Solved: Follow the timing procedure properly with the vanos install. Vanos pistons weren't fully seated into the unit on install, causing the no start. Retimed the engine and fired right up.
Back again with more issues on this replacement engine. I'm stumped at this point and I can't figure out why the engine won't fire. At most I am getting small attempts to fire (1-2 small sputters or a backfire).
All engine accessories, sensors, injectors, etc, came from a running engine when the engine blew up. So everything is assumed functional. Engine just had a full service from being taken from a running/driving donor car. Head gasket, rod bearings, all other gaskets. Everything but rods and crank out.
Air: Cranking with open ITB's on MAP + IAT, I've ran the old engine like this before when working on it. Don't see why this would cause an issue now. I also went and attached the airbox to be sure and still no luck
Fuel: Fuel pump primes and there is a smell of fuel in the cylinders when I pulled the plugs for a compression test. I checked fuel pressure at the regulator block post filter and it appears good pressure. I used a cheapo tire gauge because this is what I had on hand, getting a fuel pressure tester today and will check for the full 5 bar
Spark: Brand new plugs and checked spark on all 6 coils/cylinders. Everything is good.
Compression: Compression ran even across all 6 cylinders at 90psi +-1. I've never comp tested a dead cold engine, but I'd imagine this is inline for a new refreshed never ran engine. Also since there is little to no variability between cylinders this also reinforces the idea that it's okay for a cold engine.
Error codes: None present
Sensors: Everything is plugged in, I can't directly see anything missing or unplugged.
Leading issue: The only thing I can think at this point is that my timing is 180 degress off. It's not my first time timing from head off, and I feel like it would be hard to get these engines 180 off. When I did the original timing, I used the BMW timing tool for the cams with the crank locked at TDC with the pin. Engine was cranked by hand excessively and it was physically in time.
Thoughts or suggestions? I'm trying to avoid pulling to check timing since I'm out of the crush washers for the drain in the VC, but it's the last thing I can think of being the issue. Hoping I can push to get this car back on track before Pitt Race closes for good, but I'm trying to not throw money at it without aim.
Back again with more issues on this replacement engine. I'm stumped at this point and I can't figure out why the engine won't fire. At most I am getting small attempts to fire (1-2 small sputters or a backfire).
All engine accessories, sensors, injectors, etc, came from a running engine when the engine blew up. So everything is assumed functional. Engine just had a full service from being taken from a running/driving donor car. Head gasket, rod bearings, all other gaskets. Everything but rods and crank out.
Air: Cranking with open ITB's on MAP + IAT, I've ran the old engine like this before when working on it. Don't see why this would cause an issue now. I also went and attached the airbox to be sure and still no luck
Fuel: Fuel pump primes and there is a smell of fuel in the cylinders when I pulled the plugs for a compression test. I checked fuel pressure at the regulator block post filter and it appears good pressure. I used a cheapo tire gauge because this is what I had on hand, getting a fuel pressure tester today and will check for the full 5 bar
Spark: Brand new plugs and checked spark on all 6 coils/cylinders. Everything is good.
Compression: Compression ran even across all 6 cylinders at 90psi +-1. I've never comp tested a dead cold engine, but I'd imagine this is inline for a new refreshed never ran engine. Also since there is little to no variability between cylinders this also reinforces the idea that it's okay for a cold engine.
Error codes: None present
Sensors: Everything is plugged in, I can't directly see anything missing or unplugged.
Leading issue: The only thing I can think at this point is that my timing is 180 degress off. It's not my first time timing from head off, and I feel like it would be hard to get these engines 180 off. When I did the original timing, I used the BMW timing tool for the cams with the crank locked at TDC with the pin. Engine was cranked by hand excessively and it was physically in time.
Thoughts or suggestions? I'm trying to avoid pulling to check timing since I'm out of the crush washers for the drain in the VC, but it's the last thing I can think of being the issue. Hoping I can push to get this car back on track before Pitt Race closes for good, but I'm trying to not throw money at it without aim.
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