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    When to do the Big3

    Just bought a 2006 vert SMG with 38k miles. Incredibly clean and looks like it is off the showroom floor. None of the big 3 has been addressed. I am taking delivery soon and am contemplating just doing the big 3 now to get it over with and for piece of mind. But with that low of mileage does it even make sense? I know RB is recommended around 80-100k.

    Should I just do vanos now and hold on RB and subframe?
    Should I get an oil analysis before doing anything with the RB?

    Would love to hear what everyone thinks. Also, any recs for shops to do the work in Central NY would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    #2
    Assuming this is a weekend cruiser then do the VANOS upgrades and get an oil analysis (for future reference). Forget everything else for the next 30 to 40 thousand miles.
    3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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      #3
      Before they explode and fail.

      Really though, at 38k, I would just enjoy the car..you may never put enough miles on it for these things to be a concern. I doubt you are tracking a vert.

      You can always check the vanos hub when the valve cover is off. The bearings will be fine for a long time unless the car was driven hard when cold and really abused. The RACP will fail, but that may be a 100k away.

      I would not even start to worry until maybe 60 or 70k miles.

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        #4
        I would just remove the 12 bolts holding the cam sleeves, clean the threads, add medium strength Loctie, for peace of mind .

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          #5
          best to just part out the car now to be on the safe side
          http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
          '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
          '01 M3, Imola/black

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            #6
            Do the verts have a different/stronger RACP than the coupe e46's?

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              #7
              Vanos now

              Rod bearings at 50k. It’s an 06 so likely not as bad or urgent as pre-LCI

              Sub frame when you do your rod bearings.
              '02 ///M3 Alpine White / Cinnamon 6MT

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                #8
                My vanos blew up at 150k miles to give you some piece of mind. I replaced the whole unit and did the rod bearings during the service. The rod bearings dident look that bad.

                My old car was driven hard from 80-130k without rod bearings or vanos.
                '02 M3 Oxford Green/Cinnamon 6MT
                WTB: TE37 18x9.5 in Silver

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                  #9
                  I got a 2004 2 years ago with 49k. Had subframe done prior, car was well cared for. Did so much reading on the big 3, that I convinced myself Vanos had to be done.

                  I left the RBs alone, multiple oil analysis show no copper or other concerns so I was content with that.

                  Did a complete VANOS overhaul with Beisan parts. Once I was in there… everything was pristine outside of the upper chain guide which was paper thin. I did the rebuilt and although the car is running good now I caused a few secondary issues addressing things that didn’t need “fixing” that took time and headaches to rectify. Moral is I really wish I didn’t muck with most of it.

                  If you do the Vanos keep it to the bare minimum. Cam bolts and chain guides. Seals and o-rings at 38k should be ok. Don’t underestimate being human and making problems out of nothing.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Halftim3 View Post
                    Do the verts have a different/stronger RACP than the coupe e46's?
                    I've done RB (you can see mine at 69k here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ad?view=stream)
                    I am doing vanos in a month. Just a beisan rebuild kit and a couple of things while I'm there. Last time I checked the hub it was fine, but, I just want it done and off my mind. I'll send back my core and sell the hub to recoup some of the cash.
                    Gonna skip the RACP because I don't push the car that hard, and neither did the previous owner as far as I can tell. There is a lot of chatter about if verts are less susceptible to this. I figure I'll just check any chance I get, and if I see cracking, I'll deal with it then.

                    My opinion, of course.

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                      #11
                      Do Vanos test, if all ok, look elsewhere, Vanos issues are overblown.
                      Last edited by maupineda; 03-26-2025, 06:23 AM.

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                        #12
                        Another point of reference.

                        '04 w/76k.
                        Subframe mounts were pristine. Did the CMP plates.
                        Vanos exhaust hub tab was broken, seals rock hard, valve block mildly gummed up. Chain guide looked fine. Threw the Beisan book at it minus the rattle parts, plus Lang bolts. Ran fine before, runs better now.
                        RB are unknown at this time, planning on doing them next winter as I won't put on a ton of miles until then.


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                          #13
                          Originally posted by maupineda View Post
                          Do Vanos test, if all ok, look elsewhere, Vanos issues are overblown.
                          Agree. I did my Vanos at 170k hard miles - no issues.

                          I'd also just do an oil analysis before rod-bearings, and inspect the bushings in the rear.

                          ..i'd just drive it.

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                            #14
                            Vanos: today. Total lottery when it happens, so low mileage and/or soft driving doesn't benefit you.

                            Rod bearings: when lead levels spike. Or, for a street driven car, if you don't want to do oil analysis, 100,000 miles. These seem to mostly wear with time spent above 7000 rpm, so... driving style/usage dependent.

                            Subframe: If you're driving it hard, today. If it's a cruiser, never. These tear with torque applications. If you're cruising around, you're not going to have an issue. If you drive it hard, you the sooner you lock it down the cheaper/better it'll be. Plates aren't really a fix. At minimum do foam, if you really want to make sure it's never a problem you need something like like the vincebar.

                            2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                            2012 LMB/Black 128i
                            2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Obioban View Post
                              Vanos: today. Total lottery when it happens, so low mileage and/or soft driving doesn't benefit you.

                              Rod bearings: when lead levels spike. Or, for a street driven car, if you don't want to do oil analysis, 100,000 miles. These seem to mostly wear with time spent above 7000 rpm, so... driving style/usage dependent.

                              Subframe: If you're driving it hard, today. If it's a cruiser, never. These tear with torque applications. If you're cruising around, you're not going to have an issue. If you drive it hard, you the sooner you lock it down the cheaper/better it'll be. Plates aren't really a fix. At minimum do foam, if you really want to make sure it's never a problem you need something like like the vincebar.
                              For subframe, wouldn't suspension setup also play into subframe cracking? Running stiffer sway bars or lowering the car putting extra stress contribute to causing subframe issues.

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