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Bendpak, Rotary, Forward are all good brands.
I installed a 2 post Forward lift without a cross bar, which does require a thicker/more sturdy foundation but really increases options if you have limited ceiling height. That said I'd consider an asymmetric lift for sports cars due to the door opening difficulties on a symmetric lift.
Consider minimum lift arm height - I have to use race ramps to get it high enough to get the arms under a stock height E46.
For alignments it would be nice to have a 4 post lift - I've heard of people putting scissor lifts on top of a 4 post lift to get the ability to remove wheels, but at the expense of access.
Biggest things that will drive your decision is space constraints, the heaviest vehicle you need to lift, foundation/footing, and what work you plan to do.
I went back and forth on a 2 or 4 post and ended up with a 4-post, mostly so I could store another car in the garage easily. To do suspension/take the wheels off, I've been using the OEM e46 scissor jack to lift up whatever tire, then swapping in a low jackstand so the wheel is just above the 4-post ramp. Repeated on the other side. Once all four tires are off the ramps, it's super easy to pull the wheels off and do suspension. And of course, you have all the room under the car.
Another (better) option is using quickjacks on top of a 4-post...but I don't have a set, and my method seems to be working good enough.
Be careful with cheap chinese crap, lots of that out there.
I'd check your garage floor for a 2 post. Especially newer homes, the foundation is usually not level, thick enough, and/or strong enough. I want to say you need something 6" thick, reinforced, 3k psi...or something like that. If the garage floor doesn't meet the specs then you can use sonotubes, steel rebar and pour some fiber reinforced concrete.
Be careful with cheap chinese crap, lots of that out there.
I'd check your garage floor for a 2 post. Especially newer homes, the foundation is usually not level, thick enough, and/or strong enough. I want to say you need something 6" thick, reinforced, 3k psi...or something like that. If the garage floor doesn't meet the specs then you can use sonotubes, steel rebar and pour some fiber reinforced concrete.
We are closing on a 2002 built home, not sure how I can find out that thickness of the current floor or if it was reinforced or not. May have to bring a contractor that probably can find out.
definitely a 2 post for me with the work I do on all my cars.
We are closing on a 2002 built home, not sure how I can find out that thickness of the current floor or if it was reinforced or not. May have to bring a contractor that probably can find out.
definitely a 2 post for me with the work I do on all my cars.
If you're not convinced a 2 post is the only way...just hit your head on the ramps of a 4 post and you will be instantly converted to a 2 post guy.
A concrete guy can figure it out. Probably want to hire one to install the anchors unless you have blueprints or some documentation on what the foundation was poured with. Local building codes may have some minimum requirement but I'd still double check.
Nussbaum is what I would have if I could afford it, but in the meantime I have used rotary's that I refurbished and they are tanks (knock on wood, lol).
Nussbaum is what I would have if I could afford it, but in the meantime I have used rotary's that I refurbished and they are tanks (knock on wood, lol).
Yeah if the Rotary dealer would have called me back I would have ended up with one of those!
Yeah if the Rotary dealer would have called me back I would have ended up with one of those!
I have (3) used 7ks I bought of FB marketplace, less total investment than 1 new Nussbaum. The (2) with date codes are from the early 90s. Deals are out there, but ya if buying new Nussbaum all the way.
There are very clear guidelines on slab requirements depending on the lift you go with. Statically most basic 4-6" slabs with 1/4" wire mesh reinforcement is probably fine, but they have to account for seismic activity, imperfect installations, lack of maintenance, etc. which means rebar and thicker slabs with epoxied anchors. All very much overkill but then you will never second guess it.
There are very clear guidelines on slab requirements depending on the lift you go with. Statically most basic 4-6" slabs with 1/4" wire mesh reinforcement is probably fine, but they have to account for seismic activity, imperfect installations, lack of maintenance, etc. which means rebar and thicker slabs with epoxied anchors. All very much overkill but then you will never second guess it.
The nussbaum I got spec'd 10”. It was a new garage build so I had builder put 2 12” footers under where the posts are.
I've had a 2 post and a 4 post. If I could only have one lift, a 4 post with scissor jacks in the middle is the one IMO. Lots of benefits:
1) anything where the wheels don't come off is WAY faster. Fluid changes, access to below while doing things like cooling systems, etc, is easier than the song and dance of getting the arms placed and lifting on a 2 post
2) anything where you need preload (almost all suspension work) is way easier on a 4 post
3) Corner balancing on a 4 post is pretty great, if you have the under rear control arm height adjusters. Takes literally minutes, once the scales are leveled
4) fitting 2 cars in one garage bay works much better with a 4 post. Fast to drive on and lift up.
5) you need a lot less floor concrete thickness.
For my next garage, I want one of each. But if I could only have one-- for sure a 4 post with two scissor jacks floating in it.
2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
2012 LMB/Black 128i
2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan
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