Difficulty Retarding Camshafts

[Bob Sacamano]

I'm working to bulletproofing my VANOS and am at the stage where I need to retard the camshafts. I am following the Beisan procedure and also referencing the ShopLifeTV and Fatboys Garage YouTube guides. I have the engine at TDC with the BMW locking pin inserted. I have also removed the solenoid pack and VANOS splined shaft covers.

For the life of me, I cannot seem to retard the exhaust cam to get the cam aligning pin where it ought to be. It barely moves with a large 24mm open wrench. The intake is basically dead-on, although I didn't have to mess with retarding it to get it there.

Any ideas? Just hit it with my purse?

Thank you.

[sapote]

I have the engine at TDC with the BMW locking pin inserted. I have also removed the solenoid pack and VANOS splined shaft covers.

For the life of me, I cannot seem to retard the exhaust cam.
Thank you.

What is the vanos splined shaft cover? You mean the hub held by 6 10mm bolts?

To turn the cam easily: loosen the hub bolts.

[Bob Sacamano]

The two covers on the front of the VANOS (one intake and one exhaust). Each is held by 3x 5mm hex bolts.

[Bob Sacamano]

What is the vanos splined shaft cover? You mean the hub held by 6 10mm bolts?

To turn the cam easily: loosen the hub bolts.

I haven’t removed the VANOS yet. Everyone is saying to get the cams fully retarded before removing the VANOS. Are you suggesting that’s not necessary?

[sapote]

The two covers on the front of the VANOS (one intake and one exhaust). Each is held by 3x 5mm hex bolts.

They are piston covers.

You have done with the cam sleeve bolts Loctite, and in the process of intalling the vanos back and setting the timing?
Turn the cams to align with the pin when the vanos was removed and hub bolts loosen.

[sapote]

I haven’t removed the VANOS yet. Everyone is saying to get the cams fully retarded before removing the VANOS. Are you suggesting that’s not necessary?

With crank at TDC compress, just remove the vanos and the hubs, then set the cams as you like.

[sapote]

You have to remove the hubs to get to the cam sleeve bolts, and this makes turning the cams so easy

[Bob Sacamano]

You have to remove the hubs to get to the cam sleeve bolts, and this makes turning the cams so easy

Just so I understand: why then does everyone suggest fully retarding the cams and confirming with the timing block before removing the VANOS?

[Slideways]

Just so I understand: why then does everyone suggest fully regarding the cams and confirming with the timing block before removing the VANOS?

Rock the cam back and forth slightly to get it to move and then fully retard it. You are doing this so you can push the exhaust splined shaft forward and easily access the connection between exhaust splined gear and VANOS exhaust piston to undo them with the 7mm and 10mm wrenches.

Continue following the Beisan instructions.

[sapote]

Just so I understand: why then does everyone suggest fully retarding the cams and confirming with the timing block before removing the VANOS?

I don't know why people doing the hard way.
I just remove the vanos and loosen the hub bolts, then it's easy to turn the cams.

Nothing's wrong with removing the vanos before setting the cams to TDC, as long as the crank is already at the TDC.

[eacmen]

I think the reason the instructions tell you to do it that way is two fold:

1. to make sure you actually have the timing tool before removing the vanos
2. measure to see if timing was off before vanos removal

[Cubieman]

I get doing it that way from the perspective of someone hasn't done any real internal engine work, its intimidating.

Beisan is trying to have comprehensive instructions that are laid out in order to reduce mistakes so they can sell more products to DIY people likely.

I forgot about this step, and while not strictly necessary I do remember wanting to follow their directions to the T as I was still pretty green when it came to things like that.

[BL92]

As above

rock the cam back and forth until oil squirts out from under the vanos

chuck a rag under the vanos to save mess

the reason it is jammed cause there is still oil trapped in the vanos piston and it can not move back any further

taking off the caps like the fatboys garage video did will assist in draining the vanos of oil

BS021 kit should have replacement o rings for the end caps

[sapote]

the reason it is jammed cause there is still oil trapped in the vanos piston and it can not move back any further

taking off the caps like the fatboys garage video did will assist in draining the vanos of oil

OP already removed the solenoid pack and the vanos front caps, so pressurized oil by the piston is not the reason for hard to turn the cam. It's the helical cut on the splined shaft that resists the turn.

[Slideways]

OP already removed the solenoid pack and the vanos front caps, so pressurized oil by the piston is not the reason for hard to turn the cam. It's the helical cut on the splined shaft that resists the turn.

He is fighting valve spring pressure, that is all.