Engine Oil Return Line

[BL92]

Has anyone installed or reviewed RE flexible stainless-steel oil return line between the valve cover and the oil pan.?

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/BMW-Oil-System/Engine-Oil-Return-Line-Upgrade-S54-Engine-Z3-Z4-E46.html

[Cubieman]

I can't say much except the quality looks good, I have yet to install it.
My return line has a slight kink in it for reasons unknown, I would have gone OEM but didn't want to remove the headers.

[ac427]

It looks like a nice piece of kit but didn't later cars get a nice braided stainless hose, albeit at the other end of the pipe?

[bavarian3]

I've used this part. I would recommend the OE part when possible.

This line take a little effort to get it away from leaning against the headers. Also grab an extra hose clamp for the bottom as it only comes with one.

[BL92]

It looks like a nice piece of kit but didn't later cars get a nice braided stainless hose, albeit at the other end of the pipe?

Mines a Nov 01, I got the old line with the rubber hose at the end, the stainless hose was from Feb 2002

This line take a little effort to get it away from leaning against the headers. Also grab an extra hose clamp for the bottom as it only comes with one.

Makes sense being flexible hose, Spot on, i will rethink this 1 then

Cheers

[ac427]

Mines a Nov 01, I got the old line with the rubber hose at the end, the stainless hose was from Feb 2002





Makes sense being flexible hose, Spot on, i will rethink this 1 then

Cheers

It does sound like a part will no real use. BMW probably went with a solid pipe rather than a hose because a hose would take a roasting between the headers.

[ATB88]

I can't say much except the quality looks good, I have yet to install it.
My return line has a slight kink in it for reasons unknown, I would have gone OEM but didn't want to remove the headers.

Installation of the updated BMW line can totally be done without removing headers. Little bit of a pain to tighten that higher up bolt that holds the line to the block, but patience, a small ratchet, and average size hands can do it.

[Cubieman]

Installation of the updated BMW line can totally be done without removing headers. Little bit of a pain to tighten that higher up bolt that holds the line to the block, but patience, a small ratchet, and average size hands can do it.

Damn, I'll likely just buy that then, I figured the structure that holds the line>block wouldn't clear the headers and that was the issue. I wonder if having SSV1'S would make any difference.

[ATB88]

Damn, I'll likely just buy that then, I figured the structure that holds the line>block wouldn't clear the headers and that was the issue. I wonder if having SSV1'S would make any difference.

I did the install with SSV1s in place Definitely makes it a little tighter in there than standard euro headers, but with patience, knuckle squeezing, and some foul language, you can have it done in 5 minutes. Just make sure that you get a new AN fitting (I used this one) and a crush washer for it.

[bavarian3]

I did the install with SSV1s in place Definitely makes it a little tighter in there than standard euro headers, but with patience, knuckle squeezing, and some foul language, you can have it done in 5 minutes. Just make sure that you get a new AN fitting (I used this one) and a crush washer for it.

Impressive you pulled this off. I would advise against it though. I tried with euro headers even, but just ended up bending and scraping up the line, headers, and your knuckles. So much easier to just unbolt the rear most manifold and back it off enough to get the line through.

[ATB88]

Impressive you pulled this off. I would advise against it though. I tried with euro headers even, but just ended up bending and scraping up the line, headers, and your knuckles. So much easier to just unbolt the rear most manifold and back it off enough to get the line through.

To each their own -- I thought it was pretty simple to snake the line up through the headers in place and put the bottom bracket bolt in by hand, and the banjo bolt at the top to the valve cover. Nothing getting scratched there. With those two bolts holding the line in place. From there I found a few minutes of playing with my hand geometry to thread that one tricky middle bolt far preferable to undoing and then re-doing 9 of those cursed header nuts (which also requires taking off the header heat shields etc). I was able to do it on my back, but it's possible I had an easier time because my front subframe was lowered? Idk

[ac427]

What is the point of this part over the OEM part?

[BL92]

What is the point of this part over the OEM part?

Cost / install

OE is $441 USD delivered from Schmiedmann including the M12 x 1.5 to AN6 ( 11-12-7-833-008 )
RE is $286 USD delivered


Below is RE sales Blurb


Since the fitting is not replaceable or repairable, the entire line must be replaced. However, there are a few issues with replacement of this line;

1. The OEM line is very expensive. At least check, the line was over $305 from the dealer.
2. Removal and re installation is very time consuming. Since the top of the line is located between the #4 and #5 manifold tubes, the entire exhaust manifold must be removed to be able to remove and reinstall the replacement OEM line.

A simpler, smarter solution


By creating a fulling braided stainless line, our replacement line can be installed more easily, allowing to snake between the required manifold tubes with much more easy. No longer is the manifold required to be separated from the head for installation. Removal of the defective OEM line can be done in pieces, as it can be cut (destroyed) to be removed since it is no longer being used.

[JakeM346]

Cost / install

OE is $441 USD delivered from Schmiedmann including the M12 x 1.5 to AN6 ( 11-12-7-833-008 )
RE is $286 USD delivered


Below is RE sales Blurb


Since the fitting is not replaceable or repairable, the entire line must be replaced. However, there are a few issues with replacement of this line;

1. The OEM line is very expensive. At least check, the line was over $305 from the dealer.
2. Removal and re installation is very time consuming. Since the top of the line is located between the #4 and #5 manifold tubes, the entire exhaust manifold must be removed to be able to remove and reinstall the replacement OEM line.

A simpler, smarter solution


By creating a fulling braided stainless line, our replacement line can be installed more easily, allowing to snake between the required manifold tubes with much more easy. No longer is the manifold required to be separated from the head for installation. Removal of the defective OEM line can be done in pieces, as it can be cut (destroyed) to be removed since it is no longer being used.

Nah this sounds like jibberish to me. OE line is completely fine and not really a hassle to replace....my 2 cents

[Cubieman]

Turner shows the genuine part just under $300, and the AN fitting at $78, ouch.

I may just use the rogue simply because of cost as much as I hate to use non-OEM parts I feel it would be ok in the situation.