Rear spring platform height adjustment

[bigjae46]

It's only to get the rear ride height correct. The bonus is you don't have to keep taking the tear suspension apart while you are getting it set to the correct height. Everything stays in place.

Once it's set all good.

To raise or lower the ride height, you put a ratchet on the bolt head from underneath.

I like the reinforcement plate but the weight jacking seems like a bit much. Removing the rear spring to make an adjustment, especially with a coilover, isn't that difficult.

I have the TC Kline beehive spring which is supposed to prevent coil bind like this articulating perch. How many people have ran into coil bind issues with a straight spring?

[elbert]

I have had both the GC and Rogue. My observations/recollections:

Although they are the same functionally, they are not identical.
- I think the bottom plate on the Rogue is aluminum, while the GC is (IIRC) steel.
- The thread pitch of the adjuster on the GC is finer than the Rogue. Neither is better, just different.

As for Kaiv's video
- It's hard to tell what he is referring to as being hard to turn. If he's referring to the adjuster, that's not important as you'll be using a ratchet to make adjustments. If it's the bearing, now that might be a problem, but if the bearing turns smoothly, it's probably OK. To me, it looked like he was referring to the adjuster.
- Having that upper portion come off is not a big deal. When it is loaded with the car's weight, it won't come off. I suppose somehow it could come off if it got stuck onto the spring when lifting the car, but it was never an issue for me.

I would run whichever one is available. Both do the job. Make sure you use the locating cones on the upper end of the spring.

Two reasons to have these:
- IMO the articulation helps compensate the difference in the arcing motion of the arm versus the linear motion of the spring
- Corner balancing is super easy with these perches.

[elbert]

I like the reinforcement plate but the weight jacking seems like a bit much. Removing the rear spring to make an adjustment, especially with a coilover, isn't that difficult.

I have the TC Kline beehive spring which is supposed to prevent coil bind like this articulating perch. How many people have ran into coil bind issues with a straight spring?

I found it a lot easier. I probably suck at corner balancing, but not having to take off the wheel each time to make a 1/4 turn adjustment saves a ton of time. Makes adjusting the fronts a PITA in comparison.

One downside of the TCK springs is they go up to only 700#. I've had some coilbind at more extreme compression levels. Granted I was running softer springs at the time, but kept using these perches, so who knows, maybe it's my imagination.

[Ramps]

Thanks. They appear to be bare metal looking at the pictures on the RE website.

How are they doing with corrosion?

Mine are still minty fresh but I don’t drive the car in the winter so it doesn’t see salt.

In this photo you can see the one when they were 10 years old and I was doing my rear end refresh. I have no complaints with them.

https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10164902196260576&set=a.10150172790050576&type=3

[fattycharged]

Here's my issue with a brand new set…the spherical used is at best an F3, as in if you breathe on it it's moving…


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[D-O]

I have had the Rogues in the car for a few years. So far no issues and ride height adjustments are super easy.

[ac427]

Here's my issue with a brand new set…the spherical used is at best an F3, as in if you breathe on it it's moving…


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Is F3 a particular type or grade of bearing?

[fattycharged]

https://www.fkrodends.com/tech/torque-specs__trashed/

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[enjoy_m3]

I have a set of GC that were lightly used and the bearing froze just like Kaiv's video. Super disappointed. Bought used RE ones, older version and haven't had an issue since.

[bigjae46]

Here's my issue with a brand new set…the spherical used is at best an F3, as in if you breathe on it it's moving…


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Shouldn't the bearing move freely? Or am I misunderstanding?