Hi All, any ideas what could be causing this? A 2005 M3 with 79K, the entire cooling system was refreshed at 65K, however the radiator was the only component that was not replaced since the mechanic at the time said it was fairly new. In hindsight I should have done it, however, I would like to rule out any other possibilities. Issue does not happen when the outside ambient temp is below 70 or so, only when it's above 80 degrees. As soon as I rev past about 5k, the needle begins to creep towards the 3/4 mark and if i don't ease off the revs, it will continue toward the red. Any ideas, suggestions? I read through some threads where it sounds like it could possibly be air in the system. I will also go ahead and order an OEM radiator but curious is there is anything else that could be causing this. Thanks much.
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Was there an issue when the cooling system was refreshed? Has the symptom existed ever since the refresh? Exactly what components were replaced during the refresh?Originally posted by ViN View Post
Are you free-revving to 5k?
Does it matter if A/C is on or off? -
There were no issues prior to the refresh. He had based it on the mileage and age of the car. I did have a receipt from the previous owner that the radiator was replaced 4 years prior but it would now be 6+ years old. All hoses, thermostat, water pump etc were replaced. It was a kit from FCP minus the radiator. To be honest, I didn't drive the car much once everything was replaced which was in late October. I did notice it last summer but it was only driven a few times in hot weather and it didn't always happen but given it it began happening after the refresh, could air in the system cause that or is it more likely the radiator? I am replacing the radiator but I want to make sure I don't miss anything else. It happens whether the AC is on or off. Thanks.Originally posted by eacmen View PostComment
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If the radiator is CSF it might explain it. They are a bitch to bleed. Air could explain it. If you turn the heat on when up to temp do you get heat coming out in the cabin vents?
You still have the factory pusher fan, puller fan, and fan shroud?
Make sure the fans spin when reaching operating temp.Comment
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Is water pump genuine or OEM?BMW / E46M Interior & Trim Restoration.
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...ch-restorationComment
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Yes, all factory components still on. It's an OEM radiator but since it's now over 8 years old, I have another on order. The heat functions normally when up to temp through vents which is what is baffling. I will ask the mechanic to bleed again once he replaces the rad. Thanks for all of your help.Originally posted by eacmen View PostComment
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make sure clutch fan starts spinning when up to temp. they are known to failOriginally posted by ViN View PostComment
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You can also use INPA to test the electric engine/radiator fan. Just to see if it can manage full speed.
Did you get a quote for a new OEM radiator?
How much are they?Comment
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I plan on ordering one from Bimmerworld. I see them listed for around $700.Originally posted by ac427 View PostComment
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It is sounding like a headgasket to me......
Test the cooling system for hydrocarbons.Comment
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