Originally posted by 6speedS54
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DIY: Getrag 420G Transmission Detent Compression Spring and Locking Pin Replacement
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Originally posted by sapote View Post
There are no detent parts at the rear. Only at the top right rear, front left and rear left, so which ones do you want to know?
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Originally posted by 6speedS54 View Post
front left, above the slave cylinder. I think you replied to one of my previous messages a while back. I just changed my clutch (should have changed all detents and whatever the other pieces are called, but I didn't) hoping to resolve shifter not going in fully intermittently and then popping out when clutch is released. Clutch and shifter bushings didn't fix it. So this is the only other thing I could change in a hope of fixing it.
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Originally posted by eacmen View Post
Is the one with the press-fit cap? I think i read about someone doing that with the trans in but I just did it myself during a clutch job and I dont know how you would press that cap back in with the transmission in the car. I required some healthy hits with a dead blow.
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Originally posted by 6speedS54 View Post
wow, really? you're talking about the cap with the GPS on? I've seen some videos where it's threaded and some with press fit. Didn't realize if press fit it would be tough to get it back on. Maybe I can place a piece of rubber on a sledge hammer and give it a gentle push. perhaps the weight will push it in.
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The cap for the SMG version is press fit. You can do it in the car, its terrible, but I have done it. I would not recommend it though.
The 6MT has the GPS in this location and it is threaded into the transmission.'09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
Email to [email protected]
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Originally posted by George Hill View PostThe cap for the SMG version is press fit. You can do it in the car, its terrible, but I have done it. I would not recommend it though.
The 6MT has the GPS in this location and it is threaded into the transmission.
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Originally posted by 6speedS54 View Postany tips on easiest way to remove caps from the reverse and 5th while trans is in place?
Seriously. You can make an arguable case to fit the Neutral detent cap on an SMG car because of all the SMG hydraulic components and what it takes to remove them. But on a 6MT car take the trans out and do everything on the bench. Personally I have never seen a detent issue on those 420g detent pins, but I have seen the caps seep. If its just to seal them up and they are not actively leaking then I would wait until the clutch needs to be serviced and not worry about it now.
'09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
Email to [email protected]
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Originally posted by George Hill View Post
Remove the transmission.
Seriously. You can make an arguable case to fit the Neutral detent cap on an SMG car because of all the SMG hydraulic components and what it takes to remove them. But on a 6MT car take the trans out and do everything on the bench. Personally I have never seen a detent issue on those 420g detent pins, but I have seen the caps seep. If its just to seal them up and they are not actively leaking then I would wait until the clutch needs to be serviced and not worry about it now.
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Originally posted by 6speedS54 View Post
any tips on easiest way to remove caps from the reverse and 5th while trans is in place?
what specific gears or happened to all gears?
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Originally posted by sapote View Post
I think you meant the two on the bell housing which are for the shifter gate selection which I don’t think the cause of gear popping off issues.
what specific gears or happened to all gears?
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Originally posted by 6speedS54 View Post
mostly Reverse, 1/2/3, it feels as if the gear doesn't go in fully. I had a month where it was fine no issue, then a couple of weeks ago intermittent popouts. I've changed slave cylinder and bled it multiple times, now clutch/pivot/fork/guide sleeve/DMF and shifter linkage. The popout occurs when it doesn't go in fully and I release the clutch, pretty gently at that. There is no clicking of any sort when it happens. When in gear it doesn't popout. What I understand its either detents or dog teeth or both.
R wasn't used enough to cause the worn dogteeth so I don't think dogteeth is the reason.
I think the cause:
* clutch not release fully during shifting
* the detent pins/balls at the upper right rear of the box jammed. New parts needed. only replace the parts in the odd holes of the total 5 holes. The even holes are for the interlocking so don't touch them.Last edited by sapote; 09-25-2025, 07:25 AM.
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Originally posted by sapote View Post
Can you tell if it doesn't go in fully during shifting by the shifter stick?
R wasn't used enough to cause the worn dogteeth so I don't think dogteeth is not the reason.
I think the cause:
* clutch not release fully during shifting
* the detent pins/balls at the upper right rear of the box jammed. New parts needed. only replace the parts in the odd holes of the total 5 holes. The even holes are for the interlocking so don't touch them.
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Originally posted by 6speedS54 View Post
Yeah, I feel it by the shifter stick, feels like it doesn’t travel as far as when it’s in. Same with reverse, sometimes a give it a little extra force and it slips in with a slight crunch. Not sure how the clutch wouldn’t release fully as I just changed it.
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Originally posted by sapote View Post
test: engine off, in first gear, jack up the rear wheels, push the 3rd pedal down to where you do normally for shifting, then have a helper rotate the wheels and see if they rotate freely or as in neutral or heavy dragging by the dragging clutch.
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