind issues with a straight spring?

I found it a lot easier. I probably suck at corner balancing, but not having to take off the wheel each time to make a 1/4 turn adjustment saves a ton of time. Makes adjusting the fronts a PITA in comparison.

One downside of the TCK springs is they go up to only 700#. I've had some coilbind at more extreme compression levels. Granted I was running softer springs at the time, but kept using these perches, so who knows, maybe it's my imagination.

[Ramps]

Thanks. They appear to be bare metal looking at the pictures on the RE website.

How are they doing with corrosion?

Mine are still minty fresh but I don’t drive the car in the winter so it doesn’t see salt.

In this photo you can see the one when they were 10 years old and I was doing my rear end refresh. I have no complaints with them.

https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10164902196260576&set=a.10150172790050576&type=3

[fattycharged]

Here's my issue with a brand new set…the spherical used is at best an F3, as in if you breathe on it it's moving…


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[D-O]

I have had the Rogues in the car for a few years. So far no issues and ride height adjustments are super easy.

[ac427]

Here's my issue with a brand new set…the spherical used is at best an F3, as in if you breathe on it it's moving…


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Is F3 a particular type or grade of bearing?

[fattycharged]

https://www.fkrodends.com/tech/torque-specs__trashed/

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[enjoy_m3]

I have a set of GC that were lightly used and the bearing froze just like Kaiv's video. Super disappointed. Bought used RE ones, older version and haven't had an issue since.

[bigjae46]

Here's my issue with a brand new set…the spherical used is at best an F3, as in if you breathe on it it's moving…


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Shouldn't the bearing move freely? Or am I misunderstanding?

[prostcfc]

I have the Rogue ones. Nice product, but doesn't seem like I can raise them while on the ground with my super stiff Hyperco springs; otherwise adjustment is nice and easy.

Question - is the thread pitch on these 2.5mm? Trying to get a good approximation for ride height adjustment versus putting my finger in the wind.

[Tbonem3]

What's the thread dia? Most are 1.5 but coarse at 2.5 starts with M18. Otherwise, 1.75 or 2.0 for m14 & m16.

Big Jae, re how they work, I envisage a big ball bearing, but I've never seen one disassembled. Clever product. I always seem to use 2.5" & 65mm rear springs so never considered them.

[Cubieman]

The RE's won't work with my TCK rear beehive style springs, I would have to run the mounts so low that the threaded rod touches the axle.
I have the "newer" RE's with a 14mm adjuster.

The TCK springs I have are more or less 6&1/2" tall, what are people using using the RE perches running? A 5.5" spring would be ideal from what I can tell but that's not a very common size.

[prostcfc]

The TCK springs I have are more or less 6&1/2" tall, what are people using using the RE perches running? A 5.5" spring would be ideal from what I can tell but that's not a very common size.

I bought a MCS 1WNR kit from Bimmerworld and they sold me the RE perches and 5" springs. They work.

[prostcfc]

What's the thread dia? Most are 1.5 but coarse at 2.5 starts with M18. Otherwise, 1.75 or 2.0 for m14 & m16.

I had this all written on a piece of paper that I can't find, but I came to the conclusion they were 2.5 pitch. Pretty sure I even took out calipers to see. I reached out to RE a couple times over email but didn't get a response.

Anyway, I adjusted today, and assuming a .63 motion ration in the rear, it's about 4 mm per turn, which correlates to roughly a 2.5 pitch. Good enough for me to get a swag. I know these are supposed to be used for corner balancing, but this at least gets me in the ride height ballpark in advance of doing that (I don't have scales).