Porsche Brembo 996 BBK conversion

[WOLFN8TR]

Wow that guide pin sure is close to the rotor!

[maupineda]

Today I just fit test the Brembos as I wanted to confirm I won't lose any swept area. I am happy to confirm it uses almost 100% of the rotor, I think there is like 0.5mm towards the inner radii that the pad does not cover. BTW, the OE setup does use the whole rotor at the rear. BTW, I confirm those are 2.7L Front pads

[0-60motorsports]

Excellent thread with some great info. Thanks OP.

[Casa de Mesa]

to answer my own question... yes it's the right line. it fits concave and convex lines. thanks tbonem3 and everyone else for contributing to this thread. i also used xpme46m3's thread that helped me source all parts i needed from rockauto. yes it was cheaper to order them from the US

i had to modify some things. my brackets are from epytec. i had to grind down a bit on the front to fit the brackets and i had to shorten the bolts. on the rear i had to shorten the pins where the pads are sitting. only the two that are on the outside on both calipers. oh and i had one stripped brake disc bolt on the front and i had to redo the brake line on the left rear. other than that, i'm happy that this project is finished. from sourcing calipers to today took a few months. 😅

here are some pictures

Wow, those look spectacular! Makes me want to get an Alpine White M3. Congrats on the final product! Really looks amazing.

[WOLFN8TR]

Looks Great!

[Zekarus]

is this the right line? the bmw lines have a nice groove where the end from the car goes in. this line looks like the same that comes from the car. it screws together but i want to get sure before i'm bleeding the car.

to answer my own question... yes it's the right line. it fits concave and convex lines. thanks tbonem3 and everyone else for contributing to this thread. i also used xpme46m3's thread that helped me source all parts i needed from rockauto. yes it was cheaper to order them from the US

i had to modify some things. my brackets are from epytec. i had to grind down a bit on the front to fit the brackets and i had to shorten the bolts. on the rear i had to shorten the pins where the pads are sitting. only the two that are on the outside on both calipers. oh and i had one stripped brake disc bolt on the front and i had to redo the brake line on the left rear. other than that, i'm happy that this project is finished. from sourcing calipers to today took a few months. 😅

here are some pictures

[Casa de Mesa]

Saving unsprung weight!!

[maupineda]

I weighted the pistons and there are only 2grams of weight difference, the OE ones are a tad "heavier"

OE



Centric

[Zekarus]

is this the right line? the bmw lines have a nice groove where the end from the car goes in. this line looks like the same that comes from the car. it screws together but i want to get sure before i'm bleeding the car.

[Titaniu//M]

This project is finally coming together for me, and I am finishing up the paint on 2 remaining calipers. However, my parts ordering debacle is apparently not over. First I received 2 crossover lines that were different part numbers, but the same part. Then, I tore one of the rear dust boots so I ordered a new seal kit for the rear calipers from Amazon. I received it today and only got 1 seal. So for those of you looking to buy parts for this, do not order the seal kits from Amazon. Not really a "caliper kit" as the description suggests.

[D-O]

I used the centric seal kits and several centric pistons when I did my conversion. No issues or problems. As Tyler pointed out, you are talking about a difference of hundredths of a millimeter.

If all else fails you can order the proper lube from https://www.zeckhausen.com/ - it does make assembly much easier.

Jesse

[maupineda]

In my experience, the stoptech (centric owned) seals are slightly looser than OE brembo, so their pistons also being slightly larger should be fine. You're also talking about hundredths of a millimeter.

A trick I tried once was when I had one seal feel too tight, I moved it over to a bore where the fit was a little too loose, then moved that looser seal back over to the first bore where things were too tight. Both then were snug.

I would highly suggest using proper install lube rather than brake fluid - it provides much more lubricity and makes it easier to push the pistons past the new seals. If you bought the new seals off ebay (Ohiomotorsports), then it comes with proper lube.

Hi, I did not source my seals from them but went with the centric kit from FCP Euro. I wonder if they will bring some lube with them. if not, is this something I can source from the typical auto parts stores (Autozone, etc)?

[KhanArt]

I have Textar pads and I had to remove the pins as well. Might need to try removing the adhesive since my Front brakes randomly make loud noises during slow braking if I am not mistaken.

[WOLFN8TR]

anyone using the front dampers? do you leave them as they are for easier reuse or do you adhere them to the brake pads?
And by the way my rear pads (front Porsche) from ate arrived with a pin that i had to remove.

I initially installed the fronts without the dampers. You can here the pistons engaging the pads when applying the brakes. I ended up removing the adhesive from the dampers and installing them, it reduced the noise about 50%. My rear ATE pads also came with that pin, remove and install.

[Zekarus]

I don't see how they'd work (dampen vibrations), if they're not fixed to the pads. The pads are already mostly immobilized by the pins and the spring clip on top. What keeps the pad then from vibrating or moving that little bit that creates noise? I assume it's these dampers stuck to the pad and stuck inside the pistons.

Word of advice- the temptation to adhere these dampers to the pad before install is strong, but it will screw you up unless you guess perfectly. It's best to stick the dampers into the pistons, then peel the backing, and stick the pad to them, as the pad is resting on the pins.

great advice will do it like you suggest! thanks!