ABS Module rebuild - recommendations?

[ChapterM3]

Hey guys - urgently looking for an ABS module rebuild place, and have tried the following but it's left me seeking more options before waiting a month to get it done. Module and pump are already out of the car. We pulled them thinking that we could get it to Module Master but with this new info of their tech being out, I'm looking for other options. Worst case the car is down for a month but I'd love to avoid that if possible.

Module Master, Idaho - the most recommended place I've heard, but their tech is out until the 24th
Module Repair Pro, Van Nuys (CA) - Do not do the e46 M3 module unfortunately
G7 Computers, NYC - can do it, but they have crazy terrible reviews online and it spooked me not to go with them

I'm in Los Angeles so anything more west coast focused would be cool, but happy to send to the east coast if you can personally say you've dealt with a place that you like and is reputable!

Thank you in advance!

Jonathan

[heinzboehmer]

Don't have any recommendations for places, but these "rebuilds" usually just involve opening the module up and reflowing some solder joints that have cracked over the years. Recently fixed a Z3 ABS module that was throwing ~all the codes by reflowing the two (obviously broken) solder joints for the pump power connector.

Definitely a very DIYable thing to do. Any old electronics repair shop should be able to do it as well. The only annoying thing is that the unit is basically impossible to open neatly. You can remove the top cover if you're super careful and heat up the glue around the perimeter, but there's a high chance that something will break. It's easier to cut it open with a dremel and then glue it back together with some high quality two part epoxy.

Can't find pics of the Z3 repair, but here's how I opened up an E46 M3 MK20 for reference:

[heinzboehmer]

Ah found a Z3 pic:



Not the best picture, but you can just barely see the cracked soldered joints inside the red circle.

[ChapterM3]

Don't have any recommendations for places, but these "rebuilds" usually just involve opening the module up and reflowing some solder joints that have cracked over the years. Recently fixed a Z3 ABS module that was throwing ~all the codes by reflowing the two (obviously broken) solder joints for the pump power connector.

Definitely a very DIYable thing to do. Any old electronics repair shop should be able to do it as well. The only annoying thing is that the unit is basically impossible to open neatly. You can remove the top cover if you're super careful and heat up the glue around the perimeter, but there's a high chance that something will break. It's easier to cut it open with a dremel and then glue it back together with some high quality two part epoxy.

Can't find pics of the Z3 repair, but here's how I opened up an E46 M3 MK20 for reference:

Thank you for your comment!! All great info and things to consider - I'll send you a PM on this as well

[TC2]

You'll be without a module for two to three weeks, but I like to use ACTronics in the UK.
They advertise that you have to be a workshop to use them, but you can still create an account and ship them a module for repair.

They only take payment by bank transfer.

I feel that they have the best repair method and this video will give you an idea why.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxumtQskqTY

[ChapterM3]

You'll be without a module for two to three weeks, but I like to use ACTronics in the UK.
They advertise that you have to be a workshop to use them, but you can still create an account and ship them a module for repair.

They only take payment by bank transfer.

I feel that they have the best repair method and this video will give you an idea why.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxumtQskqTY

Wow this is incredible - thank you for posting! That is THE way to remanufacture

[ac427]

You'll be without a module for two to three weeks, but I like to use ACTronics in the UK.
They advertise that you have to be a workshop to use them, but you can still create an account and ship them a module for repair.

They only take payment by bank transfer.

I feel that they have the best repair method and this video will give you an idea why.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxumtQskqTY

Wow, they have some nice kit

[bigjae46]

You'll be without a module for two to three weeks, but I like to use ACTronics in the UK.
They advertise that you have to be a workshop to use them, but you can still create an account and ship them a module for repair.

They only take payment by bank transfer.

I feel that they have the best repair method and this video will give you an idea why.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxumtQskqTY

Awesome find...saved the video and followed them on Facebook.

What was the cost?

[heinzboehmer]

You'll be without a module for two to three weeks, but I like to use ACTronics in the UK.
They advertise that you have to be a workshop to use them, but you can still create an account and ship them a module for repair.

They only take payment by bank transfer.

I feel that they have the best repair method and this video will give you an idea why.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxumtQskqTY

Wow, yeah that's very comprehensive. Seems like the way to go.

[TC2]

Awesome find...saved the video and followed them on Facebook.

What was the cost?

The last Bosch 5.7 module I had them repair cost me £203.

[ChapterM3]

So update guys - I found a local electronics/computer repair store (that had incredible reviews) that said they would take a look at all the pins, etc. and see what they find. They also said they repaired another Bosch unit from a Lexus last year and said they'd be happy to to see what they could find in mine.

First of all shout out to heinzboehmer for talking me through a lot of this diagnosis, hearing me out and going back and forth on this topic 1-1 - I highly, highly appreciate the help and the banter back and forth man so thank you so much for that!!!!! Even if this thing is fried I still appreciate you taking the time to message back although you are on a ski trip! Thank you!!!!

To be clear about the issue I was experiencing and how I got here -
- I was getting a 5E26 code: ABS Module: Voltage supply, sensors
- This code has come on intermittently for 2 years, very much depending on the weather (hot or cold) and then finally has been on for the last 4 months constantly. No change in driving behavior or brake pedal at all: just a yellow DSC and Brake light, and of course no traction control. When the car was in Boston for example, I knew it was winter as this code and lights would come on and off until about May, and would not return really except on cold evenings.
- Reading the rest of the car's live data, it showed all sensors were working properly: speed sensor was reading 0,1,2,3,4 as you roll the car, steering angle reads zero at center (then correctly goes negative and positive as you turn), brake pressure sensors were both reading within spec for bar.
- At one point a few months ago I got two other codes: 5E43 Steering-angle sensor, internal and 5DF4 System voltage < 9 volts - The battery never died, and when I cleared these codes they have not come back since.
- This led me to believe that something was going on with the module, and I consulted with a few BMW techs and friends in the e46 world which all said sounds like an ABS module, although they typically don't go on our cars. If it was a yaw sensor, the live data would be different of course

So this electronics store I brought it to found that all these pins circled in red below, when seen under a microscope, were lacking adequate solder to maintain a connection, most likely over time just deterioration, etc.

They recommended repairing all the pins that they found that were lacking this solder.

Next steps - Test it in the car
They of course did not have a way to test the module so the only way to test is to put it back in the car. That part will come next and I will report back if this solved my issue, caused more issues, or just didn't work at all.

Areas of issue circled in red - and yes, that bottom circle is every one of those pins had either just enough connection or no continuity at all.



This is the result they handed back to me today -

[ac427]

So update guys - I found a local electronics/computer repair store (that had incredible reviews) that said they would take a look at all the pins, etc. and see what they find. They also said they repaired another Bosch unit from a Lexus last year and said they'd be happy to to see what they could find in mine.

First of all shout out to heinzboehmer for talking me through a lot of this diagnosis, hearing me out and going back and forth on this topic 1-1 - I highly, highly appreciate the help and the banter back and forth man so thank you so much for that!!!!! Even if this thing is fried I still appreciate you taking the time to message back although you are on a ski trip! Thank you!!!!

To be clear about the issue I was experiencing and how I got here -
- I was getting a 5E26 code: ABS Module: Voltage supply, sensors
- This code has come on intermittently for 2 years, very much depending on the weather (hot or cold) and then finally has been on for the last 4 months constantly. No change in driving behavior or brake pedal at all: just a yellow DSC and Brake light, and of course no traction control. When the car was in Boston for example, I knew it was winter as this code and lights would come on and off until about May, and would not return really except on cold evenings.
- Reading the rest of the car's live data, it showed all sensors were working properly: speed sensor was reading 0,1,2,3,4 as you roll the car, steering angle reads zero at center (then correctly goes negative and positive as you turn), brake pressure sensors were both reading within spec for bar.
- At one point a few months ago I got two other codes: 5E43 Steering-angle sensor, internal and 5DF4 System voltage < 9 volts - The battery never died, and when I cleared these codes they have not come back since.
- This led me to believe that something was going on with the module, and I consulted with a few BMW techs and friends in the e46 world which all said sounds like an ABS module, although they typically don't go on our cars. If it was a yaw sensor, the live data would be different of course

So this electronics store I brought it to found that all these pins circled in red below, when seen under a microscope, were lacking adequate solder to maintain a connection, most likely over time just deterioration, etc.

They recommended repairing all the pins that they found that were lacking this solder.

Next steps - Test it in the car
They of course did not have a way to test the module so the only way to test is to put it back in the car. That part will come next and I will report back if this solved my issue, caused more issues, or just didn't work at all.

Areas of issue circled in red - and yes, that bottom circle is every one of those pins had either just enough connection or no continuity at all.

I have a spare ABS unit which i opened years ago. I did think it was strange then, that the pins from the connector are just pushed through the board rather than soldered. I guess there is the vibration concern but why didn't put some expoey resin in, who knows.

[ChapterM3]

I guess there is solder in those connectors that are very slim and accurate from the factory but over time they tend to break. That's as far as I could understand from what this tech was saying.

ABS module should hopefully be back in by early next week and I'll report back with the final result - just got the box sealed back up and giving it adequate time to dry

[heinzboehmer]

No solder, they're christmas tree shaped, so the sides dig into the sides of the PCB through holes when the connector is pushed on.

Here's a closeup of the geometry: