old owner's dilemma_opinions / suggestions/ guidances needed

[chalaka]

car's mileage is around 211,000 km.

purchased since 2007, 18 years of ownership and continue (maybe).

not too long before, i finally got the critical SMG issue addressed, and starts to DD with it.

then .. more issues are coming up ~

something's just not normal like before .. as car's definitely old and need a lot of maintenance

new to me issues experience summary:

- occasional slight jerking, dipping in rpm during idle
- acceleration isn't that... complete .. feels flat at high gears ..
- humming noise at right side somewhere ..
- cosmetic issues: front bumper, rear bumper gap ..interior leather wear
- rear o2 errors: exhaust smells super stinging
- leaking center LSD seal
- noisy steering pump
- door lock issues: passenger side is worse than driver side
- suddenly can't crank up on 8/28

so...
- car's at shop just got starter replaced
- rear 2 wheel bearing replaced
- transmission support changed
- LSD center seal changed
- LSD fluid changed

what's next? so i can improve the lost driving performance?

- change injector ? (old ones since 2007, had been using those ultrasonic cleaning 2 times in their current life span, back in 2010 i think)
- change coil?
- fuel pump ? (installed since 2013 @ 155000 km)
- alternator regulator? (current one was installed new in 2007)
- spark plug? (denso installed back in 2013 @ 150000km)
- MAF
- got a used GM5 module, pending replacement


how do i check if the TTFS tune is still working as it intends to? really hate to deal with software related items .. lost all the programs and tune files ..

incomplete thoughts and plan right now ..
will see how it goes when i pick up the car after work today ..

[Slideways]

First and foremost, have your shop do a compression and cylinder leakdown test. These are the best ways to gauge the health of the engine. If it passes those tests, I would promptly remove the TTFS tune in favor of the factory tune and swap the spark plugs back to NGKs.

[chalaka]

First and foremost, have your shop do a compression and cylinder leakdown test. This is the best way to gauge the health of the engine. If it passes those tests, I would promptly remove the TTFS tune in favor of the factory tune and replace the spark plugs back to NGKs.

thank you for the suggestion~

Note down on the NGKs.

as for the tune, it's being done for so long, any known side effects of TTFS tune?

[chalaka]

First and foremost, have your shop do a compression and cylinder leakdown test. These are the best ways to gauge the health of the engine. If it passes those tests, I would promptly remove the TTFS tune in favor of the factory tune and swap the spark plugs back to NGKs.

just place order with Hassan's tune, thank you for the TTFS reminder ..
(did a quick search to realize there was a story behind it ... @@|| )

[maw1124]

thank you for the suggestion~

Note down on the NGKs.

as for the tune, it's being done for so long, any known side effects of TTFS tune?

I’m more suspicious of the plugs than the tune. NGK Platinum.

You hate to deal with software issues so don’t deal with software until last. I’ve seen these cars running strong at 300k miles on tunes (Active Autowerke).

After plugs, fuel filter and pump, then see what you have, would be my advice. You may not even need a pump or injectors, just a filter. Probably running on the original. All these tunes do is advance timing as a general matter, and that depends on good fuel and spark plugs.

Get your fuel and spark right, then let’s see what’s what. After that, maybe MAF, maybe not.

GL

maw

[TexaZ3]

I would address lambdas first. Once done, check vanos, loss of pickup on higher gears might suggest issues with solenoid pack, so is uneven jerky idle.

[chalaka]

thank you TexaZ3 and maw1124 for the suggestions.~

will get them address 1 by 1 i guess ..

just got the new spark plug and MAF in ..

found out diff area is leaking after rear wheel bearing's replacement from shop, so car's in for check and belt/tensioner work ..

will change out plug, swap coil between 5 and 6, see if misfire counts switch to 5, then i know coil is bad ..

fuel pump / filter is next ..

hope i can stop spending money on parts and labor soon, and have a short break on this ordeal

[TexaZ3]

If the coil packs were never replaced, I'd do them all 6. Replacing one by one is just a sure way to get aggravated 6 times.

[chalaka]

If the coil packs were never replaced, I'd do them all 6. Replacing one by one is just a sure way to get aggravated 6 times.

they were replaced once, all 6 during my ownership ..but can't find the record on when .. but at least 8 years ago ..
(wonder if they went bad easily)

[chalaka]

so to update a bit on my progress, and hope it might be meaningful to someone in the middle of troubleshooting journey.

- paid Hassan to retune. process was quick, like done in 5 minutues. just 1 base tune, no further logging or retune was done. (felt less loved to be honest ..but end result is still positive )
- no dyno this time, just want a piece of mind after reading about the TTFS issue.
Result: car did pull stronger at the high rpm range, continuously manner all the way to the redline. man .. not a placebo effect i think, but what can i say..(going from evolve --> ttfs --> hassan) .. i hope it ends with Hassan's tune for life for me~
(Hassan said TTFS's vanos setting was weird, and lean at the high end..etc)
(chase a ford Mach e, and i can definitely keep up. . not sure which version that E was though, let's say, the acceleration gave me just that much confidence after the retune)
(gear shifting is still a bit ..sluggish as always (not pairing up with the better tunning type of impression.. smg setting at the max s5 already)

so now the true deals, overall car's well-being..

- change out all 6 spark plugs to NGK's
- new MAF
- swap coil #6 and coil#5, haven't do the scan yet, hope the misfire counts switch to cylinder #5 from #6, so i know it's a bad coil, otherwise i need to work on the (1)injector test, and (2)leak test, and (3)compression test (oh boy)
Result: since starter was newly replaced, car cranks up with that healthy young note, however, car still has that cold start dipping in rpm symptom, but seems to be slightly "different", maybe it's due to the order change of the cylinder#6 coil (we'll see after i pull out the scan result)

so since it's still dipping a bit, but recover faster this time. i think there's still some positive benefits from the new spark plugs.
(old ones are showing pale white head, and tips are a bit dull/thin out? like, melted a bit, maybe this is result from the lean tuning result of the TTFS?)

Will try to work on the GM5 door locking issue next first, then come back to the dipping rpm issues by:
1. injector test
2. leak test
3. compression test
4. fuel pump / line / regulator /
5. engine mount (those are old so due to replacement soon)
6. track down weird humming still, probably at the front .. since i have replaced the rear wheel bearing
7. replace all six coil eventually.

will i be re in love with this e46m3 again ..
probably.. it did drive well, still that aggressive feeling compare to a lot of new cars .. but .. man, just a lot of work need to be done with it still ..

[maw1124]

Good update

I can't speak to VANOS, but Hassan can... and did. Plugs showing lean to me points to injectors, but fuel pressure can be checked at the rail without changing any parts. VANOS might overrule both and is more common than both, so maybe start there.

When these cars are running right I don't know much that's more fun. Maybe an air cooled Porsche or an E9X, a Nizmo or an SL55K.

I say work through it and see where you land. Thanks for bringing us on the journey.

I would check fuel at the rail first, VANOS second. I run one step cooler plugs on my Kompressor but I don't think that's your problem. I think you have good fuel, good spark and a VANOS problem, unfortunately.

maw

[chalaka]

Good update

I can't speak to VANOS, but Hassan can... and did. Plugs showing lean to me points to injectors, but fuel pressure can be checked at the rail without changing any parts. VANOS might overrule both and is more common than both, so maybe start there.

When these cars are running right I don't know much that's more fun. Maybe an air cooled Porsche or an E9X, a Nizmo or an SL55K.

I say work through it and see where you land. Thanks for bringing us on the journey.

I would check fuel at the rail first, VANOS second. I run one step cooler plugs on my Kompressor but I don't think that's your problem. I think you have good fuel, good spark and a VANOS problem, unfortunately.

maw

thank you for the insight and experience sharing. that helps learning.
I will try to take out that small filter next to the VANOS to clean it, maybe it's clogged, result in having a weird dip in rpm..

but fuel pressure and injector are highly in questions as well..injectors are old since 2007 ..or even older..

[maw1124]

thank you for the insight and experience sharing. that helps learning.
I will try to take out that small filter next to the VANOS to clean it, maybe it's clogged, result in having a weird dip in rpm..

but fuel pressure and injector are highly in questions as well..injectors are old since 2007 ..or even older..

Sensible and cheap way to proceed… I agree.

maw